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Hatchbacks Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Chevrolet/Geo Metro
1694 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 4:44 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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Hey Dangerdude! I found this information for you. It was written buy a guy called Dave on Teamswift. Your belt must be insanely tight to avoid squealing but there's a problem with this... the tighter you crank that belt up, the more wear and tear you'll be putting on your waterpump and alternator bearings. If you're not careful, you could crack the waterpump housing from the compression stress you're putting on the tensioning bracket where it attaches to the waterpump. If you're tightening the belt a LOT, then there's something else wrong. You shouldn't need to use anything more than a 2' crow/pry bar and the weight of your arm to tighten the belt. Perhaps a bit more of a tug if that doesn't solve the problem. No need to be hanging off of (or even using) a 2x4" to get the belt to the proper tension. It's an easy one-person job. If you find yourself straining to keep the tension while tightening the bolt on the tensioning bracket, you've got the belt WAAAY too tight. That's a good way to set a belt up to snap when you're too far away from a replacement one. Also, check the pivot bolts and nuts under the alternator. If they're loose, you won't be able to get the right tension. When they're properly tightened (after you tension the belt), the stress of the stretched belt will be spread more evenly around the mounting points of the alternator, reducing the chance of breaking mounts off. They should be tight enough that you can't move the alternator with your hand, and moving it with that crow/pry bar is almost impossible. Have fun, Vanilla Latte. |
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Replying to: dangerdude (Nov 21, 2006 8:01 am) And yes the guy is right, not too tight you'll be replacing the idler, or pump / alternator. When you have the belt off -check to see if the pulley(s) are glazed over, or have oil on them- never get oil, silicone near the pulley ! Use a qualty cleaner to remove the glaze if any... Good Luck !
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Replying to: p10leadman (Nov 21, 2006 2:53 pm) |
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Replying to: deborahf (Nov 20, 2006 4:03 pm) |
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How do I clean off battery cables? Can I do it myself without buying special sprays? Also, does the cable with the little plastic cover over it supposed to have a split (?)in it? It is not a solid piece like the other side. Thanks. |
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I should have married a mechanic.
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Replying to: deborahf (Nov 24, 2006 2:24 pm) the red cap is POSITIVE + and the bare or black clamp is NEGATIVE - Unbolt the positive and twist the clamp loose with a pair of pliers- then do the same to the negative clamp -, Then you have a choice- 1) at an automotive store or even walmart, buy a small chrome cylinder that is called "A battery post cleaner"- this hand-dandy device has wire brushes inside it, and can clean the battery post, AND, when the device is taken apart, it has another brush than can clean the opposite end the battery clamps-This device is used by a twisting motion- If you want you can clean the bluish powder off with a small hand wire brush and then shoe-shine the battery post with a piece of sand paper, and do the same to the battery cable clamp. A word of caution- do not get the blue-white battery post powder on your clothes or near your eyes- it is caustic. It canslowly destroy you clothes like battery acid. Another way is to finalize the cleaning by hand, then washing with a wet rag, the wash with baking soda and water- then washing and drying- re-assemble and presto ! all done. IT is NOT difficult, and should take less than 30 minutes from start to finish. Good luck ! 
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1994 Geo Metro Automatic Transmission Our Geo Metro has recently begun to occasionally lurch forward when accelerating from a dead stop. Sometimes this happens when it has been parked for a while or overnight, but it also happens at traffic lights, stop signs, etc., anywhere it has come to a full stop. It lurches once, then moves forward as it should. There is no problem with changing gears or acceleration after the first "jump." Also, this lurching is the only symptom of a possible transmission problem -- there is no noise, gear change difficulty or hesitation -- nothing. Our Geo has a little over 83k miles on it, and it has been regularly serviced, including a transmission fluid check. However, there are two chronic conditions worth a mention, but I don't know if they are related to the current lurching problem: Our Geo has always had very little acceleration power on "take-off," but once it's going, it runs great. This lack of power issue has been repeatedly addressed over the years, but our mechanic has yet to pinpoint the cause -- we've learned to live with it, and we don't pull out into traffic until it's clear a looooong way down the road. Also, wet weather seems to cause our Geo to sputter and complain -- hesitation and very little acceleration power. However, once the engine has run for a while or after the sun comes out, this disappears. This is another issue that's never been resolved, and it has been a bit of a pain since we live in Florida where it's wet most of the summer. As to the lurching, we had our mechanic drive the Geo, and since he's not a transmission expert, he hesitated to make any diagnosis. He just advised us to have the transmission looked over. We know nothing about transmissions, and we've heard all the horror stories about bad mechanics cheating people like us. So, understandably, we're nervous about taking the Geo in for a diagnostic on the transmission. If anyone can suggest what we need to be aware of or if anyone has another idea what the problem might be, please post. This is our only car, and it has to last a while longer. Thanks...
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You maybe correct, the tranny is of suspect. The only other thing I can think of is bad CV joints. You don;t mention how many miles on the car- for what it's worth, my 1995, with 116,000 miles on it has the lurch problem you describe, but it just started it recently. But it has a great pick up and go- no lack of power. Now my 1997 Geo has the lack of power issue, but not the lurching (yet) both of mine are automatic transmissions.(I assume yours is too) Well, the only thing I can suggest is a good tranny shop- like AAMCO . good luck- 
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Replying to: annablume (Nov 30, 2006 3:38 am) Second - please check the connection between the accelerator cable to the trouthle body. If you have very little clearence between the set srew and the "cam" plate, which is attached to the acceleratore cable - you will need to lubricate the shaft in the "carburator" ( trouthle body). Check also the spring attached to the camplate is not damaged.  Let me know.
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