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Sedans Honda Accord Honda Accord Owners: Problems & Solutions 
13114 messages, Last post on Dec 12, 2005 at 7:45 PM
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I posted a while back and got some great input, just looking for some suggestions again. After owning 2 tired GM products, the Honda has been a relative pleasure. Having said that, I have these issues with it: 1) Lately, whenever I engage the turn signals the Speedometer briefly drops to 0 and the Tach goes pretty crazy, bouncing up and down seemingly in time with the turn signal. 2) Only in cold weather really, the car does not register park on the dash (no lighted box around P) and the key will not come out, since I guess it still thinks I am in a running gear. Also, engaging reverse seems to take longer and I dont always get a lit box around that for quite some time. 3) When its really really cold out, there is a clunk from the passenger side front wheel. Frozen strut or something? It usually stops after the car has been going for a bit. 4) It runs 70mph at about 3000rpm. I dont think it used to run up the rpms that quickly. 5) Sometimes at idle (only after a cold start) the rpms fluctuate up and down since the idle speed kicks up and down. The fluctuation gets faster until ultimately it stops entirely when the engine is warm. Sounds like someone is revving it, but obviously no one is. As a side note, I replaced the TCU with a salvage yard pull (from a yard I always have gone to), but that was back in late summer when I posted about the car not finding any gears beyond 2nd and flashing a sport-shift warning light. Problems 1 and 4 are new, the others i have had since before the TCU replacement. I listed them in decreasing order of importance. Thanks guys! |
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It sounds like my 89 Accord. The car is old. 1. Haven't seen this yet. 2. Happened couple times last winter (under extremly cold weather). Start the car again, shift it out of Park, then shift back to Park. See if the Park light comes on. 3. Yes, on a few occasions under cold weather. 4. 70 mph at ~3k RPM. That's what my car has. 5. Saw it a couple times too. That's why I want to have my (old) car warmed up a bit longer in the winter before driving it. |
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"After owning 2 tired GM products..." Sounds like your Honda is getting tired too! |
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| if you hear a whirr or a clunk in a late model Accord right when you first get started, it's either the fuel pump kicking on, or if you mean it does the clunk as you start moving, that would be the anti-lock brakes system testing itself. If your foot is lightly on the brake as you start moving, you'll feel a small pulsation at the same time you hear the clunk | |
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problem 1 havent seen , but how is the battery/ charging system? 2..could be the TCU or more likely the gear position switch(some times called a shift inhibitor switch)located on the side of the shifter. Also could just be a cable adjustment. 3..is the noise while driving or shifting into gear? If while driving then suspect a bad strut or ball joint. 4..the rpm is close to what it should be. If you know it is higher then the trans may not be going into lockup. Hows the gas mileage been? 5..Sounds like a bad IAC(Idle Air Control valve) or a fast idle valve. There is a way to diag if you are familiar with the system.. |
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1) The battery is only about a year old and the charging system had a look-over last summer, but perhaps it's time to have my mechanic check that out again. Recently, I was driving on the highway and both the tach and the speedometer just dropped to 0. A weird sight when doing 70. All other gauges, trip odo, odo, everything, seemed perfectly fine. 2)For chucko3, I've tried that. Sometimes is works sometimes it doesn't. Jiggling the shifter also sometimes pops the indicator on and then i can remove my key. Otherwise I leave it in for a while and eventually I am able to remove it. Sometimes it's a long while though. By reading some posts I saw that it might be a bad brake switch, a bad shift position switch or a bad TCU. I have a service manual and don't mind digging in. Definitely open to ideas. 3) Never while shifting, only when driving and only when I hit a bump on the passenger side in the front. A friend and I thought perhaps the strut, but we are not mechanics. Not even good shadetree ones. 4) Best gas mileage is 25mpg. Seems kinda sad, my 88 Regal got better and that car was a mess. (As for the tired GM products....they're cheap and I need the $ for college. My GMs werent half as tight as my Accord and handled like boats in comparison, but they took a beating and toted 6 people with ease. I'm not saying anything about the Accord, but I am no domestic hater.) 5) Thanks for all the help auburn, you are the alcan (bonneville boards) of the honda forums. I think was your advice to someone else about a similar problem, just kindly let me know if this is what to do. "It is most likely your Idle Air Control Valve. With the engine idling, remove the cover from this valve and feel for air circulation. When the engine is at correct operating temperature, this valve should close off and you should not feel any air circulating. Valve will run about $210. The idle air control valve is located on the front of the EFI. Two phillips head screws hold the top cover in place." Thanks everybody, happy motoring. |
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| with respect to your problem #3, RF clunk. Might I suggest a CV joint filled with water & frozen. I had a CV joint replaced a while ago & a lot of water came out when the mechanic cut open the boot. The boot looked OK. If you want to find out for sure, aim a small heater at the boot, turn heater on before going to bed to keep this boot warm all night. If no noise in the morning, maybe you've found your problem. | |
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Hi, First I'd like to say I'm new to this board and hello to everyone...  After having driven a Camry for the past eleven years, and a Corolla before that, I recently purchased the Accord EX 4CL automatic. I think I'm still getting used to the car but a few things are bothering me: There is a sulfur-like (similar to rotten eggs) smell when I am stopped at a light or pull into my garage. The smell is much less when I have the AC on re circulate but it's still there. A friend's husband thought it sounded like it could be the catalytic converter - will this subside and should I be doing something to help it along, like heavy highway driving? The car has only 600 miles on it so far. The second thing is the rust on the inside of the alloy wheels is pretty heavy. The salesman had said it would go away when the car was driven a while but this isn't the case. Can that be cleaned or do I have to just deal with it? Thirdly, I am getting "ghost" refections in the rear view mirror which I never had in other cars. Does anyone else find this distracting? Thanks in advance for your help and have a good evening...
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I smelled that today on two different occassions. I have an 04 LX 4 with 1000 miles on it. At first I thought it was something outside of my car, but it was definetly inside. I am going to try and get it to the dealer next week. |
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| thats it, after car is warm remove those 2 screws put your finger over the hole and there should be no vacuum. | |
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