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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

3600 messages,  Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda Protege, Sedan

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#3582 of 3600 Re: 2001 mazda protege o/d and engine light [bhahn] by autonomous Nov 08, 2009 (4:11 pm)
Replying to: bhahn (Nov 06, 2009 2:09 pm) o/d light blinking on and off and check engine light staying on ... did not help.any ideas? Did you get a diagnostic done? The codes may help narrow down the problem.
#3583 of 3600 Re: HVAC Fan speed switch not working [2000falcon] by hooker321 Nov 09, 2009 (10:32 pm)
Replying to: 2000falcon (Nov 07, 2009 3:52 pm) Blower motor resistor bad! Behind glove box! Look up autozone part for a picture and you will see it as soon as you look up there behind glovebox! Easy fix buy new one, unplug old, unscrew and put new one in and replug it in.. Hope this helps!
#3584 of 3600 finikaria by finikaria Nov 10, 2009 (9:50 am)
Just to let folk out there know.                                                                                          I have a 1990 mazda 323(think it's called protege in the states).Had it from new. It has done 350,000 kilometers,and is just in for the 2nd replacement clutch.Exhaust has never been changed,             Can anyone guess how many miles I am going to get from this engine(b3 1.3l)
#3585 of 3600 2003 Protege5 rear brakes sticking by mephisto13 Nov 12, 2009 (6:22 am)
Hi folks.   A few weeks ago, my Protege5's rear brakes stuck to the rear wheels. Unfortunately, my girlfriend didn't really notice until she saw the smoke. She drove about 5 blocks, downhill. We brought the car to the dealership in the afternoon (and the brakes had unstuck by then) and they switched out the brake pads (apparently, they were melted quite badly).   Low and behold, today, the rear brakes stuck again. This time, my girlfriend noticed that the parking brake was loose (no resistance when putting it on). It's going back to the dealership for repairs but I'm wondering if anyone had this problem before, and what it could be?   I was thinking maybe the rear calipers? Moisture in the cables or something?
#3586 of 3600 Rear Discs or Drum Brakes? by 99dx Nov 12, 2009 (7:28 am)
I had a car with rear drums break and wedge one shoe ... but that's not your problem. Fix that parking brake before the rear brake job.
#3587 of 3600 Re: Lots of RPM's--No speed [napanee] by goodie2 Nov 12, 2009 (8:09 pm)
Replying to: napanee (Sep 05, 2000 9:13 pm) have the air flow meter check, also egr vale wil cause that problem
#3588 of 3600 Re: Clutch [autonomous] by oldman15 Nov 13, 2009 (9:09 am)
Replying to: autonomous (Oct 13, 2009 9:05 am) Auton,   By your suggestion, I'm guessing that the alternator is burried down near the clutch. I'm sure when everything is apart, the dealer will suggest replacement no matter what. In order to check it, does it need to be visually inspected, or can an electronic diagnostic do the trick ahead of time.   Thanks.   O15 Replies to this message: autonomous (Nov 13, 2009 2:57 pm) oldman15 (Nov 15, 2009 9:30 am)
#3589 of 3600 Re: Clutch [oldman15] by autonomous Nov 13, 2009 (2:57 pm)
Replying to: oldman15 (Nov 13, 2009 9:09 am) dealer will suggest replacement no matter what In an honest dealership, the mechanic should suggest the replacement of a worn part if it will save the client money. The saving is in the labor that will not need to be redone. The real issue for many drivers is do we trust the mechanic giving the advice? If not, seek another opinion. Replies to this message: oldman15 (Nov 15, 2009 9:30 am)
#3590 of 3600 Re: Clutch [autonomous] by oldman15 Nov 15, 2009 (9:30 am)
Replying to: autonomous (Nov 13, 2009 2:57 pm) My experience has been to ask the 4 local dealers the same question & get 3 - 4 different answers, which is why this site is usually so valuable. You sounded expereinced in the eval & replacement of the item, thus the question. Thanks for the advise; as always I'll ask around. O15
#3591 of 3600 2000 Protege ES Electrical Issues by peterswhitney Nov 16, 2009 (11:25 am)
I have a 2000 Protege ES (169,000 miles) with two issues that might be related. First the right headlight on works on high beam (the dashboard light no longer turns on) and the left one does not work at all. I replaced the bulbs and it did not fix the problem. While I was changing the bulbs I noticed the plastic connector housing was half melted. After the headlights did not come on I cut out the connector housing and directly attached the wires to the headlights. This did not help and I still have one headlight. Another aspect of this is that all the electrical components (headlights, interior light, radio display, etc.) flicker while driving and while the engine is on and the car is stopped. The alternator went out for the 2nd time in 3 years and I thought that maybe the voltage regulator was causing the problem, but with the new alternator the issue still exists. The second issue is that the vehicle idles very rough. My check engine light does not come on, but Autozone returned a code saying that cylinder 3 was not firing. I changed the plugs, wires, and ignition coil, but the engine is still running rough. The old wires and ignition coil had a couple ends that were black and charred. If anyone has suggestions I would be most appreciative to hear them. Thanks!! Replies to this message: autonomous (Nov 17, 2009 9:52 am) peterswhitney (Nov 17, 2009 11:57 am) ihatecars (Nov 21, 2009 11:58 pm) baytownmomma (Nov 28, 2009 3:21 pm)

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