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Hatchbacks Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Chevrolet/Geo Metro
1692 messages, Last post on Oct 24, 2009 at 5:27 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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Replying to: p10leadman (Nov 20, 2006 2:54 pm) My 94 Geo is a 3cyl, 2dr, standard, hatchback. No AC. Nothing fancy about it. Just your basic car. I have crawled under the rear of the car and there is (gas) slowly dripping out. I have a little puddle on the floor of my carport. Live in Rochester, NY. Thanks. I am new to this site.
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Replying to: deborahf (Nov 20, 2006 4:03 pm) I live in TX, so I guess it depends on why your gas tank is leaking. Rust is not a problem here, but backing over a rock was. I was able to have the hole in my gas tank repaired by a local shop that specializes in repairing gas tanks (and the repair was much cheaper than finding a gas tank for my '92 Metro convertible). If you have lots of rust on your tank, though, it wouldn't make sense to try to have it fixed - simply replace it with a rust-free one from a junk yard, as p1leadman suggested. Best, Stan |
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Dear fellow Metro drivers and maintainers, Here is's one for ya.. My Metro three banger is the sweetest fun car ever. I lavish love on it for recreation and therapy. My Metro (AKA Pipsqueak) and I are best friends .. however .. There is one thing that annoys me. On startup in the mornings, the one darn belt it has squeals like crazy. I've replaced the belt, tightened the belt, over tightened the belt, loostened the belt, sprayed the belt with belt stuff, it seems to come back every time. (??) I can stop it by turning of & re-starting the engine a few times until it starts quietly. Anybody else have this??? Thanks DangerDude
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Hey Dangerdude! I found this information for you. It was written buy a guy called Dave on Teamswift. Your belt must be insanely tight to avoid squealing but there's a problem with this... the tighter you crank that belt up, the more wear and tear you'll be putting on your waterpump and alternator bearings. If you're not careful, you could crack the waterpump housing from the compression stress you're putting on the tensioning bracket where it attaches to the waterpump. If you're tightening the belt a LOT, then there's something else wrong. You shouldn't need to use anything more than a 2' crow/pry bar and the weight of your arm to tighten the belt. Perhaps a bit more of a tug if that doesn't solve the problem. No need to be hanging off of (or even using) a 2x4" to get the belt to the proper tension. It's an easy one-person job. If you find yourself straining to keep the tension while tightening the bolt on the tensioning bracket, you've got the belt WAAAY too tight. That's a good way to set a belt up to snap when you're too far away from a replacement one. Also, check the pivot bolts and nuts under the alternator. If they're loose, you won't be able to get the right tension. When they're properly tightened (after you tension the belt), the stress of the stretched belt will be spread more evenly around the mounting points of the alternator, reducing the chance of breaking mounts off. They should be tight enough that you can't move the alternator with your hand, and moving it with that crow/pry bar is almost impossible. Have fun, Vanilla Latte. |
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Replying to: dangerdude (Nov 21, 2006 8:01 am) And yes the guy is right, not too tight you'll be replacing the idler, or pump / alternator. When you have the belt off -check to see if the pulley(s) are glazed over, or have oil on them- never get oil, silicone near the pulley ! Use a qualty cleaner to remove the glaze if any... Good Luck !
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Replying to: p10leadman (Nov 21, 2006 2:53 pm) |
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Replying to: deborahf (Nov 20, 2006 4:03 pm) |
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How do I clean off battery cables? Can I do it myself without buying special sprays? Also, does the cable with the little plastic cover over it supposed to have a split (?)in it? It is not a solid piece like the other side. Thanks. |
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I should have married a mechanic.
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Replying to: deborahf (Nov 24, 2006 2:24 pm) the red cap is POSITIVE + and the bare or black clamp is NEGATIVE - Unbolt the positive and twist the clamp loose with a pair of pliers- then do the same to the negative clamp -, Then you have a choice- 1) at an automotive store or even walmart, buy a small chrome cylinder that is called "A battery post cleaner"- this hand-dandy device has wire brushes inside it, and can clean the battery post, AND, when the device is taken apart, it has another brush than can clean the opposite end the battery clamps-This device is used by a twisting motion- If you want you can clean the bluish powder off with a small hand wire brush and then shoe-shine the battery post with a piece of sand paper, and do the same to the battery cable clamp. A word of caution- do not get the blue-white battery post powder on your clothes or near your eyes- it is caustic. It canslowly destroy you clothes like battery acid. Another way is to finalize the cleaning by hand, then washing with a wet rag, the wash with baking soda and water- then washing and drying- re-assemble and presto ! all done. IT is NOT difficult, and should take less than 30 minutes from start to finish. Good luck ! 
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