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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3600 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: primemover (Jun 17, 2009 12:54 am) |
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| Pictures of correct factory timing marks from a car is all we need to see if we are idiots. Someone please take your valve cover off, put it at top dead center, and snap a picture of the cams and gears. How can we do any work when the book is telling us to do something wrong or telling nothing at all for the 1.6L. Its a joke. All we need is a never toyed with 1.6L picture with the timing marks and cam gears placement at TDC. If its correct then we need to look elsewhere. Like I am with buying a fuel pressure guage that goes above 30 lol. Just waiting for it to arrive hoping this week! | |
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Replying to: ddekleuver (Mar 15, 2009 12:35 pm) I signed up for this car blog thing because I read your March 15th post, and the exact same thing has been going on with my car for the past 3 or so years. I've dealt with it because it has been so random, and I usually can get where I need to go, but recently it has gotten to the point where I am not sure if I'll get from point A to point B anymore and I'm sick of it! (In fact, this past weekend I also had to drive back from a trip I started at 55 MPH and then get a rental.) The only differences that I can notice is that mine happens during any speeds (but it's worst on the highway), and I didn't have a cylinder misfire (not quite sure what that is, though). My check engine light has never come on, and the computer codes show nothing. Sorry, I know there was a big long discussion after your initial post, but could you possibly recap in very simple terms for me? Was your problem ever totally fixed? I am not very car savvy, but mine is currently at a mazda dealership being tested, so I am just wondering what you found out. Thanks a ton!! I appreciate any insights!
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Replying to: cubbygrl17 (Jun 22, 2009 8:49 am) after i had gone to the dealer i had so many things done and actually it was not what it seems it was ,i have a mazda protege 97 ,this car had so many things done,after i had all this things done my real problem was the timing belt and the water pump,but i also did a completely tune up (coil -rotor- o ring-cap plugs-wires- clean fuel injectors replace one , maf sensor-replace connectors-air filter-check all the water and air hose from the radiator and egr valve and fuel line-also i had a new egr valve-a new idle air control valve ,fuel filter,fuel regulator, clean the intake manifold,so many things before i had the timing belt and the water pump.so i will suggest before you try to do so many of this things you should have an honest meccanic check it out and give you an estimate,also if you are not getting enough power it could be a transmission issue and fuel pump issue,or related to fuel,guessing can be expence try to minimize the real problem,one by one,i started that the computer tells me it was an egr valve and it follows by other but the computer was wrong so many times, it give an engine light because there was other real problems causing it ,anyway good luck. |
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| I have a 2002 Protege LX with 63,000. Recently while driving, it will not stay in overdrive. Pops out, and I let off the gas and it slips in, put on the gas, slips out again. Does not do any slipping in any other gear, just overdrive. Any ideas? AAMCO wants to rebuild the entrie transmission, but I strongly believe this is not the case because they are not certain where the problem sits. I'm thinking something electrical?? It doesn't have many miles to warrant a total transmission rebuild. | |
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Hi, I'm looking into buying a 2002 or 2003 Mazda Protege with around 70,000 miles to get to around while I'm still in college. This will be my first car so I would appreciate some advice on the following: - Is there much difference in reliability between the 2002 and 2003 models? - Are there things in particular I should look for when I go check out the car? I've read here about the EGR valve, anything I can check for related to that? Any other problems? - I know it depends on a lot of factors, but overall would you say it is a good purchase that won't give me too much trouble? Since this will be my first car I am a little nervous about getting a lemon, so I would really appreciate your input. Thanks. 
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Replying to: jenni81 (Jul 05, 2009 9:54 pm) No, there is no big difference in reliability. Are there things in particular I should look for when I go check out the car? I've read here about the EGR valve, anything I can check for related to that? Any other problems? Rust around the wheel wells can be a problem. Also, check the state of the disc brakes to see that they do not need replacement. I know it depends on a lot of factors, but overall would you say it is a good purchase that won't give me too much trouble? Overall, a reliable car. Check Consumer Reports for their recommendations on used cars. To be sure the car has been well maintained ask the seller if they have all the service records and have the car checked at a mechanic of your choosing. Be wary of sellers who do not want to do this. If a seller claims the car is fine they should feel confirdent about it passing this test. Your mechanic will also provide valuable information about items that may need to be addressed in the near future (such as worn tires) so that you can reduce the surprises after your purchase. Final words about Proteges: great cars! |
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Replying to: jenni81 (Jul 05, 2009 9:54 pm) - How does the transmission perform? Drive it on the highway, noting how the transmission shifts as you accelerate onto the highway and how it downshifts as you decelerate. If you detect anything rough or jerky, or if it fails to stay in overdrive while at speed, stay away. - When you turn the key on, the Check Engine light will come on momentarily as a test. Make sure it really comes on - otherwise it may have been tampered with. Also make sure the light goes out once the engine is started. - Pay careful attention to how the car idles in Park, and in gear while stopped. It should idle smooth and not too fast. EGR problems, IAC valve problems, or vacuum leaks will cause idle problems. - If it has power windows, make sure they all roll up and down. - Drive slowly over a speed bump or similar, and listen for clunks in either the front end or back. Rear endlinks aren't too expensive to have replaced, but front ones are. |
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Replying to: jenni81 (Jul 05, 2009 9:54 pm) To clarify, you mentioned, Pay careful attention to how the car idles in Park, and in gear while stopped I assume this is for an automatic transmission? If so, then for a manual does the same apply when idling in neutral? Also if anyone else has some other input it would be appreciated.
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Replying to: jenni81 (Jul 06, 2009 6:42 pm) In either case, a vacuum leak will generally cause the engine to idle too low to the point of stalling, then overcorrect and rev too high, then drop down start dropping too low. The air/fuel ratio is wrong and the computer can't compensate. Typically they will run fine when not idling, when the amount of air leaking is small compared to the total airflow. BTW, I love my protege. I've been looking for another one for my kids to drive.
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