Last post on Nov 27, 2013 at 12:52 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
What is this discussion about?
Geo Metro, Chevrolet Metro, Hatchback
#1200 of 1867 Addendum to not starting
Nov 11, 2007 (9:17 pm)
I want to thank zaken1 for the very timely and informotive tips.I really enjoy this forum due to the fact I have two metros. A 1990 automatic 4dr/hchbk and a1993 2dr/hchbk. I drive 110 miles to and from work so these little jewels are worth their weight in gold to me. Unfortunately my 1990 broke down right across the freeway where 3 days earlier I was rearended by an s10 pickup.Fortunately no one was hurt, but I got to feel the sensation a jet pilot goes through when engangeing his aft
erburners,,,that s10 gave me a shove.
The 93 5-speed has a rebuilt title and is considered total loss by the insurance co. It gets consistantly 48mpg.Three years ago I put in a japenese crate moter for which I paid 300 dollars.The motor had sat quit a while in a wherehouse because the lifters clacked away for a long time,,but eventually got quite and smoothed out,, que bella.
In regard to the 90 4dr auto not starting,,the car is in the parking lot where Im employed.I work a nightshift so I can work on it a little before work begins.Because of the lighting or old age I didnt notice the timing belt wearing through the plastic cover,,,in essence the crankshaft pulleybolt was working its way out! Hopefully this week I can put it back together and get it running.I will let you all know.
This 90 was my pet project,,I liked this car,, it is roomy and has a/c. It is a 3 cyl. and because its an automatic gets approx. 10 mpg.less than a 5 speed.One month earlier I replaced the piston rings,the rebuilt head I purchased from e-bay, I did lap and put in brand new valves for less than $50,New oil pump,water pump. All items purchased from Bruce Roller with Partsdinosaur from Arizona,,good people.
Three weeks ago I took the 90 automatic metro to break in the rings and bearings on a worthwhile trip consisting of around 800 miles. I took my "GO BAG" for overnight accommidations.It was a great trip,,but the seats need some work. My back was sore the next day.It was a momentous trip which I will always remember.
The American countryside is beautifull and I drove it in my Geo,,,Life is good!!!
#1201 of 1867 Re: Addendum to not starting [9thirty3]
Nov 11, 2007 (10:51 pm)
It is fulfilling to me when someone becomes empowered by what I write!! Thanks for the kind words.
I have a 1990 2 door hatchback, with a 5 speed. I bought it in 1992, with 58,000 one owner miles on it. The previous owner never put anything but Castrol in it. He broke it in on GTX, and then began using their 5W-50 Syntec at about 10,000 miles. He also installed a huge Amsoil bypass oil filter. Since I'm a fanatic about using only one brand of oil, I've stayed with the Syntec, and have kept on using the super fine Amsoil filter. I also add 3 ounces of Tufoil when I change oil (every 7,500 miles, due to the type of oil and the superior filtration). My Metro now has 270,000 miles on it, and never has even had the head off. It now runs better than it did when I bought it, still uses almost no oil, and recently broke it's own gas mileage record (by getting over 57mpg on a 300 mile freeway run). The only work it has ever needed was a timing cover oil seal, a wheel bearing, an alternator, and a water pump. The water pump ran almost 270,000 miles, before the seal finally started leaking about 2 months ago. The car still has the original clutch, original CV joints, and the original struts, But the CV joints will have to be changed soon.
I think the Metro is an absolutely fantastic car. People who've driven it are amazed at how much power it has (yes, I've done some fiddling with the tuning). So I intend to keep this car for the rest of my driving life. And I've learned to live with the tire howl, which always seems to reappear after a set of tires gets a few miles on them. But since It gets better mileage than my friend's brand new Prius, I really can't complain.
Suzuki outdid themselves when they built this car. Maybe that's why they decided to stop making them. But I did modify their design in one important way: I replaced the driver's seat with one from a Camry.
I hope you keep yours going forever!
Nov 12, 2007 (3:11 am)
Hi there all....
If you can get your hands on seats from a GT or GTi, you will be amazed by the difference!
I just sold my 91 GT seats to a chap with a 98, bolted right in!
They will also fit in the convertible, but you must retain your runners. I think that the vert has the worst seats of all. I also have GT seats in the vert, the grayish-silver ones, they are more of a match to the door panels.
The Mark 3 and 4 seats have springs running lengthwise under the seats, whereas the GT seats have a full metal shell. A world of difference.
Nov 12, 2007 (7:36 am)
hey i have a metro and i love the gas milage but when i press the gas and it has some hesitation.
it jumps when shifting in the lower gears
and it can hardly get up to 50
what the heck is goin on?
something i can do?
i want the push that a geo should have
i think its a 91' metro
#1204 of 1867 Re: metro no go [mobseener]
Nov 12, 2007 (10:02 am)
It is difficult to sort out this kind of situation without actually being able to test and drive it. I'm not clear about what you mean by "it jumps when shifting in the lower gears and it can hardly get up to 50." That sounds like the clutch might be slipping. If the engine sometimes speeds up while the car doesn't go any faster, that would be caused by a slipping clutch. The clutch pedal free play on those cars is adjustable. If you start to press on the clutch pedal; it should move freely, with little or no resistance over the first 1" or 1 1/2" of pedal travel, but when you press it further, it should then feel like you're compressing a spring. If the pedal feels tight from the beginning, with no free play, then it desperately needs to be adjusted. The adjustment is done by loosening the large nut that is located at the end of the clutch cable, where the cable connects to the arm coming from the transmission housing. Keep turning the nut until you get 1" to 1 1/2" of free play at the top of the pedal stroke. After you make this adjustment, if the clutch still slips, then it is too late: The clutch has worn out, and will have to be replaced.
