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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

3600 messages,  Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda Protege, Sedan


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#3494 of 3600
Re: California Smog Test Failure [aj2000] by 302boss
Jun 02, 2009 (8:59 pm)
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Replying to: aj2000 (Jul 29, 2004 2:25 pm)

I own a 2000 Mazda Protege and it recently failed a CA smog test. The failure was a MIL OBD failure to communicate. In this case, there was nothing wrong with the car, computer or wiring. The battery had been replaced a couple of days before the smog test. The computers memory of recent driving conditions was erased when the battery was removed. The failure was because the computer was not ready to be tested. The car needs to be driven an unknown number of trips of various lengths, speeds and conditions and the computer will store this information. My mechanic said to drive it as much as I can and bring it back and he will check to see if it is ready to be tested. When it is ready, take it back to the smog test center for retest. This is one of the strangest things I have ever heard about a modern automobile.
#3495 of 3600
Re: California Smog Test Failure [302boss] by autonomous
Jun 03, 2009 (8:05 am)
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Replying to: 302boss (Jun 02, 2009 8:59 pm)

The car needs to be driven an unknown number of trips of various lengths, speeds and conditions and the computer will store this information.
 
Interesting. I did not realize that the test used the history from the car's computer.
 
In Ontario Canada we have a Drive Clean Emission program that measures the emission systems of the car every second year. The thirty minute test involves measuring the output at idle and 40 km/hr of hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and nitrous oxide (NO) from the tailpipe. Mechanics recommend that prior to testing the car be warmed up by driving it on the highway for a half hour or more. One way of ensuring positive results is to have a fuel system cleaning done before the test.
#3496 of 3600
Re: California Smog Test Failure [302boss] by downtube
Jun 03, 2009 (5:47 pm)
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Replying to: 302boss (Jun 02, 2009 8:59 pm)

This is one of the strangest things I have ever heard about a modern automobile.
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of On Board Diagnostics. The complexity of the OBD software in your car's computer rivals that of the actual control system it's monitoring.
 
Some monitors only run on cold start. Some only run once a certain temperature is reached, and engine is operating at a certain speed and torque output. It may take several drive cycles over several days to get all monitors to run enough to satisfy the smog test.
#3497 of 3600
2000 Protege 1.6L DOHC won't idle, runs rough by primemover
Jun 17, 2009 (12:54 am)
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My Protege, w/ 94,000 miles on it had a radiator leak that caused an engine overheating. I replaced the radiator and while I was inspired, I replaced the timing belt and water pump. That is when my problems began. I was using the Haynes Repair Manual (#61015) and the timing marks illustration for the 1.6L is wrong. I finally got the right information and put things back together. It starts and does not display any check engine errors (no CEL and I do have a code reader, but no codes are stored.) If I start the car and do nothing else, the engine will die very quickly. If I play with the throttle, I can keep the car running but have to continually move the throttle or it will die. The engine runs rough and it is not burning the fuel completely. The plugs (new) are now coated with soot. I could not keep the car running long enough to get it fully warmed up (radiator cap was still cool) but I checked the wet/dry compression while the engine was still kinda warm.
 
Dry: #1 140 #2 140 #3 145 #4 150
Wet:#1 155 #2 145 #3 170 #4 160
 
I checked for vacuum leaks and found none. I cleaned the throttle body and the EGR valve, which had much carbon. This car does not have a distributor and I have ohm'ed out the crankshaft and the cam shaft sensor. They check fine.
 
I wonder: While I am confident that the (DOHC) timing marks are lined up properly (Intake "I" (left) at 12 O'clock and the line 3 O'clock, Exhaust "E" (right) at 12 O'clock and the line at 9 o'clock) - with the #1 piston top dead center, I wonder if my timing belt (new) has become stretched with all the putting on/taking off.
 
Please post suggestions / theories about what could be the cause of the no idle/rough running. I welcome _all_ ideas. Thanks in advance!
#3498 of 3600
Re: 2000 Protege 1.6L DOHC won't idle, runs rough [primemover] by hooker321
Jun 17, 2009 (11:44 am)
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Replying to: primemover (Jun 17, 2009 12:54 am)

