Last post on Nov 27, 2013 at 12:52 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
What is this discussion about?
Geo Metro, Chevrolet Metro, Hatchback
#1391 of 1867 Re: 1991 Geo Metro LSI 1.0 liter or 1.3 liter motor [purringbird]
Sep 08, 2008 (3:56 pm)
The Geo Metro 1.0 and 1.3 liter motors each take very different distributor caps. The 1.0 liter motor has 3 cylinders, and takes a distributor cap that has 3 spark plug wire sockets on it (for the wires which go to the 3 spark plugs on the 1.0 engine). I believe that is the cap which everybody has been showing you; because the 1.3 liter 4 cylinder motor did not come out in the Metro until 1992.
The 1.3 liter motor has 4 cylinders, and its distributor cap has 4 spark plug wire sockets. Because of the additional wire socket, this cap probably is slightly larger in diameter than the cap for the 3 cylinder motor.
I believe that, if you go to a parts store and ask for a cap to fit a 1992 Metro, with the 1.3 liter 4 cylinder motor; they will give you a cap that fits your car.
It may well be that the manufacturing label on your door jamb states that the car was manufactured in 1991. Your registration certificate may also say 1991. However, the year of manufacture is not always the same as the vehicle's model year. The 1992 model year cars probably began to be produced in September 1991 (or possibly even a month or two before September). Manufacturers do that every year, so that the new models will arrive at the dealerships before the new year begins.
There originally was a white label with tune up and emission information on it, on the underside of the car's hood. On this label is listed the vehicle model year, for which this car was certified. And that is the year model which you need to use when buying parts; regardless of the year in which the car was manufactured. In addition, if your car has 4 spark plugs, your car has the 1.3 liter engine. If that is the case, you do NOT have a 1.0 liter engine. And if you say "1.0 or 1.3 liter engine"; it will cause much needless confusion. It is necessary to specifically know which engine size your car has, in order to ask for the right parts; since many parts are not interchangeable between those 2 engines.
I hope this helps!!!
Sep 10, 2008 (10:25 am)
hi. just bought a 96 metro 2dr for my daughter and have a few questions.
1) it has a 1.3 ltr engine and i'll be darned if i can find the fuel rail. it's supposed to have efi, but i can only find a carb. this can't be right, can it?
2) the car is from florida and the top of the dash is very faded. how to fix?
#1393 of 1867 Re: new owner [jaimesdad]
by PFFlyer@Edmunds HOST
Sep 10, 2008 (12:32 pm)
Hopefully a Metro owner will chime in here, but until then another place you might want to post your questions would be in the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion on the Maintenance and Repair board.
Sometimes it can be hard to find fellow owners of an older vehicle, but the savvy folks that hang out on M&R are well versed in automotive knowledge and always willing to help!
#1394 of 1867 Auto Tranny blues
Sep 12, 2008 (6:27 am)
I have a 1992 Geo Metro with a 1.0L, 3 cyl engine. Engine runs great, but the auto transmission has attitude problems comparative to that of a human teenager. That being said, here's my problem.....Sometimes my transmission will go into gear and shift correctly when driving, and sometimes it won't. When it won't, it's as if it's stuck in 3rd gear. When this happens I have to drop it into L and work my way up to D shifting it manually. A "mechanic" has told me that mechanically, my tranny looks great and that the problem is the auto transmission control module. I'm good with that, but where is it, and what does it look like? The mechanic seem to think that it's on the right side of the steering column???? but not sure. Any ideas? If you've had a like problem how did you fix it?
#1395 of 1867 Re: XFi [vanillalatte]
Sep 15, 2008 (6:20 pm)
How did you obtain the ring gear and pinion for your manual transmission? From a used trans or was it new. Part Number?
Sep 16, 2008 (1:09 am)
I got it second hand. It's from a group of guys who soup up their cars. They install lower geared 3 cyl. ring and pinion. Perfect condition. They will swap a 4 cyl for a three for free. The ring and pinion that is.
#1397 of 1867 Re: 1991 Geo Metro LSI 1.0 liter or 1.3 liter motor [purringbird]
Sep 19, 2008 (1:02 am)
the first thing you need to do is determin whether it is a 3 cyl or 4 cyl, since the 91 geo metro only came with a 3 cyl, if it is a 4 cyl than someone has replaced the drivetrain with a suzuki swift. so if you have a 4 cyl ask for a distributor cap for a suzuki swift (they only come with 4 cyl.) hope this helps
#1398 of 1867 1998 Metro lack of power AGAIN!
Sep 22, 2008 (12:04 pm)
I have been reading this forum for the last two hours (I found it very enjoyable) and I decided to ask a question I can't find the answer to.
I have a '98 Chevy Metro 3-cylinder hatchback with 80,000 miles. 5-speed. This car is NOT equipped with air conditioning.
Last May, my car would not accelerate over 45mph. If I tried to go faster than that, I smelled a burning smell, exactly like a burning rubber smell. I opened the hood and could smell it but I couldn't exactly narrow it down. Yeah, I could smell it by the alternator, but in other areas too.
