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13114 messages,  Last post on Dec 12, 2005 at 7:45 PM

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#6426 of 13114 clunk sound by occupant1 Dec 11, 2003 (6:58 pm)
if you hear a whirr or a clunk in a late model Accord right when you first get started, it's either the fuel pump kicking on, or if you mean it does the clunk as you start moving, that would be the anti-lock brakes system testing itself. If your foot is lightly on the brake as you start moving, you'll feel a small pulsation at the same time you hear the clunk
#6427 of 13114 lastwraith by auburn63 Dec 11, 2003 (7:32 pm)
problem 1 havent seen , but how is the battery/ charging system?   2..could be the TCU or more likely the gear position switch(some times called a shift inhibitor switch)located on the side of the shifter. Also could just be a cable adjustment.   3..is the noise while driving or shifting into gear? If while driving then suspect a bad strut or ball joint.   4..the rpm is close to what it should be. If you know it is higher then the trans may not be going into lockup. Hows the gas mileage been?   5..Sounds like a bad IAC(Idle Air Control valve) or a fast idle valve. There is a way to diag if you are familiar with the system..
#6428 of 13114 Follow-up by lastwraith Dec 12, 2003 (4:17 am)
1) The battery is only about a year old and the charging system had a look-over last summer, but perhaps it's time to have my mechanic check that out again. Recently, I was driving on the highway and both the tach and the speedometer just dropped to 0. A weird sight when doing 70. All other gauges, trip odo, odo, everything, seemed perfectly fine.   2)For chucko3, I've tried that. Sometimes is works sometimes it doesn't. Jiggling the shifter also sometimes pops the indicator on and then i can remove my key. Otherwise I leave it in for a while and eventually I am able to remove it. Sometimes it's a long while though. By reading some posts I saw that it might be a bad brake switch, a bad shift position switch or a bad TCU. I have a service manual and don't mind digging in. Definitely open to ideas.   3) Never while shifting, only when driving and only when I hit a bump on the passenger side in the front. A friend and I thought perhaps the strut, but we are not mechanics. Not even good shadetree ones.   4) Best gas mileage is 25mpg. Seems kinda sad, my 88 Regal got better and that car was a mess. (As for the tired GM products....they're cheap and I need the $ for college. My GMs werent half as tight as my Accord and handled like boats in comparison, but they took a beating and toted 6 people with ease. I'm not saying anything about the Accord, but I am no domestic hater.)   5) Thanks for all the help auburn, you are the alcan (bonneville boards) of the honda forums. I think was your advice to someone else about a similar problem, just kindly let me know if this is what to do. "It is most likely your Idle Air Control Valve. With the engine idling, remove the cover from this valve and feel for air circulation. When the engine is at correct operating temperature, this valve should close off and you should not feel any air circulating. Valve will run about $210. The idle air control valve is located on the front of the EFI. Two phillips head screws hold the top cover in place."   Thanks everybody, happy motoring.
#6429 of 13114 for last wraith by frozennorth Dec 12, 2003 (5:54 pm)
with respect to your problem #3, RF clunk. Might I suggest a CV joint filled with water & frozen. I had a CV joint replaced a while ago & a lot of water came out when the mechanic cut open the boot. The boot looked OK. If you want to find out for sure, aim a small heater at the boot, turn heater on before going to bed to keep this boot warm all night. If no noise in the morning, maybe you've found your problem.
#6430 of 13114 Questions about 2003 Accord by new2honda3 Dec 12, 2003 (7:48 pm)
Hi, First I'd like to say I'm new to this board and hello to everyone... After having driven a Camry for the past eleven years, and a Corolla before that, I recently purchased the Accord EX 4CL automatic. I think I'm still getting used to the car but a few things are bothering me: There is a sulfur-like (similar to rotten eggs) smell when I am stopped at a light or pull into my garage. The smell is much less when I have the AC on re circulate but it's still there. A friend's husband thought it sounded like it could be the catalytic converter - will this subside and should I be doing something to help it along, like heavy highway driving? The car has only 600 miles on it so far. The second thing is the rust on the inside of the alloy wheels is pretty heavy. The salesman had said it would go away when the car was driven a while but this isn't the case. Can that be cleaned or do I have to just deal with it? Thirdly, I am getting "ghost" refections in the rear view mirror which I never had in other cars. Does anyone else find this distracting? Thanks in advance for your help and have a good evening...
#6431 of 13114 sulfer/rotten egg smell by kendrid Dec 12, 2003 (7:50 pm)
I smelled that today on two different occassions. I have an 04 LX 4 with 1000 miles on it.   At first I thought it was something outside of my car, but it was definetly inside. I am going to try and get it to the dealer next week.
#6432 of 13114 lastwraith by auburn63 Dec 12, 2003 (8:51 pm)
thats it, after car is warm remove those 2 screws put your finger over the hole and there should be no vacuum.
#6433 of 13114 VERY VERY VERY Bad Luck by lelandhendrix Dec 13, 2003 (1:41 am)
My 2003 Accord Sedan was stolen from my driveway last night. Worst part is, they had stolen a key from my apartment (long story).   They drove the car and then jumped a curb and hit a small tree.   I have the car back from the police now, and there is some damage. The aftermarket rims and tires are ruined on the passenger side, where it looks like they skidded sideways onto a curb. There was a loud roar from the rear at over 20mph, and the dealer is ordering a wheel bearing for the pass-rear position. Other than that, the front bumper cover is really scuffed and badly scraped underneath.   Can anyone suggest any other things I need to check before feeling comfortable with the car again?   Oh, and the little fools got my aftermarket GPS, brookstone massaging car seat, and other goodies to the tune of $1200 just in property loss.
#6434 of 13114 leland / Car Check by atlantabenny Dec 13, 2003 (6:01 am)
Sorry about your new car. Suggest checking for sub-frame (and possibly but less likely frame) movement. A 4-wheel alignment, including a full underbody inspection by a keen mechanic/technician, should do the job. The trouble indicator is if the 4 wheels can't be aligned to factory specs no matter how hard the shop tries.   Also have the transaxle casing and lower engine parts checked. These may have hit the curb and cracked, later to leak oil.   This is one of the few times I'd recommend the inspection and any underbody work be done by the Honda dealer with the best service/body shop you can find.   For body panels and parts, search eBay to save some money if you plan on getting an insurance cash settlement.
#6435 of 13114 Car check for accident damage by imidazol97 Dec 13, 2003 (7:27 am)
The insurance company should pay for the inspection for the potential damage from the theft and accident. I'd suggest a dealer with a captive body shop that deals with accident damage as well as a good service shop.   I had a theft long ago and the insurance company was very cooperative.

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