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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3584 messages, Last post on Nov 10, 2009 at 9:50 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: lhy (Feb 03, 2009 5:43 pm) EGR Valve clogs up, resulting in rough idle and poor economy. If you're handy you can clean it yourself, or replace it. Part is around $100. Air intake leaks, resulting in rough idle and poor economy. The accordian-like hose from the air cleaner to the intake manifold often cracks over time. Part is about $35, fairly easy repair. Clunk in rear suspension in cold weather. Anti-swaybar bushings and/or endlinks are the culprit. If you don't mind the sound it's generally not a problem. The internals on the Protege motors are bombproof. There's no reason maintenance would be higher than any other car. Most Mazda fanatics stay away from the dealers for maintenance. |
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Replying to: merf888 (Nov 18, 2008 2:34 am) I found the correct wiring in a 02 mazda miata book lol and mines a 00 protege lol I found and traced that wire in the diagram and also found it went to the computer. There is a problem I hate with the car tho is the fuse relay box under the hood is a matrix pattern of circuts u cant physically see/ take apart fully to check for dammage and where is there a diagram for that in the books lol stupid mazda! anyways.. I know my pump is bad cause I was getting no movement out of it with full voltage. I rebuilt it and ran it in my sink lol and it turns on now but I plan on getting a new one cause the flow is to weak only 20 psi on my gauge. but my prob is the book sais it should fire the relay to activate but it wont unless I ground it my self while in run position like you say cause I tried it before reading this. I knew I wasnt stupid! Does the computer make the ground complete? I have continuity from the relay plug (going to pcm) to ground but not enough to make the buzzer sound it just shows random numbers like barely any ground i guess. Its like the computer is holding ground open a bit untill it decides to provide full ground? Its funny tho when I turn the key from start to run after attempting start it will turn the fuel pump on for a few seconds then off lol. Again thanx for any help my gf is pissed and probably thinks im an idiot mainly cause I talk of opening a shop lol I just told her I dont have the books and mazda shops wont talk to me cause they want me to bring in the car! Thanx for you help!.... Robert
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Replying to: kjam143 (Jun 29, 2006 8:05 pm) 
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Replying to: omarr (Feb 16, 2009 11:59 am) |
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I own a 2001 Mazda Protege, 2.0 LX. 120K. Over the past year, my car has been intermittently sputtering on ignition and occasionally while driving. To fix it I would rev the engine a couple times or turn the car off than on again. The check engine light would come on, but would turn off after a couple days. The local garage couldn't find anything wrong. Fast forward to last week, and while driving my car on the highway it started to sputter, and I lost all acceleration. The engine sounded as if it was struggling to keep up ( Going 65-70 mph). I pulled over to the side of the road, turned the car off and on a couple times, and it started working again. This has happened 3 or four times in the past week. Today, I checked and replaced the air filter (Dirtier than it should have been) and checked the MAF sensor (clean). I tuned the ignition and it ran fine, then started to sputter again. I gunned the engine and it once again fixed the problem. I've noticed a drop in MPG as well since this has started happening. It's getting worse by the day. Would anyone know what is causing this? I been researching the problem, but it seems no one has a definitive answer as to if this is caused by the EGR valve, catalytic converter, etc. Thanks for the help, -A
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Replying to: magicmonkeymea (Feb 16, 2009 4:42 pm) |
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Replying to: magicmonkeymea (Feb 16, 2009 4:42 pm) |
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Replying to: 5speed1 (Jul 29, 2000 4:53 pm) I was recently in a fender bender. The day after the body work done, it died on me. Took it in for a servicing- had an oil change. It makes a loud knocking or pinging noise when accelerating or have foot on gas. The garage said they don't know what the actual problem is- tried a few things but Bottom line - need to replace the engine. New engine is $4000. Is this normal? Could the accident have cause this serious problem?
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Replying to: sickprotege1 (Feb 25, 2009 1:03 pm) Are there any other symptoms? For example, does it feel like the engine is going to stall? Does the tachometer dip or surge when the problem occurs? The garage said they don't know what the actual problem is- tried a few things but Bottom line - need to replace the engine. New engine is $4000. Before proceeding with such an expensive repair, I would go for a second opinion from another garage. Why not get a full diagnostic done to get an overall assessment of your car before investing any more money in the car? Make sure to provide as much information to enable the garage to diagnose the problem properly. I was recently in a fender bender. ... New engine is $4000. Is this normal? Could the accident have cause this serious problem? If it's a fender bender, then the accident does not sound serious enough to require a new engine. 165,000 km is an older engine but if it has been properly maintained it should not require replacement as part of normal wear and tear. |
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Replying to: hooker321 (Feb 08, 2009 2:25 pm) |
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