Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 3:03 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege
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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#3722 of 3742 Re: 2000 Mazda Protege won't start after warming up [jdj2]
Jul 24, 2012 (8:01 am)
Hi. I am also having the same problem with my 2000 mazda protege lx, approx 37,000 miles and has been at my mechanic and now another mechanic over the past few months and they are telling me that they cannot do anything (repairs) on the car because there is no signs of anything wrong with it. I know that there is something up with the car. Can you tell me how you and your father were able to figure out that it was the crankshaft positon sensor? My dh and I are not mechanically equipped and don't have money to throw around unnecessarily on car parts. We just had the starter changed when this all happened in April when the weather here in NY started to get warmer. At one point the car wouldn't start after 4 tries and then it started fine after 20 minutes. We had autozone check out the batter, alternator, etc and all was fine. We do not have a check engine light on.
Aug 08, 2012 (6:04 am)
Hey all, I'm new here and just thanking in advance. There's a lot of good info here. My protege will stall when driving then "buck" and run fine but it continues to get worse. I cleaned both sides of all multiconnectors and drew a blank as I was thinking this thing is just cutting out then starts to run again so I looked for intermittants in the electrical system.. no luck there. So I'll start with cleaning and checking the erg system. thx,jack
#3724 of 3742 Re: 2000 protege [littlemazda]
Aug 08, 2012 (8:37 am)
So I'll start with cleaning and checking the erg system
Good idea. The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recycling) mechanism is a known issue with Proteges. Hope this solves it for you.
#3725 of 3742 Re: 2000 protege [autonomous]
Aug 09, 2012 (3:50 am)
Is there a diagram HERE for the vacumn line layout? There's no label under the hood. Also is that the IAC system mounted on the bottom side of the TB? (2 antifreeze filled hoses and control wire plug.) Last question...Do I need to remove TB to get to the EGR value? I'm having a hard time locating it. this car was wrecked at some point but did run well for the last two years my friend has owned it.
2000 Protege 1.8 DOHC 5 speed manual.
ps does that TB require a new gasket when removed?
#3726 of 3742 Re: 2000 protege [littlemazda]
Aug 09, 2012 (3:10 pm)
correction. this protege dx has a 1.6 in it. I did front brakes and had to get the ones for a 1.8 to match what was in it. fun eh?
#3727 of 3742 Re: problem with vibrating: HELP [diddle]
Aug 10, 2012 (7:32 am)
i had the same problem with my 98, it ended up being a dry rotted vacuum line forgive me for my lack of knowledge but my father inlaw said the line went to the brake if that helps any. i do know that we replaced it and the vibrating stopped.
#3728 of 3742 Re: 2000 protege [autonomous]
Aug 19, 2012 (8:35 am)
Back again. I cleaned the egr valve. Made a new gasket. Cleaned entire TB and all assosiated vacumn hoses. No cracks. repaced TB gasket too. The engine light went out then reoccured after about 20 miles. Then the motor would lose speed from about 55mph down to approx 40 mph then resume it's speed till about 55-60.. this continued till I got home. It seems like a fuel delivery problem. There is a canister shaped item mounted on the firewall passenger side. It has ONE steel line connected to the "tank" side and one vacumn hose on the other side...running to a sensor mounted on the TB. Both connections are on the top of it... Can anyone help me Identify this item?? It's obviously part of the fuel system... thanks.
ps it does seem to idle a little high after warm up..
#3729 of 3742 Re: 2000 protege [littlemazda]
Aug 22, 2012 (1:10 pm)
The part you are referring to is most likely the charcoal canister. It is part of the evaporative emissions control system and usually doesn't fail. Here is a good explanation:
Are the spark plug wires O.K.? I had engine hesitation at 45-50 M.P.H. and it was a bad plug wire.
Have you changed the fuel filter? I've not had any fuel related issues (pump, fuel pressure regulator, etc.) on my '95 Protege, so I'm not able to give much advice in this area.
#3731 of 3742 Life of Mufflers
Aug 22, 2012 (1:41 pm)
I just replaced my '95 Mazda Protege Muffler for the second time since I purchased the car new. The original muffler lasted 10 years before the weld failed at the flange connecting the muffler to the resonator pipe.
The second muffler was a Bosal high end model and it only lasted 7 years. It failed internally and a big hole developed in the bottom of the muffler body. I thought this part was lifetime warranty, but I didn't keep the warranty documentation (have receipt) from the online purchase. The seller, although still in business, no longer sells mufflers and had changed computers, etc. They said to check with Bosal. Bosal didn't respond to my email request for warranty replacement, so no more Bosal parts for this DIY mechanic.
I had a 20% off coupon and bought a new Walker high end muffler at a local Pep Boys store with lifetime warranty. This muffler is actually made in the USA (unlike Bosal- made in Mexico) and it appears to be good quality. I hope to get 10 years out of it!
Changing the muffler on this car is pretty easy with jack stands. Just back the car up onto the stands. Use some rust remover on the nuts and bolts' threads. Use some grease on the metal support arms/hangers to easily remove the muffler from the rubber grommets. Piece of cake. One hour or less to complete.