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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

3600 messages,  Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM

You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Mazda Protege, Sedan


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#3488 of 3600
Re: 2002 Mazda Protege ES: Gas smells coming from air vents [benoit6] by benoit6
May 08, 2009 (3:14 am)
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Replying to: benoit6 (May 01, 2009 3:11 pm)

Okay, I still have the exhaust smell. Also, I'm experiencing idle surges on cold starts. The RPMS will jump from 1000 to 2000 back down to 500. Now what is going on? I'm suspecting the Idle Air Control valve may be faulty, but I don't know. I'm going to take the car back to the dealer. Has anyone else experience this issue?
#3489 of 3600
Re: 2002 Mazda Protege ES: Gas smells coming from air vents [benoit6] by autonomous
May 08, 2009 (2:09 pm)
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Replying to: benoit6 (May 08, 2009 3:14 am)

I'm experiencing idle surges on cold starts
I wonder if this may also be related to the car's emission control systems (e.g. EGR or PCV valves). Too bad the shop did not spot this while they had the car.
#3490 of 3600
Re: 2002 Mazda Protege ES: Gas smells coming from air vents [benoit6] by downtube
May 08, 2009 (7:33 pm)
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Replying to: benoit6 (May 08, 2009 3:14 am)

Look for a vacuum leak. Any leak downstream from the MAF sensor will screw up the air/fuel ratio. It will affect idle the most.
 
Look at the accordian pipe between the air cleaner and the intake manifold. Sometimes they develop cracks.
#3491 of 3600
engine vibration by sir_dude
May 12, 2009 (12:35 pm)
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I own a 2000 protege es 1.8L with under 45k miles. I bought brand new. It's developed an engine vibration after I start it. It happens when the engine is completely cold, I turn on the fan for defrost and when the defrost kicks on the vibration starts and when it kicks off the vibration stops. Also, the transmission has to be in gear, not in Park or Neutral. As the engine warms up to normal operating temp, the vibration almost completely disappears. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
 
This is my 2nd protege and has been a great car.
#3492 of 3600
Re: engine vibration [sir_dude] by autonomous
May 13, 2009 (2:07 pm)
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Replying to: sir_dude (May 12, 2009 12:35 pm)

I turn on the fan for defrost
What do you mean? What are you "defrost"ing?
#3493 of 3600
Re: engine vibration [autonomous] by sir_dude
May 15, 2009 (1:15 pm)
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Replying to: autonomous (May 13, 2009 2:07 pm)

The frost from off of the windows.
#3494 of 3600
Re: California Smog Test Failure [aj2000] by 302boss
Jun 02, 2009 (8:59 pm)
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Replying to: aj2000 (Jul 29, 2004 2:25 pm)

I own a 2000 Mazda Protege and it recently failed a CA smog test. The failure was a MIL OBD failure to communicate. In this case, there was nothing wrong with the car, computer or wiring. The battery had been replaced a couple of days before the smog test. The computers memory of recent driving conditions was erased when the battery was removed. The failure was because the computer was not ready to be tested. The car needs to be driven an unknown number of trips of various lengths, speeds and conditions and the computer will store this information. My mechanic said to drive it as much as I can and bring it back and he will check to see if it is ready to be tested. When it is ready, take it back to the smog test center for retest. This is one of the strangest things I have ever heard about a modern automobile.
#3495 of 3600
Re: California Smog Test Failure [302boss] by autonomous
Jun 03, 2009 (8:05 am)
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Replying to: 302boss (Jun 02, 2009 8:59 pm)

The car needs to be driven an unknown number of trips of various lengths, speeds and conditions and the computer will store this information.
 
Interesting. I did not realize that the test used the history from the car's computer.
 
In Ontario Canada we have a Drive Clean Emission program that measures the emission systems of the car every second year. The thirty minute test involves measuring the output at idle and 40 km/hr of hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and nitrous oxide (NO) from the tailpipe. Mechanics recommend that prior to testing the car be warmed up by driving it on the highway for a half hour or more. One way of ensuring positive results is to have a fuel system cleaning done before the test.
#3496 of 3600
Re: California Smog Test Failure [302boss] by downtube
Jun 03, 2009 (5:47 pm)
Reply

Replying to: 302boss (Jun 02, 2009 8:59 pm)

This is one of the strangest things I have ever heard about a modern automobile.
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of On Board Diagnostics. The complexity of the OBD software in your car's computer rivals that of the actual control system it's monitoring.
 
Some monitors only run on cold start. Some only run once a certain temperature is reached, and engine is operating at a certain speed and torque output. It may take several drive cycles over several days to get all monitors to run enough to satisfy the smog test.
#3497 of 3600
2000 Protege 1.6L DOHC won't idle, runs rough by primemover
Jun 17, 2009 (12:54 am)
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My Protege, w/ 94,000 miles on it had a radiator leak that caused an engine overheating. I replaced the radiator and while I was inspired, I replaced the timing belt and water pump. That is when my problems began. I was using the Haynes Repair Manual (#61015) and the timing marks illustration for the 1.6L is wrong. I finally got the right information and put things back together. It starts and does not display any check engine errors (no CEL and I do have a code reader, but no codes are stored.) If I start the car and do nothing else, the engine will die very quickly. If I play with the throttle, I can keep the car running but have to continually move the throttle or it will die. The engine runs rough and it is not burning the fuel completely. The plugs (new) are now coated with soot. I could not keep the car running long enough to get it fully warmed up (radiator cap was still cool) but I checked the wet/dry compression while the engine was still kinda warm.
 
Dry: #1 140 #2 140 #3 145 #4 150
Wet:#1 155 #2 145 #3 170 #4 160
 
I checked for vacuum leaks and found none. I cleaned the throttle body and the EGR valve, which had much carbon. This car does not have a distributor and I have ohm'ed out the crankshaft and the cam shaft sensor. They check fine.
 
I wonder: While I am confident that the (DOHC) timing marks are lined up properly (Intake "I" (left) at 12 O'clock and the line 3 O'clock, Exhaust "E" (right) at 12 O'clock and the line at 9 o'clock) - with the #1 piston top dead center, I wonder if my timing belt (new) has become stretched with all the putting on/taking off.
 
Please post suggestions / theories about what could be the cause of the no idle/rough running. I welcome _all_ ideas. Thanks in advance!

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