Last post on Aug 22, 2012 at 10:55 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
What is this discussion about?
Geo Metro, Chevrolet Metro, Hatchback
#1022 of 1864 Re: 94 Geo Metro [deborahf]
Nov 20, 2006 (3:54 pm)
not knowing what part of the country you are in, makes a difference. Anyway these cars can be fairly durable. It seems that whne they do fall apart it's all at once...or maybe that's just my viewpoint. I have a 1995, a 1997,both 2 dr metro's...the 3rd is a 1996 Suzuki Swift (a Geo clone). I have one rolled over 1996 Geo Metro for parts, and that has saved me a ton of money !
I am now trying to figure out how to replace a leaking heater core. Near as I can tell, it must be the first thing installed on the dash ! So, I flushed the system, added radiator sealer and new anti-freeze...maybe I can get away with that temporary fix another year.
I think your problems are much less- and the fixes alot cheaper. If in fact the gas tank is leaking, a junkyard visit maybe in order... anew one will be around $99.oo + labor to install it. I never repair gas tanks.
Is your car 3cyl, or 4 cyl, automatic, stnadard, does it have ac? 2 dr, 4 door?
#1023 of 1864 1997 Geo- leaking Heater core
Nov 20, 2006 (4:00 pm)
Ok, the 2 dr Geo Metro (97) has a leak- verified with gooo on the inside of the windshield and a disappear act of anti freeze in the radiator! I checked my repair manual(haynes) and dear gawd! You all but remove the roof- the dash comes totally out and all cables, radio, ect- then if you do get the plastic box out, you have to pry it apart- thats the easy part I guess. A practice run on myparts car proved it to be a monster job. So far I flushed the system, and added radiator sealer and new anti freeze- hope to get away with that- car has 116,000 miles on it- hardly broken in.
OK THAT ALL SAID: anyone got a tip of how to replace it easier? Other than a dealer?
#1024 of 1864 Re: 94 Geo Metro [p10leadman]
Nov 20, 2006 (5:03 pm)
My 94 Geo is a 3cyl, 2dr, standard, hatchback. No AC. Nothing fancy about it. Just your basic car. I have crawled under the rear of the car and there is (gas) slowly dripping out. I have a little puddle on the floor of my carport. Live in Rochester, NY.
Thanks. I am new to this site.
#1025 of 1864 Re: 94 Geo Metro [deborahf]
Nov 20, 2006 (10:56 pm)
Hi Deborahf -
I live in TX, so I guess it depends on why your gas tank is leaking. Rust is not a problem here, but backing over a rock was. I was able to have the hole in my gas tank repaired by a local shop that specializes in repairing gas tanks (and the repair was much cheaper than finding a gas tank for my '92 Metro convertible).
If you have lots of rust on your tank, though, it wouldn't make sense to try to have it fixed - simply replace it with a rust-free one from a junk yard, as p1leadman suggested.
#1026 of 1864 Squealing belts anyone????
Nov 21, 2006 (9:01 am)
Dear fellow Metro drivers and maintainers, Here is's one for ya.. My Metro three banger is the sweetest fun car ever. I lavish love on it for recreation and therapy. My Metro (AKA Pipsqueak) and I are best friends .. however ..
There is one thing that annoys me. On startup in the mornings, the one darn belt it has squeals like crazy. I've replaced the belt, tightened the belt, over tightened the belt, loostened the belt, sprayed the belt with belt stuff, it seems to come back every time. (??) I can stop it by turning of & re-starting the engine a few times until it starts quietly. Anybody else have this??? Thanks DangerDude
#1027 of 1864 No thank you! I don't want one either.
Nov 21, 2006 (10:14 am)
Hey Dangerdude! I found this information for you. It was written buy a guy called Dave on Teamswift. Your belt must be insanely tight to avoid squealing but
there's a problem with this... the tighter you crank that belt up, the more wear and tear you'll be putting on your waterpump and alternator bearings. If you're not careful, you could crack the waterpump housing from the compression stress you're putting on the tensioning bracket where it attaches to the waterpump.
If you're tightening the belt a LOT, then there's something else wrong. You shouldn't need to use anything more than a 2' crow/pry bar and the weight of your arm to tighten the belt. Perhaps a bit more of a tug if that doesn't solve the problem. No need to be hanging off of (or even using) a 2x4" to get the belt to the proper tension. It's an easy one-person job. If you find yourself straining to keep the tension while tightening the bolt on the tensioning bracket, you've got the belt WAAAY too tight. That's a good way to set a belt up to snap when you're too far away from a replacement one.
Also, check the pivot bolts and nuts under the alternator. If they're loose, you won't be able to get the right tension. When they're properly tightened (after you tension the belt), the stress of the stretched belt will be spread more evenly around the mounting points of the alternator, reducing the chance of breaking mounts off. They should be tight enough that you can't move the alternator with your hand, and moving it with that crow/pry bar is almost impossible.
Have fun, Vanilla Latte.
#1028 of 1864 Re: Squealing belts anyone???? [dangerdude]
Nov 21, 2006 (3:53 pm)
DangerDude- yup, been there-done that. I found that the cheap-o belts sing loudly no matter what. So I took off the belt- trashed it, put on a top quality belt, and presto! no more noise... yes I tried the belt grip drssing and everything.
And yes the guy is right, not too tight you'll be replacing the idler, or pump / alternator.
When you have the belt off -check to see if the pulley(s) are glazed over, or have oil on them- never get oil, silicone near the pulley ! Use a qualty cleaner to remove the glaze if any...
Good Luck !
#1029 of 1864 Re: Squealing belts anyone???? [p10leadman]
Nov 22, 2006 (7:19 am)
Thank you gentlemen .. I fully understand the consequences of the "too-tight" belt and trashing neighboring bearings! Pipsqueak is far too valuble to risk owner induced damage. Anyway, I just changed the timing belt, water pump, front oil seal and alternator (and belt). Don't want to revisit those jobs again for another 100K miles! Sure do appreciate the information. We're now doing light bodywork to regain our youthful gloss. DangerBabe took Pipsqueak today and I had to drive a Ford Taurus wagon??? There goes my dangerous image!! (hah) DangerDude
#1030 of 1864 Re: 94 Geo Metro [deborahf]
Nov 22, 2006 (7:51 am)
The filling tube, the part just after the trap door, is made with a smaller siamese tube welded to it. The whole shebang is dipped in a hard rubber type of protection. Nevertheless, if moisture gets to the area where the weld is... bingo, rust develops and you have a leak... in the rear. Easy to replace but the cost of a new tube is horrendous. I had that problem and mortgaged my goldfish.... then when I saw a tube, almost new on ebay for 5 bucks, I jumped on it for my second car Espresso Nero. A2 door hatchettyback. For this one I found an air deflector to keep the rear window clean. Marvelous, just mahwvellous...Ebay: 10 bucks.
#1031 of 1864 94 Geo Metro--battery cables
Nov 22, 2006 (8:08 am)
How do I clean off battery cables? Can I do it myself without buying special sprays? Also, does the cable with the little plastic cover over it supposed to have a split (?)in it? It is not a solid piece like the other side.