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Sedans Honda Accord Honda Accord Owners: Problems & Solutions 
13114 messages, Last post on Dec 12, 2005 at 7:45 PM
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A piece of glass is broken on the rear tail light of my 1995 Honda Accord LX 4 DR AT. I think I will have to replace the Tail Light Assembly. If I buy it on the Net, would I be able to replace it myself. I have replaced tail light bulbs - nothing more than that. If instructions are available, please post them or point out the URL for this. Thanks in advance. |
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i own a '91 accord lx. and within the past month, the motorized shoulder seatbelt strap on the driver's side has gone out on me. it started by sometimes stopping in the middle of going back when i closed my door. but then it would eventually go to its intended position after a few seconds or so. it progressively got worse. then, as time went on, the seatbelt light started flashing and beeping even though everything was strapped in and in the position it should be in. it didn't do this 100% of the time, and it would go away and come back at certain times. but now, it is to the point that it doesn't even go back at all when i close the door, and the beeping and flashing is non-stop. i tried doing as the manuel stated (checking the fuse, manually cranking the seatbelt back, and then putting the fuse back). but the next time i open the door, the strap goes back to the front position and never returns to the back position after the door is closed. i have eliminated a few possiblities (as listed below), but i still do not know the exact cause of this malfunction. -->it is not the fuse. the fuses (both for driver side and passenger side passive seatbelts) are both good. i even tried replacing it just in case. -->it isn't the door pin. the beeping and flashing dash light stop when the door's open. -->it is getting power. when i manually reset the position, it still automatically goes forward. so yesterday, i just took out the fuse so that it doesn't move at all, and then reset it into the back (strapped in) position, just so that i will not get pulled over for supposedly not wearing a seatbelt. but the flashing dash light and the beeping alert are still constant, even with that fuse out. any suggestions on how to get the motor properly working again? or is there a better way to stop the beeping besides pulling its plug from behind the dash?
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Replying to: justin (Jul 04, 2004 12:15 pm) Also why does Honda use the old fashioned pull thing for a lock. It is in the exact position where my arm needs to go.??? Easy
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Replying to: teman99 (Jun 11, 2004 11:06 am) |
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Replying to: lin-chi (Jun 03, 2004 2:19 pm) Can anyone help us on this noise??? |
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It may help to contact Honda. I own a '90 Mazda Protege. Some years ago Mazdas were having a problem with the motorized seatbelt and were forced to extend the seatbelt warrenty because of safety issues. The warrenty was extended, I think, to specify the life of the vehicle. I did receive a document expressing the warrenty extension. I think this might be why so many carmakers got away from the motorized belts.
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Replying to: whitecloud1 (Jul 13, 2004 8:08 am) My'04 Accord replaced a superb 1991 Mazda Protegé DX that had that dumb, automatic seatbelt (so happy not to have that now!) Mazda sent a letter to me saying that the motorized belt could stick and guaranteed it for 12 years from date of purchase--the letter was sent about 5 years ago, so I had about 4 years to respond. The letter said to take the car to a Mazda dealer to have contact points cleaned. My car's seat belt was sticking at times; however, I squirted some WD-40 into the door latch and that fixed the problem for a number of months. The contacts are in the door latching mechanism, not in the track that runs over the front door, so don't spray anything there.....Richard |
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| Wow WD40 again. Is there any lube job the stuff can't handle? Thanks for the info. I still have the car. Great little engine. | |
| There is a chance that the inner rail seal has come apart and jammed inside the rear interering with the rear position switch. Check and see if the seal is all there on both sides of the rail. Next is the control unit itself goes bad either internally or with rusted connections. It is located under the passenger side seat and can be inspected for corrosion at the connectors or unit. If all else fails you can keep the unit disconnected... | |
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i haven't had Honda look at the rattle. it won't do it when the car is in the shop of course. eventually perhaps a TSB will be out for it....hopefully. my transmission makes no noise. when you press the brake pedal, you will ALWAYS hear a "click" noise. that is the transmission lock out feature disengaging. but it isn't actually "gear noise". and there is a minscule delay when shifting from park to R or D. my VW had a 2 second delay. it is to protect the tranny from "catching" the new gear selection while you are still moving in another direction. a lot of people reverse, then throw it in D while still moving backwards. the new tranny's kind of compensate for that with the delay. that is what i was told anyway by VW. |
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