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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3600 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Can anyone help i am looking to replace a burned out OD dash light on a 2000 Mazda Protege DX. There are no shifting issues or blinking of the light it looks like the bulb JUST burned out. Thanks for the help>>> MNF . |
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I had a bad shimmy problem for a while (bad tires) and the car got shook up pretty good with a lot of vibration. Something shook loose in the steering column area affecting the instruments. when the lights are turned on the tailights will come on sporadically. If you wiggle the light switch, sometimes the tailights come on--sometimes they go off. How do I go about fixing this? I can hear a switch going on and off when I jiggle the lights arm.
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After replacing plugs, my 03 P5 is now idling at 800+ RPM vs 500. Is it possible to manually adjust the idle speed? Thanks O15
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Replying to: oldman15 (Aug 02, 2009 5:56 am) Idle is controlled by the ECU (computer), not by a screw like in the old days. If the idle is too high, then something is wrong and needs to be fixed. A good possibility is that a vacuum line got knocked loose when the plugs were changed. Any air leak downstream of the MAF sensor on the intake will screw up idle. That means any vacuum line or anything between the intake manifold upstream to the MAF.
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Hello all, I searched the forum for other instances of people having carburetors going bad on Protege's, but I must be the exception. My wife's '02 Protege5 began having pretty severe issues while driving over 50 mpg with the engine running at 50% and the engine light blinking - but the issues were occasional and we delayed getting them looked at for a couple of weeks. Big mistake! Turns out the engine coils had gone bad (2 of the 4). So I got them replaced, seemed to be fine in running when I drove away from the shop. The next day the engine light was back on with a code that the carburetor had gone bad. Long story short - in delaying the fix of the engine issues the gas/air mix was thrown off, ruining the carburetor. I had quotes for around $1100 to fix it but found a shop here in Columbus to it for $300 - which was very good in my mind. So this all went down six months ago but I was shocked when I searched and found seemingly no one else having engine coil pack and/or carburetor problems. We're now at 105k miles and no issues for the past few months but that was a frustrating setback. Overall I like the car still just thought I should share my experience.
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Replying to: bobcat79 (Aug 02, 2009 8:11 pm) Coils do go bad, but for two to go bad on a 7 year old car seems odd. In the future, if the check engine light (CEL) blinks, stop driving immediately. If it's on but not blinking, you can drive without expecting any damage to occur. But a blinking CEL means to stop driving immediately or serious engine damage can occur.
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Replying to: downtube (Aug 04, 2009 7:38 pm) I meant to type Catalytic Converter - not carburetor, probably makes more sense now. Yes - we know now that blinking light is bad. My wife didn't accurately describe how bad the issue was, plus we were having 10F weather and I thought it could be related to the cold. |
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Replying to: downtube (Aug 02, 2009 5:31 pm) I'll check lines, If nothing, then off to the dealer. Thanks downtube. O15 |
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Hopefully someone can help me out. As my screen name implies, I'm new to car repair but anxious to learn. The problem I am currently having is that the battery light in my 2000 Protege 1.8L has come on. Initially it was only intermittently after sitting at a light for a minute or more but has gotten progressively worse over the last 3-4 days. I have already replaced the battery but the problem continues. I have taken the car out several times for long highway drives with only the running lights on to ensure that the battery I installed did not simply need to be charged itself. Though the car starts without issue, it is now to the point that any time the rpm's drop below 2400 the battery light comes on. I am now figuring that the alternator needs replacing and am considering attempting to do this myself but don't want to go to all the trouble and expense if it turns out this isn't the problem. The only other thing I can think of is a short somewhere though it seems that since the problem is getting worse this is not likely the case. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.  Edit: I also checked the belt which seems to be in good condition (it was replaced several months ago). If it appears to be the alternator, any advice re: OEM/new/rebuilt? Dealership wants 384, can get a rebuilt one for 145 or aftermarket for 200
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