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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

3600 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: benoit6 (May 01, 2009 3:11 pm)
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Replying to: benoit6 (May 08, 2009 3:14 am) I wonder if this may also be related to the car's emission control systems (e.g. EGR or PCV valves). Too bad the shop did not spot this while they had the car. |
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Replying to: benoit6 (May 08, 2009 3:14 am) Look at the accordian pipe between the air cleaner and the intake manifold. Sometimes they develop cracks. |
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I own a 2000 protege es 1.8L with under 45k miles. I bought brand new. It's developed an engine vibration after I start it. It happens when the engine is completely cold, I turn on the fan for defrost and when the defrost kicks on the vibration starts and when it kicks off the vibration stops. Also, the transmission has to be in gear, not in Park or Neutral. As the engine warms up to normal operating temp, the vibration almost completely disappears. Has anyone else experienced this problem? This is my 2nd protege and has been a great car.
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Replying to: sir_dude (May 12, 2009 12:35 pm) What do you mean? What are you "defrost"ing?
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Replying to: autonomous (May 13, 2009 2:07 pm) |
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Replying to: aj2000 (Jul 29, 2004 2:25 pm)
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Replying to: 302boss (Jun 02, 2009 8:59 pm) Interesting. I did not realize that the test used the history from the car's computer. In Ontario Canada we have a Drive Clean Emission program that measures the emission systems of the car every second year. The thirty minute test involves measuring the output at idle and 40 km/hr of hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and nitrous oxide (NO) from the tailpipe. Mechanics recommend that prior to testing the car be warmed up by driving it on the highway for a half hour or more. One way of ensuring positive results is to have a fuel system cleaning done before the test. |
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Replying to: 302boss (Jun 02, 2009 8:59 pm) Welcome to the wonderful world of On Board Diagnostics. The complexity of the OBD software in your car's computer rivals that of the actual control system it's monitoring. Some monitors only run on cold start. Some only run once a certain temperature is reached, and engine is operating at a certain speed and torque output. It may take several drive cycles over several days to get all monitors to run enough to satisfy the smog test. |
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My Protege, w/ 94,000 miles on it had a radiator leak that caused an engine overheating. I replaced the radiator and while I was inspired, I replaced the timing belt and water pump. That is when my problems began. I was using the Haynes Repair Manual (#61015) and the timing marks illustration for the 1.6L is wrong. I finally got the right information and put things back together. It starts and does not display any check engine errors (no CEL and I do have a code reader, but no codes are stored.) If I start the car and do nothing else, the engine will die very quickly. If I play with the throttle, I can keep the car running but have to continually move the throttle or it will die. The engine runs rough and it is not burning the fuel completely. The plugs (new) are now coated with soot. I could not keep the car running long enough to get it fully warmed up (radiator cap was still cool) but I checked the wet/dry compression while the engine was still kinda warm. Dry: #1 140 #2 140 #3 145 #4 150 Wet:#1 155 #2 145 #3 170 #4 160 I checked for vacuum leaks and found none. I cleaned the throttle body and the EGR valve, which had much carbon. This car does not have a distributor and I have ohm'ed out the crankshaft and the cam shaft sensor. They check fine. I wonder: While I am confident that the (DOHC) timing marks are lined up properly (Intake "I" (left) at 12 O'clock and the line Please post suggestions / theories about what could be the cause of the no idle/rough running. I welcome _all_ ideas. Thanks in advance!
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