You are here:
Forums
Sedans
Mazda Protege
Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

3600 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
|
No it wasn't carbon deposits. Carbon deposits cause an engine to ping or knock under load, note this does not affect idle at all. Modern anti-knock sensors retard the engine timing so no knocking is heard, you lose power and gas mileage instead. Carbon deposits reach a steady state at about 10-20k miles. The trick is for that steady state to be below the ping threshold. Causes of excessive carbon deposit buildup are putting supreme gas into a regular engine, driving a lot of short trips where the engine doesn't have a chance to warm up, and an engine that burns oil can have excessive carbon deposit buildup too. Running rough at idle which is what you are describing can be a binding automatic clutch, or maybe just the idle speed is set too low. You could also have air intake adjustment problems, the air intake is computer controlled and something in there could be binding up too. Ultimately though, all of these add up to an idle speed that is too low, although the cause is different. I would start with the idle adjust. If you have a manual then the problem is not in an automatic clutch because you don't have one. The problem is more likely idle speed too low, clogged fuel injectors, or something messed up in the air intake path. If you have a tach you can easily test and verify the idle speed, I don't know what the recommended spec is but mine reads about 650 RPM. If you have a manual then this is an easy test try gently pressing on the gas and get the idle up to 700 RPM, if the shuddering noise goes away then the problem is identified. If you have an automatic then try shifting into neutral and back. If the idle isn't up to near 700 RPM in both cases then an adjustment may be needed, if the problem goes away in neutral and the idle speed goes up, that confirms a low idle also. If shifting into drive causes a huge decrease in idle speed and idle adjust does not fix it (meaning the idle speed is hard to raise up but in neutral it goes way up easily) then you have an automatic clutch problem (these are rare so not too likely here). hope this helps, kmh3 |
|
|
Some people have asked how long a Mazda will last. I've had my 91 626 since 9/93 when I bought it with 16,000 miles on it. I now have 350,000 miles and still with the original 5 speed manual transmission. I replaced the engine |
|
| I HAVE A 96 PROTEGE LX THAT IDLES ROUGH OR WHEN POWER WINDOWS ARE USED AT IDLE. I ALSO HAVE A HIGH END STEREO SYTEM CURRENTLY USING THREE AMPLIFIERS BUT IT IDLED ROUGH BEFORE I HAD THE SYSTEM. RUBBING NOISE ALSO WHEN I SLOW DOWN TO BRAKE FOR A LIGHT OR STOP SIGN. MECHANIC SAYS THAT MY CALLIPER ON THE RIGHT SIDE IS STICKING. IS THIS TRUE? I JUST HAD THE PADS REPLACED AND ROTORS TURNED ABOUT 1000 MILES AGO AND NOTICED THIS NOISE AFTER THAT. | |
| I have a '97 Mazda Protege LX, I got it new so I have had it for almost 3 years. I have about 41,000 miles on it. I love my car, it is so dependable. I recently had thought that I needed to change the brake pads and I also heard a tapping like you said, j70005t. I found out that the tapping was the heat cover (?), I have no idea what that was but they just removed it-guess you don't need it. It is fine now. They checked the brakes and said they were fine. No noises now. I have not had anything wrong with it, I have taken it for regular oil changes and just had the brake pads replaced (driving in downtown Boston, MA during rush hour kills my brakes). I love the way it handles too, it is so easy to steer and I love the pick up on it. So j70005t, have the mechanic check the heat cover to see if that is what is causing the noise. | |
|
Thanks for all your comments/tips on my original post about a protege (auto/dx/97). I took the car back last week to the dealer again, and a technician took a ride with me in the car, he then listened to the noise, open the hood, and adjusted 2 screws, and the hood is no-longer in contact with the noise source and the it is "fixed". Although, i can still feel the idle is still a little rough. As kmh3 said, it might just be a low idle (when i changed to "N", it seems reduces the small vibration i can feel). Anyway, the dealer has cleaned the carbon built-up and air in-take in "an effort" to fix the idle problem. (The technician told me the computer will do most of the work, so they just did the cleaning.) In the past 3 years, i drove mostly short trips. Anyway, felt much better now. Agree with quad143, this is a nice car. Loved it. Thanks again! jt |
|
|
My '98 Mazda Protege LX (automatic) has 25,000 miles on it. Just recently, the dashboard light behind the speedometer and tachometer went out for good. Also, the tripometer continually resets itself without me pushing in the knob to reset it. I just recently bought the car from a dealer and it is still under warranty. When I bought the car, the odometer had been replaced 5,000 miles ago. Could these two problems be related to having a bad clip or dashboard unit? Any suggestions? Is the dashboard light hard to replace? Will this be covered under Mazda's warranty? Thanks for any input. |
|
| I recently said that I have had no problems with my '97 Protege LX, I guess I should have knocked on wood. The problem isn't bad though, I noticed that all the lights on the dash are on except the heat/AC control. I noticed the strip where you control what is on was not lit up and then once I moved it back and forth a few times, it came back on. I will take it in and have it fixed because my warranty is up soon, I think. No problems with any other lights or anything else (now I am knocking on wood). I'll let you know what the dealer tells me. | |
|
... for a 3-year-old car. You've probably got nothing more than a light bulb that's loose in its socket. MD |
|
|
Two days ago my '00 Protege ES just lost power. The car became much clumsy and acceleration became so bad. Before I wasn't able to floor the gas pedal at all - the car would take of! Now I am pressing it all the way down, trying to get responce...which comes years later and it is much weaker, compared to what it was before. Today I took it to the dealer. They said - "no problems found". Damn! Tech roadtested the vehicle for 2 miles - felt ok according to the tech. "checked computer for codes. no codes found" - I do not even know what that means. I have no idea what to do... A person from the TownHall suggested check/change the air filter. (I'll do it tomorrow, but the car has less than 4000 miles on it) Is it possible the air filter to affect the power that much? By the way - the gas pedal itself feels sort of "lighter" - seems like now it is easier to press it... Any ideas/suggestions? |
|
|
thanks for the input, Chickoo and Mdaffron,. My protege is an ES and the noise does not sound like it is coming from the engine as it is very loud and sounds like it is outside of the engine as it is not muffled and almost echo's under the hood. My guess would be it is a part that is loose, I will check the plugs however and notice if it occurs at a certain RPM range. I don't feel anything weird on the acceleration pedal when it occur's either. Matt |
|
You are here:
Forums
Sedans
Mazda Protege
Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2003 Mazda Protege



Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats