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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

3600 messages,  Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM

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#3491 of 3600 engine vibration by sir_dude May 12, 2009 (12:35 pm)
I own a 2000 protege es 1.8L with under 45k miles. I bought brand new. It's developed an engine vibration after I start it. It happens when the engine is completely cold, I turn on the fan for defrost and when the defrost kicks on the vibration starts and when it kicks off the vibration stops. Also, the transmission has to be in gear, not in Park or Neutral. As the engine warms up to normal operating temp, the vibration almost completely disappears. Has anyone else experienced this problem?   This is my 2nd protege and has been a great car. Replies to this message: autonomous (May 13, 2009 2:07 pm) sir_dude (May 15, 2009 1:15 pm)
#3492 of 3600 Re: engine vibration [sir_dude] by autonomous May 13, 2009 (2:07 pm)
Replying to: sir_dude (May 12, 2009 12:35 pm) I turn on the fan for defrost What do you mean? What are you "defrost"ing? Replies to this message: sir_dude (May 15, 2009 1:15 pm)
#3493 of 3600 Re: engine vibration [autonomous] by sir_dude May 15, 2009 (1:15 pm)
Replying to: autonomous (May 13, 2009 2:07 pm) The frost from off of the windows.
#3494 of 3600 Re: California Smog Test Failure [aj2000] by 302boss Jun 02, 2009 (8:59 pm)
Replying to: aj2000 (Jul 29, 2004 2:25 pm) I own a 2000 Mazda Protege and it recently failed a CA smog test. The failure was a MIL OBD failure to communicate. In this case, there was nothing wrong with the car, computer or wiring. The battery had been replaced a couple of days before the smog test. The computers memory of recent driving conditions was erased when the battery was removed. The failure was because the computer was not ready to be tested. The car needs to be driven an unknown number of trips of various lengths, speeds and conditions and the computer will store this information. My mechanic said to drive it as much as I can and bring it back and he will check to see if it is ready to be tested. When it is ready, take it back to the smog test center for retest. This is one of the strangest things I have ever heard about a modern automobile. Replies to this message: autonomous (Jun 03, 2009 8:05 am) downtube (Jun 03, 2009 5:47 pm)
#3495 of 3600 Re: California Smog Test Failure [302boss] by autonomous Jun 03, 2009 (8:05 am)
Replying to: 302boss (Jun 02, 2009 8:59 pm) The car needs to be driven an unknown number of trips of various lengths, speeds and conditions and the computer will store this information.   Interesting. I did not realize that the test used the history from the car's computer.   In Ontario Canada we have a Drive Clean Emission program that measures the emission systems of the car every second year. The thirty minute test involves measuring the output at idle and 40 km/hr of hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and nitrous oxide (NO) from the tailpipe. Mechanics recommend that prior to testing the car be warmed up by driving it on the highway for a half hour or more. One way of ensuring positive results is to have a fuel system cleaning done before the test.
#3496 of 3600 Re: California Smog Test Failure [302boss] by downtube Jun 03, 2009 (5:47 pm)
Replying to: 302boss (Jun 02, 2009 8:59 pm) This is one of the strangest things I have ever heard about a modern automobile.   Welcome to the wonderful world of On Board Diagnostics. The complexity of the OBD software in your car's computer rivals that of the actual control system it's monitoring.   Some monitors only run on cold start. Some only run once a certain temperature is reached, and engine is operating at a certain speed and torque output. It may take several drive cycles over several days to get all monitors to run enough to satisfy the smog test.
#3497 of 3600 2000 Protege 1.6L DOHC won't idle, runs rough by primemover Jun 17, 2009 (12:54 am)
My Protege, w/ 94,000 miles on it had a radiator leak that caused an engine overheating. I replaced the radiator and while I was inspired, I replaced the timing belt and water pump. That is when my problems began. I was using the Haynes Repair Manual (#61015) and the timing marks illustration for the 1.6L is wrong. I finally got the right information and put things back together. It starts and does not display any check engine errors (no CEL and I do have a code reader, but no codes are stored.) If I start the car and do nothing else, the engine will die very quickly. If I play with the throttle, I can keep the car running but have to continually move the throttle or it will die. The engine runs rough and it is not burning the fuel completely. The plugs (new) are now coated with soot. I could not keep the car running long enough to get it fully warmed up (radiator cap was still cool) but I checked the wet/dry compression while the engine was still kinda warm.   Dry: #1 140 #2 140 #3 145 #4 150 Wet:#1 155 #2 145 #3 170 #4 160   I checked for vacuum leaks and found none. I cleaned the throttle body and the EGR valve, which had much carbon. This car does not have a distributor and I have ohm'ed out the crankshaft and the cam shaft sensor. They check fine.   I wonder: While I am confident that the (DOHC) timing marks are lined up properly (Intake "I" (left) at 12 O'clock and the line 3 O'clock, Exhaust "E" (right) at 12 O'clock and the line at 9 o'clock) - with the #1 piston top dead center, I wonder if my timing belt (new) has become stretched with all the putting on/taking off.   Please post suggestions / theories about what could be the cause of the no idle/rough running. I welcome _all_ ideas. Thanks in advance! Replies to this message: hooker321 (Jun 17, 2009 11:44 am) downtube (Jun 17, 2009 8:35 pm) stmyers (Jul 09, 2009 10:01 am) autonomous (Jul 09, 2009 10:40 am) stmyers (Jul 09, 2009 12:01 pm) and 2 more...
#3498 of 3600 Re: 2000 Protege 1.6L DOHC won't idle, runs rough [primemover] by hooker321 Jun 17, 2009 (11:44 am)
Replying to: primemover (Jun 17, 2009 12:54 am) Sounds like my problem! My car is still in the garage from Jan 09'. It overheated blew the radiator and left me stranded 15 miles away in -30 degree weather in the middle of corn fields! I Did find out my valves were shot from trying to make it while over heating. I had the head serviced for 375 bucks along with all new gaskets 100 bucks only to have now what sounds like the same problem as you. It will start then die start then die! it did run once until it came to temp I was like cool I will drive it but as soon as I put it in reverse it died! then didnt restart for an hour or so.... I have a fuel pressure tester coming to check fuel pressure while it starts n dies. I am hoping to get this junk running so I can scrap it! I hate mazda! I hate computer controlled cars! Never again will I buy a car that depends on a computer! I bought a 1986 ford 4x4 that Im converting to mechanical fuel pump and carburator controlled with a gas tank in the bed. No more depending on computers for me! I dont know what I was thinking buying this junk mazda! If you have any advice I could use it and I am glad to be of help if I have been! ...Robert
#3499 of 3600 Re: 2000 Protege 1.6L DOHC won't idle, runs rough [primemover] by downtube Jun 17, 2009 (8:35 pm)
Replying to: primemover (Jun 17, 2009 12:54 am) What you describe sounds exactly like improper timing. Maybe time to take it to a professional to get the timing right.
#3500 of 3600 PICTURES by hooker321 Jun 18, 2009 (12:42 pm)
Pictures of correct factory timing marks from a car is all we need to see if we are idiots. Someone please take your valve cover off, put it at top dead center, and snap a picture of the cams and gears. How can we do any work when the book is telling us to do something wrong or telling nothing at all for the 1.6L. Its a joke. All we need is a never toyed with 1.6L picture with the timing marks and cam gears placement at TDC. If its correct then we need to look elsewhere. Like I am with buying a fuel pressure guage that goes above 30 lol. Just waiting for it to arrive hoping this week!

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