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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3600 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: downtube (Aug 04, 2009 7:38 pm) I meant to type Catalytic Converter - not carburetor, probably makes more sense now. Yes - we know now that blinking light is bad. My wife didn't accurately describe how bad the issue was, plus we were having 10F weather and I thought it could be related to the cold. |
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Replying to: downtube (Aug 02, 2009 5:31 pm) I'll check lines, If nothing, then off to the dealer. Thanks downtube. O15 |
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Hopefully someone can help me out. As my screen name implies, I'm new to car repair but anxious to learn. The problem I am currently having is that the battery light in my 2000 Protege 1.8L has come on. Initially it was only intermittently after sitting at a light for a minute or more but has gotten progressively worse over the last 3-4 days. I have already replaced the battery but the problem continues. I have taken the car out several times for long highway drives with only the running lights on to ensure that the battery I installed did not simply need to be charged itself. Though the car starts without issue, it is now to the point that any time the rpm's drop below 2400 the battery light comes on. I am now figuring that the alternator needs replacing and am considering attempting to do this myself but don't want to go to all the trouble and expense if it turns out this isn't the problem. The only other thing I can think of is a short somewhere though it seems that since the problem is getting worse this is not likely the case. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.  Edit: I also checked the belt which seems to be in good condition (it was replaced several months ago). If it appears to be the alternator, any advice re: OEM/new/rebuilt? Dealership wants 384, can get a rebuilt one for 145 or aftermarket for 200
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Replying to: newbiemech (Aug 12, 2009 6:11 am) You may be right, as your car is almost 10 years old. How many miles on the vehicle? Assuming you had the timing belt changed, did you not have the belt for the alternator changed at the same time? My understanding is that the parts (i.e. the alternator and belt) are only half the battle, getting to them is where the real expense is; that's the major reason why changing a timing belt is so costly. I recommend a diagnostic is done before doing any repair work to avoid replacing parts that are not a problem. |
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Replying to: newbiemech (Aug 12, 2009 6:11 am) I'd say the #1 thing to check is the alternator belt tension. Technique should be in the manual. New belts do stretch and settle in after installation, so that could be it. Buy a battery terminal cleaner (wire brush thing), and clean both the terminals and the posts. A poor connection to the battery could be the cause. Check for corrosion on the battery cables near the battery, and replace if badly corroded. Of course make sure the terminals are on tight. Since you've changed the battery, next would be the alternator. Most auto parts stores these days will test the alternator for free, but you have to remove it first. I wouldn't go cheap on the alternator, unless you find replacing it enjoyable. |
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| I would like to know if someone here could tell me how to change a speed sensor on a mazda 2001. pictures would be great thanks STEVE | |
| Ok I'm really new to this but hope it works. My husband has a 1993 Mazda Protege and he ran it severly hot to the point where it shut down. The heads are not cracked but the engine now just turns over. We can not afford a new car so I am hoping someone here may be able to tell us what is wrong with it. | |
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Replying to: helpme101 (Aug 25, 2009 11:03 am) Do you mean the motor is running but the car does not move? If it does move, I suggest you head to your local mechanic. On the other hand, it's almost 17 years old so it may be time ...
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Replying to: autonomous (Aug 26, 2009 12:26 pm)
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Replying to: autonomous (Aug 26, 2009 12:26 pm) The first thing I'd do is run a compression test. Blown head gasket and/or warped head is a good possibility. You can also look for sign of coolant from the tailpipe, oil in the coolant, or bubbles/churning in the radiator when the engine is cranked. If the engine got really hot it could have damaged sensors and/or sensor cables. I've seen the crank position sensor cable melted by an overheated engine. I recently replaced a blown head gasket on a mazda that overheated. Don't be fooled by thinking a head gasket is only $60. The repair cost me about $600, and I did all the labor myself. Overheating can do a lot of damage. I had to replace the radiator, the crank position sensor, top end gasket set, and head bolts. With the engine apart it made sense to replace the timing belt, water pump, both serpentine belts, and radiator hoses. The guys at clubprotege.com and themazdaforum.com can be helpful. You'll need to provide good information, not just say "please help". Like, how do you know the head isn't cracked? What exactly happened? Have you done any tests? Do you have the mechanical skills to troubleshoot and repair? Don't be offended, but folks will respond better to good solid information than desperate pleas. |
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