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13114 messages,  Last post on Dec 12, 2005 at 7:45 PM

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#6420 of 13114 A/C filter by bodble2 Dec 10, 2003 (5:20 pm)
Isn't it kind of stupid of Honda to design a item that needs replacing, to be so cumbersome to get at?!
#6421 of 13114 Cabin Air Filter by rcc8179 Dec 10, 2003 (6:07 pm)
I don't know if the 1998-2001 Accord is similar to the 2003, but it does not require removing the glove box in the 2003. Perhaps Honda got a lot of complaints if the earlier models did require significant disassembly.   With the 2003: 1. Open glove box 2. Disconnect damper on right side of glove box. 3. Push in on both sides of the back of the glove box to get past the catch point. The glove box will then pivot down. 4. Remove the air filter and replace.
#6422 of 13114 my 2¢ for sarakay by frozennorth Dec 10, 2003 (9:09 pm)
I sympathize with you. Up here, old rusty Hondas can be bought for less than $100 [I have 1 in my driveway but its a 5 speed]. Have you checked local auto wreckers to see what a used tranny would cost? [just a guess-$200 for tranny & $300 to put it in?] Wrecking yards around here are almost giving away parts from these cars because there is no market for them any more. Many offer a 30 day guarantee. Your price for the suspension is bang on. My 86 has just over 157,000 miles on it & I've had it since brand new. It looks & runs almost like new. I'm pulling parts off the rusty one then junking it.
#6423 of 13114 90 Accord LX Auto with 140K by lastwraith Dec 11, 2003 (3:27 am)
I posted a while back and got some great input, just looking for some suggestions again. After owning 2 tired GM products, the Honda has been a relative pleasure. Having said that, I have these issues with it:   1) Lately, whenever I engage the turn signals the Speedometer briefly drops to 0 and the Tach goes pretty crazy, bouncing up and down seemingly in time with the turn signal. 2) Only in cold weather really, the car does not register park on the dash (no lighted box around P) and the key will not come out, since I guess it still thinks I am in a running gear. Also, engaging reverse seems to take longer and I dont always get a lit box around that for quite some time. 3) When its really really cold out, there is a clunk from the passenger side front wheel. Frozen strut or something? It usually stops after the car has been going for a bit. 4) It runs 70mph at about 3000rpm. I dont think it used to run up the rpms that quickly. 5) Sometimes at idle (only after a cold start) the rpms fluctuate up and down since the idle speed kicks up and down. The fluctuation gets faster until ultimately it stops entirely when the engine is warm. Sounds like someone is revving it, but obviously no one is.   As a side note, I replaced the TCU with a salvage yard pull (from a yard I always have gone to), but that was back in late summer when I posted about the car not finding any gears beyond 2nd and flashing a sport-shift warning light. Problems 1 and 4 are new, the others i have had since before the TCU replacement. I listed them in decreasing order of importance.   Thanks guys!
#6424 of 13114 Re: 90 Accord LX Auto with 140K by chucko3 Dec 11, 2003 (9:12 am)
It sounds like my 89 Accord. The car is old. 1. Haven't seen this yet. 2. Happened couple times last winter (under extremly cold weather). Start the car again, shift it out of Park, then shift back to Park. See if the Park light comes on. 3. Yes, on a few occasions under cold weather. 4. 70 mph at ~3k RPM. That's what my car has. 5. Saw it a couple times too.   That's why I want to have my (old) car warmed up a bit longer in the winter before driving it.
#6425 of 13114 lastwraith by imidazol97 Dec 11, 2003 (9:32 am)
"After owning 2 tired GM products..."   Sounds like your Honda is getting tired too!
#6426 of 13114 clunk sound by occupant1 Dec 11, 2003 (6:58 pm)
if you hear a whirr or a clunk in a late model Accord right when you first get started, it's either the fuel pump kicking on, or if you mean it does the clunk as you start moving, that would be the anti-lock brakes system testing itself. If your foot is lightly on the brake as you start moving, you'll feel a small pulsation at the same time you hear the clunk
#6427 of 13114 lastwraith by auburn63 Dec 11, 2003 (7:32 pm)
problem 1 havent seen , but how is the battery/ charging system?   2..could be the TCU or more likely the gear position switch(some times called a shift inhibitor switch)located on the side of the shifter. Also could just be a cable adjustment.   3..is the noise while driving or shifting into gear? If while driving then suspect a bad strut or ball joint.   4..the rpm is close to what it should be. If you know it is higher then the trans may not be going into lockup. Hows the gas mileage been?   5..Sounds like a bad IAC(Idle Air Control valve) or a fast idle valve. There is a way to diag if you are familiar with the system..
#6428 of 13114 Follow-up by lastwraith Dec 12, 2003 (4:17 am)
1) The battery is only about a year old and the charging system had a look-over last summer, but perhaps it's time to have my mechanic check that out again. Recently, I was driving on the highway and both the tach and the speedometer just dropped to 0. A weird sight when doing 70. All other gauges, trip odo, odo, everything, seemed perfectly fine.   2)For chucko3, I've tried that. Sometimes is works sometimes it doesn't. Jiggling the shifter also sometimes pops the indicator on and then i can remove my key. Otherwise I leave it in for a while and eventually I am able to remove it. Sometimes it's a long while though. By reading some posts I saw that it might be a bad brake switch, a bad shift position switch or a bad TCU. I have a service manual and don't mind digging in. Definitely open to ideas.   3) Never while shifting, only when driving and only when I hit a bump on the passenger side in the front. A friend and I thought perhaps the strut, but we are not mechanics. Not even good shadetree ones.   4) Best gas mileage is 25mpg. Seems kinda sad, my 88 Regal got better and that car was a mess. (As for the tired GM products....they're cheap and I need the $ for college. My GMs werent half as tight as my Accord and handled like boats in comparison, but they took a beating and toted 6 people with ease. I'm not saying anything about the Accord, but I am no domestic hater.)   5) Thanks for all the help auburn, you are the alcan (bonneville boards) of the honda forums. I think was your advice to someone else about a similar problem, just kindly let me know if this is what to do. "It is most likely your Idle Air Control Valve. With the engine idling, remove the cover from this valve and feel for air circulation. When the engine is at correct operating temperature, this valve should close off and you should not feel any air circulating. Valve will run about $210. The idle air control valve is located on the front of the EFI. Two phillips head screws hold the top cover in place."   Thanks everybody, happy motoring.
#6429 of 13114 for last wraith by frozennorth Dec 12, 2003 (5:54 pm)
with respect to your problem #3, RF clunk. Might I suggest a CV joint filled with water & frozen. I had a CV joint replaced a while ago & a lot of water came out when the mechanic cut open the boot. The boot looked OK. If you want to find out for sure, aim a small heater at the boot, turn heater on before going to bed to keep this boot warm all night. If no noise in the morning, maybe you've found your problem.

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