A friend and I removed the alternator and it spun freely. Took it to AutoZone and it checked out OK. Pulleys are fine. During the same trip, I removed the battery and AutoZone put it on their tester. The battery was draining fast. I figured the alternator was working extra hard to keep the battery charged. I replaced the battery with a DieHard and the acceleration problem vanished.
Fast forward a little over two months later and the problem is back. On three ocassions in early August the car would emit that same burning smell and I could not drive past 40 or 45mph. After a couple weeks, the smell doesn't come back, and the power seemed OK for a few days (although I was only doing city driving). I had to make a 40-mile highway trip. This time, the car would not move past 55mph or the burning smell returned. So, I had to drive at 55mph. Since then, I was unable to get it narrowed down and I began college (which is 100 miles one way from home), driving the entire way at 55 with no problems. I tried to push it further, but I had to floor the accelerator just to barely get it to 60. But, no burning smell on that ocassion.
I have made two round-trips to home and back in the last three weeks, going 55mph, and the burning smell has not returned. But, it still doesn't want to go any faster.
Here in the college town, the car is sluggish going up hills (I often have to keep it in third gear just to have more power; I never had to do that before) and the problems persist. Acceleration is a hair slower, but the real problems come when trying to go faster than 40 or 45. The odor has not returned as of late.
So, the problem was solved for a little over two months when I replaced the battery. Then it comes back. It's not the clutch. It's NOT a sticky brake caliper in the front or sticking rear brakes. I had the automotive instructor at my old school (community college) go for a ride with me and I asked him if he thought it could be a plugged converter. He said he highly doubts it is the converter. I don't think it is either.
The air filter is only 1,000 miles old. The intake hose is not plugged. I changed the spark plugs to no avail. I checked the PCV valve just for the hell of it and it's fine. I had a battery shop test the battery while the car was idling and was told there is no problem, and the alternator is charging the battery.
From the day this started, the "CHARGE" light has never illuminated, nor has a "CHECK ENGINE" light.
For a 10-year-old car with 80K, what else could it be? I thought about the spark plug wires, but the car is not missing. The distributor is original. The ignition coil is original. I thought about the EGR valve, but then my mind goes back to thinking it's electrical related because of the battery replacement. The timing belt looks excellent as has not been touched. At 80K, I do not believe that to be the problem
I have to make a trip back home again in a month and I want to get this fixed permanently once and for all. I'm worried because I'm a poor college student. This car has not been neglected (I change the oil every 2,000 with 5W-30, flush the cooling system once a year). My friend and I who work on it are miffed.
Can any of you friendly Metro lovers help me?
#1399 of 1867 Lack of power again....
Sep 22, 2008 (12:18 pm)
Burnt smell: catalyst blocked or
clutch slipping, if you had a tach you would immediately know for sure....,
lack of compression....
Blocked fuel filter,
blocked air filter,
blocked muffler........you got me stomped. When you find our please let us know.
#1400 of 1867 Re: 1998 Metro lack of power AGAIN! [brokestudent2]
Sep 22, 2008 (6:50 pm)
When I first bought and began working on my 3 cylinder Metro, I soon discovered that this engine requires far more tension on the alternator belt than any other car I have ever worked on (and I''m a professional mechanic). It apparently is the result of the unusually high efficiency of this alternator design; which enables it to produce power at a lower engine speed than most alternators, combined with the short distance between pulleys on this engine. Because the belt tension has to be so unusually high, I found that many inexpensive (and some major) brands of fan belts will stretch under this type of service, and thus cannot maintain the tension at which they were originally adjusted. The one brand of fan belt that has proven to be durable is Goodyear. And that is now the only brand of fan belt I will use on a 3 cylinder Metro engine.
You may need to use a long bar or block of wood to pull as a lever against the alternator; in order to properly tension the belt. Be careful to not allow any metal object to touch the live alternator terminal where the power cable attaches. Tighten the belt to the point where it feels like a tightly strung rope, which will not move down when you try to press down on the midpoint of its longest unsupported span. It should feel much tighter than any other fan belt you have adjusted.
The faster you drive, the more resistance the alternator will produce against being turned by the belt. I believe the burning smell you noticed was created when the belt began slipping on the alternator pulley.
It is normal for any new fan belt (including a Goodyear) to stretch some during the first few miles it is used. So you will need to recheck and adjust the belt tension once or twice during the first week. After that; it should remain stable.
The one other factor that could hamper your car's performance (and possibly cause burning smells) is ignition timing that has been set too far retarded. Sometimes during an emission inspection; if the car's emissions are too high, the mechanic may retard the timing in order to make it pass. Retarding timing beyond factory specifications is a cheap way to make a car pass smog; but it has major consequences of causing excessive heat, reducing power, and potentially damaging the engine; particularly at high speeds.This can also happen if the mechanic does not follow the proper procedure that is required in order to check the timing on this engine. Sometimes it is necessary to first disconnect an electrical connector at the distributor, before checking the timing. The procedure should be listed on the emission information label attached to the underside of the hood.
I hope this helps!!!