Sounds like my problem! My car is still in the garage from Jan 09'. It overheated blew the radiator and left me stranded 15 miles away in -30 degree weather in the middle of corn fields! I Did find out my valves were shot from trying to make it while over heating. I had the head serviced for 375 bucks along with all new gaskets 100 bucks only to have now what sounds like the same problem as you. It will start then die start then die! it did run once until it came to temp I was like cool I will drive it but as soon as I put it in reverse it died! then didnt restart for an hour or so.... I have a fuel pressure tester coming to check fuel pressure while it starts n dies. I am hoping to get this junk running so I can scrap it! I hate mazda! I hate computer controlled cars! Never again will I buy a car that depends on a computer! I bought a 1986 ford 4x4 that Im converting to mechanical fuel pump and carburator controlled with a gas tank in the bed. No more depending on computers for me! I dont know what I was thinking buying this junk mazda! If you have any advice I could use it and I am glad to be of help if I have been! ...Robert
#3499 of 3600
Re: 2000 Protege 1.6L DOHC won't idle, runs rough [primemover] by downtube
Jun 17, 2009 (8:35 pm)
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Replying to: primemover (Jun 17, 2009 12:54 am)

What you describe sounds exactly like improper timing. Maybe time to take it to a professional to get the timing right.
#3500 of 3600
PICTURES by hooker321
Jun 18, 2009 (12:42 pm)
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Pictures of correct factory timing marks from a car is all we need to see if we are idiots. Someone please take your valve cover off, put it at top dead center, and snap a picture of the cams and gears. How can we do any work when the book is telling us to do something wrong or telling nothing at all for the 1.6L. Its a joke. All we need is a never toyed with 1.6L picture with the timing marks and cam gears placement at TDC. If its correct then we need to look elsewhere. Like I am with buying a fuel pressure guage that goes above 30 lol. Just waiting for it to arrive hoping this week!
#3501 of 3600
Re: 03 Protege RPM/Losing Power [ddekleuver] by cubbygrl17
Jun 22, 2009 (8:49 am)
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Replying to: ddekleuver (Mar 15, 2009 12:35 pm)

Hey...not sure if you're still monitoring this discussion or not, but I thought I'd give it a try anyway...
 
I signed up for this car blog thing because I read your March 15th post, and the exact same thing has been going on with my car for the past 3 or so years. I've dealt with it because it has been so random, and I usually can get where I need to go, but recently it has gotten to the point where I am not sure if I'll get from point A to point B anymore and I'm sick of it! (In fact, this past weekend I also had to drive back from a trip I started at 55 MPH and then get a rental.)
 
The only differences that I can notice is that mine happens during any speeds (but it's worst on the highway), and I didn't have a cylinder misfire (not quite sure what that is, though). My check engine light has never come on, and the computer codes show nothing.
 
Sorry, I know there was a big long discussion after your initial post, but could you possibly recap in very simple terms for me? Was your problem ever totally fixed? I am not very car savvy, but mine is currently at a mazda dealership being tested, so I am just wondering what you found out.
 
Thanks a ton!! I appreciate any insights!
#3502 of 3600
Re: 03 Protege RPM/Losing Power [cubbygrl17] by giacomod
Jun 22, 2009 (9:12 am)
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Replying to: cubbygrl17 (Jun 22, 2009 8:49 am)

Hello
after i had gone to the dealer i had so many things done and actually it was not what it seems it was ,i have a mazda protege 97 ,this car had so many things done,after i had all this things done my real problem was the timing belt and the water pump,but i also did a completely tune up (coil -rotor- o ring-cap plugs-wires-
clean fuel injectors replace one , maf sensor-replace connectors-air filter-check all the water and air hose from the radiator and egr valve and fuel line-also i had a new egr valve-a new idle air control valve ,fuel filter,fuel regulator, clean the intake manifold,so many things before i had the timing belt and the water pump.so i will suggest before you try to do so many of this things you should have an honest meccanic check it out and give you an estimate,also if you are not getting enough power it could be a transmission issue and fuel pump issue,or related to fuel,guessing can be expence try to minimize the real problem,one by one,i started that the computer tells me it was an egr valve and it follows by other but the computer was wrong so many times, it give an engine light because there was other real problems causing it ,anyway good luck.
#3503 of 3600
Protege Transmission - Overdrive Gear by brian374
Jun 26, 2009 (3:41 am)
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I have a 2002 Protege LX with 63,000. Recently while driving, it will not stay in overdrive. Pops out, and I let off the gas and it slips in, put on the gas, slips out again. Does not do any slipping in any other gear, just overdrive. Any ideas? AAMCO wants to rebuild the entrie transmission, but I strongly believe this is not the case because they are not certain where the problem sits. I'm thinking something electrical?? It doesn't have many miles to warrant a total transmission rebuild.

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