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Hatchbacks Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Chevrolet/Geo Metro
1694 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 4:44 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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Replying to: fastford1 (May 27, 2009 10:04 am) I have NEVER seen one of those modules go bad. (which does not mean it can't happen) But one little known thing that commonly prevents a spark is that you cannot run power through a jumper from the battery to the hot side of the coil (regardless of whether or not the ignition switch is on). The coil power MUST all go through the ignition switch; or the ignition system will not produce sparks. Apparently there is some sort of anti theft circuit which disables the spark if you try to hot wire the car. |
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The coil says 12 volts, made by "Denso" company-there are 2 small wires coming out of the top, 1 is brown and 1 is red-those, and the big wire going to the distributor-nothing else coming out of the coil, nothing else attached to the coil. There are no wires coming out of the bottom of the coil and the distributor rotor cannot be turned either way by hand. I pulled the 15 amp fuse to disable fuel and it did not start. I put a new distributor cap and rotor on it and it still won't start, not even a sputter. I was wondering...if I take the coil to a parts store-do they check these things out to see if they are bad Likewise-the ignition module??????? All wiring is tight that you suggested I check.
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Replying to: annielulu (May 27, 2009 8:41 pm) The coil on your car is not listed as the coil that belongs on it; in the source that I usually rely on. But there is some confusion in the coil listings for Metros of that era; so I cannot be sure it is not the right coil. If you had a volt-ohmmeter; it could provide information about the coil which might conclusively determine its suitability. And a volt-ohmmeter would also be essential in determining whether the ignition switch has developed excessive resistance; which, along with the coil, is one of the most common causes of weak sparks. But, for now; I'd like you to test the spark from the coil wire for its color, and to see how far it can jump; as I explained earlier. Since your car apparently has the type of distributor with electronic spark advance; the rotor cannot be turned, so you won't be able to use the test that doesn't require running the starter. But you've apparently been able to test for spark before; so I expect you have a remote starter switch, or an equivalent. If you can only crank the engine from inside the passenger compartment; I'll ask you to either get a remote starter switch; or I can explain how to make a usable jumper wire for cheap; or you can ask someone else to help crank the starter while you're under the hood measuring the spark. I don't know whether spending 20 or 25 bucks on a voltmeter would be something you could afford or not; and I'd like to get a better sense about your limitations in that respect, so we can decide more appropriately on how to proceed from here. But if you at least can somehow test the spark to see how far it will jump; that might be as much information as we need for now. So let me know where you stand on this. |
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Will do as soon as my roomate gets home. Thank you Zaken1 ps Sometime when I try to shut the engine off with the key, the engine will keep on running even with the key out, usually if the battery is somewhat run down. I have to quickly disconnect the battery terminal when that happens. Could this ignition thing have anything to do with it.
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Replying to: annielulu (May 27, 2009 9:46 pm) |
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The car is a convertible. I don't know if any ignition switch work or under dash wiring was ever done. The co that made the coil also made a lot of the other parts. Looks like a Japanese company (subcontractor or whatever). The key problem is only of recent vintage. I really think that it doesn't have anything to do with the current problem. Just that when the battery is low, it seems not to kick off the key when you attempt to shut the engine off. Maybe something to do with not having enough juice to do it or whatever. Anyway, the car ran for over 1 1/2 years without any key problems before all this started. As soon as I can get my roommate to work the key, I will measure the coil spark length, color, etc and report back. Many thanks.
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Replying to: annielulu (May 27, 2009 10:54 pm) Nippondenso is one of the largest automotive electrical suppliers in the world. It is owned by Toyota; and Geo (Suzuki) uses lots of their parts. They make top quality stuff. |
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I'll check the coil spark as soon as I can get my roommate to turn the key. How would the key mess up the starting?? Not making some kind of connection/contact or something like that. Then, is there any way I could jump the wires or something like that at the key switch (like on TV) to see if it is in fact the key (provided the coil spark is ok). I don't know anything about voltmeters and never used or saw one. I probably could learn to use it for this problem if I could be walked through it. I learned to fly small planes and gliders since I moved here 13 years ago, but I am not Mr Technology when it comes to electrical stuff. If most people were like me, we'd probably still be living in caves. |
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Zaken1: OK, The spark was at least 3/4 inch to about 1 inch in length at maximum. It seemed about as big around as the stem on a Q TIP. The color was a golden yellowish mixture. very little blue except at the very tip. It seemed to be a strong spark as it jumped over to a closer piece of metal as I pulled it away from its first contact point. Made a good crackling sound. No extraneous noise from the coil itself. I guess this rules the ignition switch out as a problem? Recap: new timing belt and properly timed, new rotor, cap and plug wires, new plugs. Pulled 15 amp fuse to check possible over fueling-result-negative, all wiring connections tight, battery new, checked compression #1 cylinder at TDC-good compression. Only thing else I can think of is the ignition module, but you have said in a previous post they rarely fail. Engine just turns, doesn't attempt to start or even sputter, etc.
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Still attempting to get 95 1.0L to run right- see former posts... I think I have finally found the culprit, after replacing TB and about everything that attaches to it. As far as I can tell, this is the first time I have EVER seen this: The pole piece teeth have pieces broken off and sticking to the pickup coil, which is scarred and gouged! Under this condition spark would be erratic at best- no wonder starting and idling are crummy. Can't feel any wobble in the shaft, so I'm assuming that some know-it-all adjusted the pickup air gap to zero. Something to look for in a used car from now on....
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