All clutches used to be adjustable, but many drivers didn't watch the free play. The free play distance becomes smaller as the clutch wears. If the free play is allowed to go away entirely, then the clutch will burn out. In recent years, manufacturers have begun making self adjusting clutches, so that owners wouldn't have to check the free play. But the downside is that people have become used to cars having self adjusting clutches; if they then buy a car with a clutch that's not self adjusting, and the free play goes away, it destroys the clutch. Knowing whether the car you drive needs to have the free play checked, and always watching the clutch free play are just a few of the many responsibilities we have to take on, in order to survive in today's complex and wonderful world.
#1205 of 1867 95 Geo metro tranny removal
Nov 20, 2007 (6:53 pm)
Can a 3 speed automatic be removed without removing the 1.3L engine?
#1207 of 1867 Re: metro no go [mobseener]
Nov 21, 2007 (4:52 pm)
I think that I may be able to help a little with your problem. My 91 geo metro convertible just had a similar problem, but what it did was that it wouldn't rev up higher than 4000-4500 RPM and it didn't go much faster than 50-55 mph, and that was with me stomping on the gas pedal. My problem was the Catalytic Converter insides worked themselves loose and all that crap was pushed down to my muffler and clogged up my whole exhaust system, thus making my engine lose it's performance and it was extremely sluggish. I couldn't get my RPM's over the previously stated RPM range. If you can't rev over that limit, then there's a good chance that you're Catalytic converter crapped the bed and took your muffler with it clogging your exhaust exit.
If you do see the RPM problem with your car, a good way to double check that is by taking out your O2 sensor, or just taking off your exhaust manifold or pipe that connects to your Manifold (it's easier to take off the manifold because the 2 bolts that hold the pipe onto the manifold rust and break easily when removing. Sounds stupid because you'll be taking about 6 or 7 fasteners out to drop the exhaust manifold). After you've done that you've officially bypassed the plugged up exhaust; Start up your car and rev it up. It'll be loud like a family of chipmunks screaming, but you should see that you'll be able to hit 6500 RPM without any problems. Let me know if this helps. If you don't have the RPM problem, there's a chance that it's something else, but after what I've seen with these cheap catalytic converters, it wouldn't surprise me to see someone else with the same problem.
You might also consider checking your sparkplugs to see if they're fouled out due to the exhaust obstruction. Also, check your Air filter and the assembly that provides the air to the intake. There may be an obstruction there keeping your little car from performing like the go cart it should be. Check your timing, and all of your distributor parts for corrosion and poor electrical connections there. Could be a loose wire somewhere. Also, if you haven't changed your fuel filter for some time, it wouldn't hurt. That may be clogged or dirty if you haven't changed it in the last year causing fuel restrictions to your injector. Bad gas will really make your chipmunk in the wheel engine constipated and irritable. A dirty injector will give you a little grief too. Wouldn't hurt to have your injector cleaned/ serviced. Check your fuel pressure, maybe a bad fuel pump is not giving your engine the much needed sipping sustainance. All of these things could be cheap fixes to your problem. If none of these fixes work, then you may have internal problems in your engine, maybe worn lobes on your camshaft, bad valves, or a dead cylinder. Do a compression check just to be sure before you fix things that aren't broken.
Best of luck to you from a fellow geo metro owner. Let me know how you do.
#1208 of 1867 Engine shuts off
Nov 27, 2007 (9:38 am)
My Metro will shut off when I let off the gas after cresting a hill. If I let it coast for a few seconds then push the gas it will take off again most times. The mechanic said I had good spark and fuel pressure. and was getting a pulse to the injector but no fuel into the throttle body. What could it be?
#1209 of 1867 Re: Engine shuts off [stepz]
Nov 27, 2007 (10:39 am)
That sounds like you have a problem with the throttle position sensor. This sensor is mounted at the end of the throttle shaft, on the passenger side of the throttle body. It is held in place by 2 mounting screws, and has an electrical plug attached to it. The sensor is designed to shut the fuel off when the throttle is closed during deceleration, and then turn the fuel flow back on when you step on the gas. In earlier models, it is mounted on adjustment slots. That adjustment is extremely critical. If the sensor has been moved to the wrong position (too far counterclockwise), it will not turn the fuel back on soon enough when you step on the gas. If you have a later model sensor that does not have an adjustable mounting position, then it may have developed an internal electrical problem. Bad connections at the plug, or damage to the wiring harness could also cause the same symptoms.
This problem could also be caused if an ignorant person had tried to reduce the idle speed by loosening the throttle stop screw. The throttle stop screw is factory set. That's why they put a lock nut on it. It should not be used as an idle speed adjustment. The engine computer automatically adjusts the idle speed. Yes, I know that the engine sometimes takes a while to slow back down to an idle; but that is deliberately done to keep the emission levels down. If a knowledgeable person reduces the throttle stop screw position, they also reset the throttle position sensor to a more clockwise position, to match the new stop screw setting.