Last post on Nov 27, 2013 at 12:52 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
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Geo Metro, Chevrolet Metro, Hatchback
#1525 of 1867 Brake and Direction Lights not working Brakes lock up
Apr 27, 2009 (5:46 am)
Could someone help me with this problem.
Chevy Metro 2000, brake lights and direction lights not working, service engine light on.
replace fuse, bakes lights and directional lights worked for awhile, stopped working again, replaced fuse again, stopped working again,
Brakes froze up while driving would not go forward, replace brakes pads, and rotors,
replaced fuses, brakes and lights worked for about 30 miles, then service engine light came on, brake lights, and directional lights stopped working, brakes started heating up. Stopped car...smelt both front ties, getting over heated...
Called dealer send to tow it in....but would not say what they think it maybe
#1526 of 1867 Re: DIESEL Geo Metro Opinions [zaken1]
Apr 27, 2009 (7:25 pm)
Ahemm, well one use for an old deisel Geo Metro would be for converting it to BIO-FUEL ! Some people like to experiment with these possibilities.
#1527 of 1867 Re: [zaken1]
Apr 29, 2009 (6:07 am)
What exactly is the"front of the motor"? Is it the place where the crank pulley is or the place where the exhaust manifold is?
#1528 of 1867 Re: oil still leaking into dash!!!!!!!!! [zaken1]
Apr 29, 2009 (6:10 am)
According to the infamous Mullet and the owners manual, the correct transmission oil is Synchro mesh.
#1529 of 1867 Re: [wwelder]
Apr 29, 2009 (9:23 am)
When I originally wrote that the # 1 cylinder was the one all the way to the left, when viewed from in front of the motor, I meant viewed while standing in front of the car, and looking over the radiator at the motor. That means the # 1 cylinder is the one closest to the crank pulley.
The term "synchro mesh," when applied to gear oil, refers to an oil intended for manual transmissions; rather than for automatic transmissions or differentials. But there are many types of gear oils which meet that classification, and yet are not suitable for the Metro transaxle. The Metro requires an unusually low viscosity gear oil (which means it should be a multigrade, which has two numbers; such as 75W-90; and the first number should either be 70 or 75). Metro gear oil should also be labeled "GL-5." That means it contains additives which are made for extreme pressure protection. Oils which are not suitable for the Metro would be any oil with a single number, or those with a first number of 80 or higher, or those with a GL-4 rating, without also saying GL-5.
The Metro transaxle is extremely demanding on gear oil. I have found that many popular gear oils will lead to increased gear noise (and probably increased wear) if used in this application. But the best oil I have found for the Metro transaxle is Golden Spectro SPL full synthetic gear oil, SAE 75W-90. This is an American company, whose oil is usually sold at motorcycle shops; as it is used in the final drive case of shaft drive motorcycles.
#1530 of 1867 Re: [zaken1]
Apr 30, 2009 (6:27 am)
Oh now I understand except that upon pouring both oils, the syncromesh and the synthetic 75-90w there is a great difference in viscosity at room temperature.hmm
#1531 of 1867 Re: [wwelder]
Apr 30, 2009 (8:00 am)
Synthetic oils will always have a thinner viscosity than petroleum oils. They are deliberately made that way, because synthetics are so much tougher than petroleum that they don't need to be made heavy in order to resist wear and pressure.
There are two great advantages to using a thinner bodied oil; one is that it penetrates better into tight spaces, which gives better lubrication, and reduces gear noise. The other is that it creates less drag from friction; which enables better performance and fuel economy.
Petroleum oil engineers would love to make their oil in thinner grades, in order to gain those advantages; but it just wouldn't stand up under the operating conditions.
#1532 of 1867 1993 3 cylinder Metro
May 19, 2009 (5:12 pm)
I put on a new timing belt, re-timed it properly and it was running ok for a couple of days. Now, the only way I can start it is to not touch the gas at all when first starting it. It will start up fine and runs strong, then the second I give it a little gas to get going, it will stall and not restart. The next day I will try to start it and it will start again as described, but then, try to give it some gas to take off and it will stall again and not restart. It seems that it wants to run ok until you want to give it some gas. Any help appreciated.
#1533 of 1867 Re: 1993 3 cylinder Metro [annielulu]
May 19, 2009 (6:45 pm)
That sounds like an ignition problem to me; probably either spark plugs that are worn out, gapped too wide, or borderline fouled; or bad plug wires; or a defective distributor cap or defective rotor. Try comparing the maximum distance you can get the spark to jump from the coil wire to a grounded point; against the same test using each of the plug wires. If the spark from a plug wire will not jump anywhere near the distance it does from the coil wire; either the plug wires or the distributor cap or rotor are defective. If these spark tests come out OK; I would install a new set of plugs; preferably Bosch Platinum "+2" # 4306, or Bosch Platinum "+4" # 4478, or Bosch Platinum IR Fusion # 4506. The gap on these particular plugs is not adjustable.
#1534 of 1867 Re: 1993 3 cylinder Metro [zaken1]
May 19, 2009 (6:57 pm)
Thank you Zaken1. Will hit the parts store tomorrow and buy all the items new anyway, and give you an update.