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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

3600 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM
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Hi everyone -- hopefully someone can give me some advice. I'm driving a 1995 Mazda Protege which has some engine noise under load and a loss of power. It's been getting progressively worse over the years, and it's now to the point where I have almost no acceleration at all, and I almost have to floor it just to maintain highway speeds (especially if running the A/C). There's also a loud noise coming from the front of the car when I accelerate -- my dad calls it a "birdcage" noise, but it sounds like some kind of rattling. All the mechanics I've taken it to over the years have just called it engine ping and suggested I use some fuel injector cleaner, but that obviously hasn't helped. It doesn't make the noise while idling -- only while pressing down on the gas pedal, and the noise gets louder as I press harder. I'm pretty sure it's engine issues, but I don't know exactly what it is. Does anyone have advice? Thanks in advance! |
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Searching for answers- HELP PLEASE ! I have 2000 Mazda Protege ES that came standard w/ a 1.8 ltr engine. I bought this car used & love it. Problem : While changing the timing belt & parts, I have found out that the engine was changed to a 2001 2.0 ltr ES. I keep coming up with Engine Codes will not reset readings, every time I try to have an emissions inspection done. Have gone through MUCH grief with the state of NC & quite a few insp. stations. What, if anything can be done ? I'd like to keep it & drive it.
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Replying to: krzykj1 (Jul 13, 2009 8:40 am)
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Replying to: downtube (Jul 13, 2009 7:32 pm) |
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Hey everyone! I have a problem with my 1994 protege. It was working fine for a long time, but I recently took a 120 mile road trip, and now it's... not working so well. The engine stutters and feels like it's not giving any power. This seems to happen mainly at 1st 2nd and 3rd gears - things seem to work okay at higher gears... although the problem does seem to be getting worse. I drove it to the store and back to test it out, and I heard what seemed to be a metallic grinding or scraping sound (maybe) coming from the bottom of the car. From what I've read on this forum and some other places, it sounds like it might be the clutch slipping. What do you guys think? Futhermore, I am currently 120 miles away from home - if the clutch is slipping, is the car okay to drive for that long? (uphill - along I-40 from hickory to asheville, nc, in case anyone is interested) Thanks in advance. I would really appreciate any help thrown my way here... oh yeah: the car has 170k+ miles on it. don't know full vehicle history (bought it used a couple months ago), although title check showed no salvage, etc. stuff. No problems to this point, except an axle that had to replaced (front right). |
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Can anyone help i am looking to replace a burned out OD dash light on a 2000 Mazda Protege DX. There are no shifting issues or blinking of the light it looks like the bulb JUST burned out. Thanks for the help>>> MNF . |
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I had a bad shimmy problem for a while (bad tires) and the car got shook up pretty good with a lot of vibration. Something shook loose in the steering column area affecting the instruments. when the lights are turned on the tailights will come on sporadically. If you wiggle the light switch, sometimes the tailights come on--sometimes they go off. How do I go about fixing this? I can hear a switch going on and off when I jiggle the lights arm.
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After replacing plugs, my 03 P5 is now idling at 800+ RPM vs 500. Is it possible to manually adjust the idle speed? Thanks O15
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Replying to: oldman15 (Aug 02, 2009 5:56 am) Idle is controlled by the ECU (computer), not by a screw like in the old days. If the idle is too high, then something is wrong and needs to be fixed. A good possibility is that a vacuum line got knocked loose when the plugs were changed. Any air leak downstream of the MAF sensor on the intake will screw up idle. That means any vacuum line or anything between the intake manifold upstream to the MAF.
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