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Hatchbacks Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Chevrolet/Geo Metro
1692 messages, Last post on Oct 24, 2009 at 5:27 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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Hello I live in the state of NY. The weather has been rainy. I cannot start my car. I did get it started (finally)and let it run for about 5 minutes. I gave it some gas (while sitting)and it stalled. My check engine light did come on the other day but has shut off. Help!
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Replying to: deborahf (Nov 15, 2006 5:40 am) 
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Replying to: p10leadman (Nov 17, 2006 6:53 pm) Thank you so much. I still have yet to fix my problem. I will try this. Actually, my car has been sitting in the carport. Afraid to drive. Everything is very old on my car. Never changed spark plugs. Or wires.  Never had enough cash to do so. Now I have a problem. I believe my gas tank probably needs to be replaced and whatever is inside it. I have a leak (gas)on the right side in the back of my car. My brother says my car is junk. Never had any problems. Always started for me. I bought it used. Have had it for, I don't know, maybe six years. Anything else you can tell me would be wonderful. Thanks...Deborah. |
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Replying to: deborahf (Nov 20, 2006 9:17 am) I am now trying to figure out how to replace a leaking heater core. Near as I can tell, it must be the first thing installed on the dash ! So, I flushed the system, added radiator sealer and new anti-freeze...maybe I can get away with that temporary fix another year. I think your problems are much less- and the fixes alot cheaper. If in fact the gas tank is leaking, a junkyard visit maybe in order... anew one will be around $99.oo + labor to install it. I never repair gas tanks. Is your car 3cyl, or 4 cyl, automatic, stnadard, does it have ac? 2 dr, 4 door? Good luck 
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Ok, the 2 dr Geo Metro (97) has a leak- verified with gooo on the inside of the windshield and a disappear act of anti freeze in the radiator! I checked my repair manual(haynes) and dear gawd! You all but remove the roof- the dash comes totally out and all cables, radio, ect- then if you do get the plastic box out, you have to pry it apart- thats the easy part I guess. A practice run on myparts car proved it to be a monster job. So far I flushed the system, and added radiator sealer and new anti freeze- hope to get away with that- car has 116,000 miles on it- hardly broken in. OK THAT ALL SAID: anyone got a tip of how to replace it easier? Other than a dealer? 
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Replying to: p10leadman (Nov 20, 2006 2:54 pm) My 94 Geo is a 3cyl, 2dr, standard, hatchback. No AC. Nothing fancy about it. Just your basic car. I have crawled under the rear of the car and there is (gas) slowly dripping out. I have a little puddle on the floor of my carport. Live in Rochester, NY. Thanks. I am new to this site.
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Replying to: deborahf (Nov 20, 2006 4:03 pm) I live in TX, so I guess it depends on why your gas tank is leaking. Rust is not a problem here, but backing over a rock was. I was able to have the hole in my gas tank repaired by a local shop that specializes in repairing gas tanks (and the repair was much cheaper than finding a gas tank for my '92 Metro convertible). If you have lots of rust on your tank, though, it wouldn't make sense to try to have it fixed - simply replace it with a rust-free one from a junk yard, as p1leadman suggested. Best, Stan |
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Dear fellow Metro drivers and maintainers, Here is's one for ya.. My Metro three banger is the sweetest fun car ever. I lavish love on it for recreation and therapy. My Metro (AKA Pipsqueak) and I are best friends .. however .. There is one thing that annoys me. On startup in the mornings, the one darn belt it has squeals like crazy. I've replaced the belt, tightened the belt, over tightened the belt, loostened the belt, sprayed the belt with belt stuff, it seems to come back every time. (??) I can stop it by turning of & re-starting the engine a few times until it starts quietly. Anybody else have this??? Thanks DangerDude
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Hey Dangerdude! I found this information for you. It was written buy a guy called Dave on Teamswift. Your belt must be insanely tight to avoid squealing but there's a problem with this... the tighter you crank that belt up, the more wear and tear you'll be putting on your waterpump and alternator bearings. If you're not careful, you could crack the waterpump housing from the compression stress you're putting on the tensioning bracket where it attaches to the waterpump. If you're tightening the belt a LOT, then there's something else wrong. You shouldn't need to use anything more than a 2' crow/pry bar and the weight of your arm to tighten the belt. Perhaps a bit more of a tug if that doesn't solve the problem. No need to be hanging off of (or even using) a 2x4" to get the belt to the proper tension. It's an easy one-person job. If you find yourself straining to keep the tension while tightening the bolt on the tensioning bracket, you've got the belt WAAAY too tight. That's a good way to set a belt up to snap when you're too far away from a replacement one. Also, check the pivot bolts and nuts under the alternator. If they're loose, you won't be able to get the right tension. When they're properly tightened (after you tension the belt), the stress of the stretched belt will be spread more evenly around the mounting points of the alternator, reducing the chance of breaking mounts off. They should be tight enough that you can't move the alternator with your hand, and moving it with that crow/pry bar is almost impossible. Have fun, Vanilla Latte. |
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Replying to: dangerdude (Nov 21, 2006 8:01 am) And yes the guy is right, not too tight you'll be replacing the idler, or pump / alternator. When you have the belt off -check to see if the pulley(s) are glazed over, or have oil on them- never get oil, silicone near the pulley ! Use a qualty cleaner to remove the glaze if any... Good Luck !
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