Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 3:03 AM
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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#3517 of 3742 Reset Code Problem
Jul 13, 2009 (8:40 am)
Searching for answers- HELP PLEASE ! I have 2000 Mazda Protege ES that came standard w/ a 1.8 ltr engine. I bought this car used & love it. Problem : While changing the timing belt & parts, I have found out that the engine was changed to a 2001 2.0 ltr ES. I keep coming up with Engine Codes will not reset readings, every time I try to have an emissions inspection done. Have gone through MUCH grief with the state of NC & quite a few insp. stations. What, if anything can be done ? I'd like to keep it & drive it.
#3518 of 3742 Re: Reset Code Problem [krzykj1]
Jul 13, 2009 (7:32 pm)
You can take to to most any major automotive store, and they will scan the car at no charge and tell you exactly what codes are coming up. They usually even have some suggested causes for those codes. Do that, then post the codes on here.
#3519 of 3742 Re: Reset Code Problem [downtube]
Jul 14, 2009 (7:15 pm)
Not coming up with any codes. It's reading "Codes Will Not Reset".
#3520 of 3742 engine problems with 94 protege... clutch?
Jul 17, 2009 (7:03 pm)
I have a problem with my 1994 protege. It was working fine for a long time, but I recently took a 120 mile road trip, and now it's... not working so well. The engine stutters and feels like it's not giving any power. This seems to happen mainly at 1st 2nd and 3rd gears - things seem to work okay at higher gears... although the problem does seem to be getting worse. I drove it to the store and back to test it out, and I heard what seemed to be a metallic grinding or scraping sound (maybe) coming from the bottom of the car.
From what I've read on this forum and some other places, it sounds like it might be the clutch slipping. What do you guys think? Futhermore, I am currently 120 miles away from home - if the clutch is slipping, is the car okay to drive for that long? (uphill - along I-40 from hickory to asheville, nc, in case anyone is interested)
Thanks in advance. I would really appreciate any help thrown my way here...
oh yeah: the car has 170k+ miles on it. don't know full vehicle history (bought it used a couple months ago), although title check showed no salvage, etc. stuff. No problems to this point, except an axle that had to replaced (front right).
#3521 of 3742 2000 Protege dash light
Jul 18, 2009 (6:40 am)
Can anyone help i am looking to replace a burned out OD dash light on a 2000 Mazda Protege DX. There are no shifting issues or blinking of the light it looks like the bulb JUST burned out. Thanks for the help>>>
#3522 of 3742 1991 Protege tailights on the fritz
Jul 29, 2009 (4:48 pm)
I had a bad shimmy problem for a while (bad tires) and the car got shook up pretty good with a lot of vibration. Something shook loose in the steering column area affecting the instruments. when the lights are turned on the tailights will come on sporadically. If you wiggle the light switch, sometimes the tailights come on--sometimes they go off. How do I go about fixing this? I can hear a switch going on and off when I jiggle the lights arm.
Aug 02, 2009 (5:56 am)
After replacing plugs, my 03 P5 is now idling at 800+ RPM vs 500.
Is it possible to manually adjust the idle speed?
#3525 of 3742 Re: Idle Speed [oldman15]
Aug 02, 2009 (5:31 pm)
You don't want to do that.
Idle is controlled by the ECU (computer), not by a screw like in the old days. If the idle is too high, then something is wrong and needs to be fixed. A good possibility is that a vacuum line got knocked loose when the plugs were changed. Any air leak downstream of the MAF sensor on the intake will screw up idle. That means any vacuum line or anything between the intake manifold upstream to the MAF.
#3526 of 3742 Protege5 Carburetor Issues
Aug 02, 2009 (8:11 pm)
I searched the forum for other instances of people having carburetors going bad on Protege's, but I must be the exception.
My wife's '02 Protege5 began having pretty severe issues while driving over 50 mpg with the engine running at 50% and the engine light blinking - but the issues were occasional and we delayed getting them looked at for a couple of weeks. Big mistake!
Turns out the engine coils had gone bad (2 of the 4). So I got them replaced, seemed to be fine in running when I drove away from the shop. The next day the engine light was back on with a code that the carburetor had gone bad.
Long story short - in delaying the fix of the engine issues the gas/air mix was thrown off, ruining the carburetor. I had quotes for around $1100 to fix it but found a shop here in Columbus to it for $300 - which was very good in my mind.
So this all went down six months ago but I was shocked when I searched and found seemingly no one else having engine coil pack and/or carburetor problems.
We're now at 105k miles and no issues for the past few months but that was a frustrating setback. Overall I like the car still just thought I should share my experience.