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Hatchbacks Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Chevrolet/Geo Metro
1692 messages, Last post on Oct 24, 2009 at 5:27 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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Replying to: annielulu (May 25, 2009 7:05 pm) |
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Spins fast-still no start-not even a sputter. This car is wearing me out.
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Replying to: annielulu (May 25, 2009 7:45 pm) The second possibility is what I mentioned last night; the timing belt may have slipped exactly enough to put the cam and distributor 180 degrees out of phase. And that is why I asked you to check for compression in # 1 cylinder when the engine begins to turns while the rotor is pointing to 3 o'clock. The fact that the engine spins fast sounds like what usually happens when the belt jumps time. But without checking for compression, there is no other way to determine this. So I ask you again; either find someone who can help you push the car a few feet in second gear; while you hold your thumb over the plug hole, or buy a compression gauge that screws in to the spark plug threads. With that kind of gauge; you can sit in the car and crank the starter for five full seconds with your foot at least partly down on the accelerator; and then walk over to the gauge and read it. Repeat this test on the other two cylinders. If the compression is below 50PSI; the timing belt has probably slipped. If the compression is between 80 and 125 PSI; the valves are probably burned.
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Replying to: zaken1 (May 25, 2009 8:24 pm) |
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| Sounds like a plan. How do you get the switch to come out. I tried, don't want to break it. Is it the big black box next to the FI box? | |
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Had my roomate turn it over. Put my thumb on #1 plug hole and rotor at 3 o'clock. There was a big blast of compression while the rotor went from 3 o'clock to 12 o'clock. So' I don't think compression is the problem. Per my previous post........ which thing is the fuse you want me to pull. There are 3 "fuse" looking things with different colors on top and 2 bigger black boxes right alongside them. The big box on the left says fuel, but I tried to pull it out and it won't come out. It has a lot of wires going to it on the underside.
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OK, I think I found the right fuse to pull. It was not one of the 2 bigger black boxes. I think it was the one that says 15 amps on it. When I pulled it, I could not hear the fuel pump go on before I tried to start it. Anyway, I cleaned the plugs, and pulled the fuse. Let it turn over a few times for about 10 seconds each, or so, but not even a sputter. So, got real good compression out of #1 hole and tried the fuse. No results. This has got me stumped. Sorry to bother you with all these questions but NEED TO GET THIS CAR GOING. Thanks.
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Replying to: annielulu (May 25, 2009 9:07 pm) I just read your last post; which invalidates what I wrote above. The only possibilities I can think of is that the plugs you're using were not sufficiently cleaned; or that the plug wires were not installed in the cap in the right order; or the rotor was not installed in the distributor, or the coil wire was left off the distributor cap, or the primary wires were not connected to the coil when you tried to start. But I expect none of these things were the problem. I'm stumped for now. Sorry!!! |
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Replying to: annielulu (May 25, 2009 9:23 pm) Please do the following test; wrap a heavy, clean rag around the coil wire, and hold the rag so that the end of the coil wire is near a bolt in the valve cover; crank the engine, and see how far you can move the wire away from the bolt before the spark quits. Have a ruler nearby, so you can measure the greatest distance the spark will jump. Please tell me that distance; as accurately as possible. I would also want to know the color of the spark. Is it blue white, orange, maroon, or yellow? Also let me know if you hear any crackling or strange noises from the coil when you make this test. Coils and modules can be expensive; so we need to be careful about condemning these parts. Please also tell me whether there are any add on items connected to the coil (like a tachometer) and whether the coil has an electrical plug attached on the opposite end from where the coil wire attaches. If it doesn't have such a plug; it probably will look like a tin can, with the coil wire and the two primary wires all coming out of the top. Which type is it; and is there a brand or any label on it? While we're at it; please find the ground bolt on the back edge of the intake manifold, near the passenger side. There should be a bunch of wires fastened under that bolt. See if that bolt is loose, and if possible; take it off and clean off any corrosion on the manifold surface, the bolt, or the wire terminals. Then put it back on tightly. There is also a ground wire that runs from the distributor to a bolt in the firewall. That, too should be clean and tight. And the battery ground terminal (the one closest to the front of the car) should have two wires coming from it. One wire should go to a bolt on an unpainted part of the engine. There should also be a smaller wire which goes to a bolt in the fender. Please tell me if all these wires are on your car. Thanks!
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I just returned from WALKING to the store, so I will implement your new suggestions first thing tomorrow. I do appreciate your help. I used to be somewhat of a mechanic some 40 years ago, when you did not need a degree in computer science or brain surgery to fix a car (old flat head engines), etc. Your posts are keeping me going on this. Thank you.
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