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Honda Accord Owners: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

13114 messages,  Last post on Dec 12, 2005 at 7:45 PM

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What is this discussion about? Honda Accord, Auto Body, Engine, Suspension, Coupe, Sedan

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#31 of 13114
auburn63 by broncodave
Jun 30, 2000 (6:24 pm)
You seem to know you stuff when it comes to the Accord. I have a '00 EX built 1/00 5K miles not and it is my first Honda. I was going down a hill at about 55 MPH yesterday and I had to decelerate to about 15 MPH for a car to turn. After the car turned I pushed the gas(not hard). The car hesitated for a second and the jerked forward. I am thinking maybe the torque converter lock up disengaged and cause it? What do you think? Do I a have a problem?
#32 of 13114
Broncodave by auburn63
Jun 30, 2000 (9:53 pm)
I think that it was probably completly normal. Honda has developed and used their own Trans for years and although they make improvements to them every year they are not what most people are used to. They do not use what almost every other trans uses and that is a planetary gear set. That peice plus a few others doesnt allow the Honda to shift like most others. On the plus side they tend to last along time if taken care of. Good luck with your new car, hope you enjoy it.
#33 of 13114
auburn63-question about windshield by silvercoupe
Jun 30, 2000 (11:48 pm)
Just got my LX Coupe back from service. I mentioned that the windshield gasket on the drivers side does not fit properly at the bottom (about 1" of raw edge of glass is exposed). Just cosmetic, no leaks. I thought that they could just seal back down, but they are ordering a new gasket. How difficult is it to replace this gasket? I want it to look as good as new when they get done. What is your opinion on replacing the gasket?
#34 of 13114
silvercoupe by auburn63
Jul 01, 2000 (3:09 am)
They dont have us reseal the glass at our shop, we have a glass company do it.So I dont know how involved it is,however I dont know if I would have it done with it not leaking or anything. If it is just cosmetic could you not do something to make it look better? Although I am sure it is not a bad job cause they seem to do it easy enough,I just wouldnt want to take the chance on creating a problem.Are you sure there are no leaks? Of course I can't see it so I dont know how bad it is and if it bothers you then you deserve the car the way you want it so....I guess what I am saying is, it is your choice. I have seen them after they were done and the ones I have saw came out nice.Good luck with your choice
#35 of 13114
Hot Air by notm
Jul 01, 2000 (7:12 am)
HOW HOT IS IT?


I've noticed something that may be affecting my A/C temperature. My A/C on a 2000 LX is just not that cool. I am in SF and it doesn't get that warm here.BTW it does not have the Auto Temperature Gizmo that the EX has.


I'VE NOTICED
With the Temperature(blue/red ring) knob set all the way in the blue AND A/C OFF AND recirc air OFF-- the air coming from the dash center/side vents is quite warm. I've checked the temp in separate and combinations of the following (without thermometer) normal driving windows up, after car has sat over 4hrs, windows up, windows down; highway and street speeds; fan at 1-4--the air coming from the vents is always warmer than outside air.
Only after A/C is turned off after running 10+ minutes is the vent air not warmer than outside for a little while until it gets warm.


PURE OUTSIDE AIR
Is it possible to get pure outside air that is not heated?


A/C NOT POWERFUL
This warm air coming from just the vent seems to be related to the fact that the AC is not that powerful. It is starting with a handicap.


Any similar observations?


Auburn, Any explanations?


Thanks.
#36 of 13114
notm by auburn63
Jul 01, 2000 (2:07 pm)
Some of the vented air that is coming into your car has passed over the engine and underhood area.So therfore it will be alittle heated because of this. Also incoming fresh air runs through the inside of the car before exiting out the vent and it picks up some of the heat inside the car. You will also want some one to check and make sure the hot water valve is completly closing if not then the air is also being heated by the heater core.
  For max cooling when first getting in car you should have windows down,recerc on,ac on max speed.After short time(1-3min)roll up windows and adjust blower speed to your comfort.The lower the blower speed the cooler the air will be,however when it is hot in car its best to have on high until you get cooled off.
#37 of 13114
Digital Clock in 1998 Accord by j_walker
Jul 01, 2000 (2:48 pm)
I recently installed the in-dash CD player in my
wife's 1998 Accord and now noticing that the
digital clock's time displays when the key is not
in the ignition per the owner's manual. Also, the
clock isn't back-lit allowing the time to be
displayed in low light or when the headlights are
turned on. I'd not noticed this before. Are
either of these symptoms normal?
#38 of 13114
auburn63 by amazon
Jul 01, 2000 (3:39 pm)
Dude, you are good!!!! I took it to the Honda service department, and they said the same thing. Good feeling that I only will be out a couple of hundred bucks instead of thousands. Gotta give Immke Honda's (Dublin, OH) service department credit for excelling in customer service. They always do a great job.
#39 of 13114
Brake Problem 90 Accord by cgianos
Jul 01, 2000 (5:57 pm)
My wife's car has a braking problem. On hot days the brakes will almost totally fail if the car is going down a hill. It feels like there is air in the system but after a minute or so they work OK again. (They have been bled twice) This only happens occassionaly, but obviously it is a big problem. Two trips to the dealer have resulted in "there is nothing wrong with it". I saw an article in a Sacramento area paper about a women who's Accord went through the same thing, resulting in an accident that killed a passenger. This really has us worried but we expect others may know how to fix this.


Any suggessions on what to look for? We would like to keep the car a couple more years, it is only usxed for a short (3 mile) commute to work.


Thanks.


#40 of 13114
JWalker,amazon,and cgianos by auburn63
Jul 02, 2000 (3:25 am)
JWalker,
 The bulb is probably blown. I have replaced many, all you need to do is pull the clock and take out the small bulb and replace it. If the bulb is good then you need a clock but most just need the bulb.


Amazon, y thank you,,,thank you very much


cgianos,
  Most likely one of two things...
1.Sticky or frozen brake caliper pins, if the caliper can't slide then it makes the pedal effort harder and the pedal to go lower to the floor.


2.The brake master cylynder is on its way out only intermitantly failing at this time.Sometimes you can check this by putting car in gear and rolling forward then very slowly apply the brakes. If the brake pedal sinks to near the floor and gives you very little braking then it is bad.Give it a try and if you are not for sure it may be a best guess kind of thing.I have seen a lot of the 90-93 Accords need masters as of late.

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