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Honda Accord Owners: Problems & Solutions ![]()

13114 messages, Last post on Dec 12, 2005 at 7:45 PM
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| Just disconnect your negative battery cable so you don't accidentally set off the air bag. BD21 is right about all the screws. When I got done with mine I had 2 left over. | |
| Thanks guys. | |
| Isn't it kind of stupid of Honda to design a item that needs replacing, to be so cumbersome to get at?! | |
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I don't know if the 1998-2001 Accord is similar to the 2003, but it does not require removing the glove box in the 2003. Perhaps Honda got a lot of complaints if the earlier models did require significant disassembly. With the 2003: 1. Open glove box 2. Disconnect damper on right side of glove box. 3. Push in on both sides of the back of the glove box to get past the catch point. The glove box will then pivot down. 4. Remove the air filter and replace. |
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| I sympathize with you. Up here, old rusty Hondas can be bought for less than $100 [I have 1 in my driveway but its a 5 speed]. Have you checked local auto wreckers to see what a used tranny would cost? [just a guess-$200 for tranny & $300 to put it in?] Wrecking yards around here are almost giving away parts from these cars because there is no market for them any more. Many offer a 30 day guarantee. Your price for the suspension is bang on. My 86 has just over 157,000 miles on it & I've had it since brand new. It looks & runs almost like new. I'm pulling parts off the rusty one then junking it. | |
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I posted a while back and got some great input, just looking for some suggestions again. After owning 2 tired GM products, the Honda has been a relative pleasure. Having said that, I have these issues with it: 1) Lately, whenever I engage the turn signals the Speedometer briefly drops to 0 and the Tach goes pretty crazy, bouncing up and down seemingly in time with the turn signal. 2) Only in cold weather really, the car does not register park on the dash (no lighted box around P) and the key will not come out, since I guess it still thinks I am in a running gear. Also, engaging reverse seems to take longer and I dont always get a lit box around that for quite some time. 3) When its really really cold out, there is a clunk from the passenger side front wheel. Frozen strut or something? It usually stops after the car has been going for a bit. 4) It runs 70mph at about 3000rpm. I dont think it used to run up the rpms that quickly. 5) Sometimes at idle (only after a cold start) the rpms fluctuate up and down since the idle speed kicks up and down. The fluctuation gets faster until ultimately it stops entirely when the engine is warm. Sounds like someone is revving it, but obviously no one is. As a side note, I replaced the TCU with a salvage yard pull (from a yard I always have gone to), but that was back in late summer when I posted about the car not finding any gears beyond 2nd and flashing a sport-shift warning light. Problems 1 and 4 are new, the others i have had since before the TCU replacement. I listed them in decreasing order of importance. Thanks guys! |
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It sounds like my 89 Accord. The car is old. 1. Haven't seen this yet. 2. Happened couple times last winter (under extremly cold weather). Start the car again, shift it out of Park, then shift back to Park. See if the Park light comes on. 3. Yes, on a few occasions under cold weather. 4. 70 mph at ~3k RPM. That's what my car has. 5. Saw it a couple times too. That's why I want to have my (old) car warmed up a bit longer in the winter before driving it. |
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"After owning 2 tired GM products..." Sounds like your Honda is getting tired too! |
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| if you hear a whirr or a clunk in a late model Accord right when you first get started, it's either the fuel pump kicking on, or if you mean it does the clunk as you start moving, that would be the anti-lock brakes system testing itself. If your foot is lightly on the brake as you start moving, you'll feel a small pulsation at the same time you hear the clunk | |
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problem 1 havent seen , but how is the battery/ charging system? 2..could be the TCU or more likely the gear position switch(some times called a shift inhibitor switch)located on the side of the shifter. Also could just be a cable adjustment. 3..is the noise while driving or shifting into gear? If while driving then suspect a bad strut or ball joint. 4..the rpm is close to what it should be. If you know it is higher then the trans may not be going into lockup. Hows the gas mileage been? 5..Sounds like a bad IAC(Idle Air Control valve) or a fast idle valve. There is a way to diag if you are familiar with the system.. |
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