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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

3599 messages,  Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 3:22 PM

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#3537 of 3599 Re: Help Please!!! [autonomous] by downtube Aug 26, 2009 (6:16 pm)
Replying to: autonomous (Aug 26, 2009 12:26 pm) How do you know the head isn't cracked?   The first thing I'd do is run a compression test. Blown head gasket and/or warped head is a good possibility. You can also look for sign of coolant from the tailpipe, oil in the coolant, or bubbles/churning in the radiator when the engine is cranked.   If the engine got really hot it could have damaged sensors and/or sensor cables. I've seen the crank position sensor cable melted by an overheated engine.   I recently replaced a blown head gasket on a mazda that overheated. Don't be fooled by thinking a head gasket is only $60. The repair cost me about $600, and I did all the labor myself. Overheating can do a lot of damage. I had to replace the radiator, the crank position sensor, top end gasket set, and head bolts. With the engine apart it made sense to replace the timing belt, water pump, both serpentine belts, and radiator hoses.   The guys at clubprotege.com and themazdaforum.com can be helpful. You'll need to provide good information, not just say "please help". Like, how do you know the head isn't cracked? What exactly happened? Have you done any tests? Do you have the mechanical skills to troubleshoot and repair? Don't be offended, but folks will respond better to good solid information than desperate pleas.
#3538 of 3599 Re: Help Please!!! [helpme101] by hooker321 Aug 26, 2009 (6:55 pm)
Replying to: helpme101 (Aug 26, 2009 12:32 pm) You will need to have the Cylinder head worked on. I paid 375.00 for the rebuild and did it myself. Your valves cant close now so you will never get the 195 lbs of compression you need. Your head is prob not cracked tho. The shop will do a pressure check before rebuilding it. I would fix then sell.. or junk the car meaning part it out on ebay! Mine left me stranded on a -30 degree day and I vow to never own a computer controled, timing belt istead of chain, piece of crap again! Mechanical everything, even the fuel pump!
#3539 of 3599 2001 protege died by chump2 Aug 31, 2009 (1:50 am)
i need some advise , our 2001 Es has 108,000miles yesterday it just died , we were able to restart it but it would staul out , after running it for a while keeping my foot on the gas slightly it would now stay running but idles low . the engine light came on and is still on . we dont want to use it because we dont want to get stuck on the road , we havent had any problems until now we purchased it new . any thoughts ? thanks Replies to this message: downtube (Sep 10, 2009 12:41 am) hooker321 (Oct 02, 2009 2:28 pm)
#3540 of 3599 3000+ rpm when running in park by waldoownz1981 Sep 07, 2009 (9:54 am)
Hi,   I have a 97 mazda protege and recently i started having issues where the idle is very high. started with 1500 rpms and now its at 3000. Just wondering if anyone else had the same issue with this car and how did it get resolved. Thanks Replies to this message: downtube (Sep 10, 2009 12:56 am) autonomous (Sep 10, 2009 8:35 am)
#3541 of 3599 Re: 2001 protege died [chump2] by downtube Sep 10, 2009 (12:41 am)
Replying to: chump2 (Aug 31, 2009 1:50 am) Take it to a local auto parts store and have them hook a scanner to it to retrieve the fault code number that's causing the engine light to come on. They will do this for free. Post the information here, or on one of the many Mazda Protege online forums. There are many enthusiasts for this car who are willing to help.
#3542 of 3599 Re: 3000+ rpm when running in park [waldoownz1981] by downtube Sep 10, 2009 (12:56 am)
Replying to: waldoownz1981 (Sep 07, 2009 9:54 am) The idle on your car is controlled by the ECU (Computer). If it's idling too high, that means the computer is not doing what it should. One of two possible reasons: - The ECU is receiving a bad input, or - The ECU is unable to control something it needs to control   Common problems with inputs - The Mass Air Flow sensor carefully measures the amount of air flowing into your engine and provides that information to the ECU. The ECU then meters the appropriate amount of fuel to the engine. Two issues can occur leading to incorrect MAF signal to the ECU -- Dirty MAF. A thin wire inside the sensor sometimes gets dirty. It can be cleaned by spraying brake cleaner or electrical cleaner on the wire. Don't touch the wire with anything (not even a q-tip) or you'll break it. -- Vacuum leak. A vacuum leak lets excess air into the intake that the ECU doesn't know about. Any vacuum leak will do it, but particularly inspect the large accordion-like pipe between the air cleaner and the engine intake. Cracks sometimes develop in the grooves, and cause air leaks.   - Bad coolant temperature signal. If the coolant temperature signal is wrong, the ECU will incorrectly adjust for temperature. I don't have any diagnostics for this.   On the output side - Sticky Idle Air Control Valve. Can be removed and cleaned. - Sticky EGR Valve. Can be removed and cleaned.   There are other possible causes, but these are common. Replies to this message: autonomous (Sep 10, 2009 8:35 am)
#3543 of 3599 Re: 3000+ rpm when running in park [downtube] by autonomous Sep 10, 2009 (8:35 am)
Replying to: downtube (Sep 10, 2009 12:56 am) Good summary of the likely suspects!   Checking for leaks can be done easily; the others (MAF, Idle Air Control valve, EGR valve) might involve some skill.
#3544 of 3599 Faint Smell of antifreeze by mazdaman23 Sep 16, 2009 (7:07 pm)
I have an 03 Protege LX and for the past year I have smelled antifreeze when I walk in the front of the car. I never see any on the ground, and my water pump was replaced recently, but the faint smell persists. Car never overheats or has any problems. Does anyone else have this problem? Replies to this message: downtube (Sep 17, 2009 5:26 pm) hooker321 (Sep 17, 2009 5:59 pm) mazdaman23 (Sep 18, 2009 2:42 pm)
#3545 of 3599 Re: Faint Smell of antifreeze [mazdaman23] by downtube Sep 17, 2009 (5:26 pm)
Replying to: mazdaman23 (Sep 16, 2009 7:07 pm) Very small leak seems like a good possibility. A close visual inspection with a bright light of all hoses, gaskets, and coolant lines might turn up some evidence of a leak. It's pretty tight in the engine compartment, so you'll only be able to see a percentage of possible locations.   How's the level in the overflow tank?   I'd wait for the car to be dead cold, like overnight, then check the level in the radiator. A pinhole leak will eventually lower coolant level - and usually will grow.   If the coolant isn't going down, you could either wait to see if the leak grows, or take it to a shop to have them try to find it. Replies to this message: hooker321 (Sep 17, 2009 5:59 pm) mazdaman23 (Sep 18, 2009 2:42 pm)
#3546 of 3599 Re: Faint Smell of antifreeze [downtube] by hooker321 Sep 17, 2009 (5:59 pm)
Replying to: downtube (Sep 17, 2009 5:26 pm) MIght be coming from the weep hole on the water pump. BUT its under the timing cover so you will have to remove it to see. The timing cover might be collecting the antifreeze in the bottom. When full enuff it will then drip out. Remove upper and middle timing cover plates and inspect. Also thin old hoses can emit an oder by sweating. Not uncommon either.

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