Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 3:03 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege
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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#3535 of 3742 Re: Help Please!!! [helpme101]
Aug 26, 2009 (12:26 pm)
My husband has a 1993 Mazda Protege and he ran it severly hot to the point where it shut down. The heads are not cracked but the engine now just turns over.
Do you mean the motor is running but the car does not move? If it does move, I suggest you head to your local mechanic. On the other hand, it's almost 17 years old so it may be time ...
#3536 of 3742 Re: Help Please!!! [autonomous]
Aug 26, 2009 (12:32 pm)
No it doesn't move the engine won't start. I realize it is 17 yrs old but we can not afford a new car. I am looking for a helpful answer not a take it to a mechanic answer. Thanks
#3537 of 3742 Re: Help Please!!! [autonomous]
Aug 26, 2009 (6:16 pm)
How do you know the head isn't cracked?
The first thing I'd do is run a compression test. Blown head gasket and/or warped head is a good possibility. You can also look for sign of coolant from the tailpipe, oil in the coolant, or bubbles/churning in the radiator when the engine is cranked.
If the engine got really hot it could have damaged sensors and/or sensor cables. I've seen the crank position sensor cable melted by an overheated engine.
I recently replaced a blown head gasket on a mazda that overheated. Don't be fooled by thinking a head gasket is only $60. The repair cost me about $600, and I did all the labor myself. Overheating can do a lot of damage. I had to replace the radiator, the crank position sensor, top end gasket set, and head bolts. With the engine apart it made sense to replace the timing belt, water pump, both serpentine belts, and radiator hoses.
The guys at clubprotege.com and themazdaforum.com can be helpful. You'll need to provide good information, not just say "please help". Like, how do you know the head isn't cracked? What exactly happened? Have you done any tests? Do you have the mechanical skills to troubleshoot and repair? Don't be offended, but folks will respond better to good solid information than desperate pleas.
#3538 of 3742 Re: Help Please!!! [helpme101]
Aug 26, 2009 (6:55 pm)
You will need to have the Cylinder head worked on. I paid 375.00 for the rebuild and did it myself. Your valves cant close now so you will never get the 195 lbs of compression you need. Your head is prob not cracked tho. The shop will do a pressure check before rebuilding it. I would fix then sell.. or junk the car meaning part it out on ebay! Mine left me stranded on a -30 degree day and I vow to never own a computer controled, timing belt istead of chain, piece of crap again! Mechanical everything, even the fuel pump!
#3539 of 3742 2001 protege died
Aug 31, 2009 (1:50 am)
i need some advise , our 2001 Es has 108,000miles yesterday it just died , we were able to restart it but it would staul out , after running it for a while keeping my foot on the gas slightly it would now stay running but idles low . the engine light came on and is still on . we dont want to use it because we dont want to get stuck on the road , we havent had any problems until now we purchased it new .
any thoughts ? thanks
#3540 of 3742 3000+ rpm when running in park
Sep 07, 2009 (9:54 am)
I have a 97 mazda protege and recently i started having issues where the idle is very high. started with 1500 rpms and now its at 3000. Just wondering if anyone else had the same issue with this car and how did it get resolved.
#3541 of 3742 Re: 2001 protege died [chump2]
Sep 10, 2009 (12:41 am)
Take it to a local auto parts store and have them hook a scanner to it to retrieve the fault code number that's causing the engine light to come on. They will do this for free. Post the information here, or on one of the many Mazda Protege online forums. There are many enthusiasts for this car who are willing to help.
#3542 of 3742 Re: 3000+ rpm when running in park [waldoownz1981]
Sep 10, 2009 (12:56 am)
The idle on your car is controlled by the ECU (Computer). If it's idling too high, that means the computer is not doing what it should. One of two possible reasons:
- The ECU is receiving a bad input, or
- The ECU is unable to control something it needs to control
Common problems with inputs
- The Mass Air Flow sensor carefully measures the amount of air flowing into your engine and provides that information to the ECU. The ECU then meters the appropriate amount of fuel to the engine. Two issues can occur leading to incorrect MAF signal to the ECU
-- Dirty MAF. A thin wire inside the sensor sometimes gets dirty. It can be cleaned by spraying brake cleaner or electrical cleaner on the wire. Don't touch the wire with anything (not even a q-tip) or you'll break it.
-- Vacuum leak. A vacuum leak lets excess air into the intake that the ECU doesn't know about. Any vacuum leak will do it, but particularly inspect the large accordion-like pipe between the air cleaner and the engine intake. Cracks sometimes develop in the grooves, and cause air leaks.
- Bad coolant temperature signal. If the coolant temperature signal is wrong, the ECU will incorrectly adjust for temperature. I don't have any diagnostics for this.
On the output side
- Sticky Idle Air Control Valve. Can be removed and cleaned.
- Sticky EGR Valve. Can be removed and cleaned.
There are other possible causes, but these are common.
#3543 of 3742 Re: 3000+ rpm when running in park [downtube]
Sep 10, 2009 (8:35 am)
Good summary of the likely suspects!
Checking for leaks can be done easily; the others (MAF, Idle Air Control valve, EGR valve) might involve some skill.
#3544 of 3742 Faint Smell of antifreeze
Sep 16, 2009 (7:07 pm)
I have an 03 Protege LX and for the past year I have smelled antifreeze when I walk in the front of the car. I never see any on the ground, and my water pump was replaced recently, but the faint smell persists. Car never overheats or has any problems. Does anyone else have this problem?