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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3584 messages, Last post on Nov 10, 2009 at 9:50 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: lhy (Feb 03, 2009 5:43 pm) |
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I had to repair my map light recently, the overhead one which is combined with moonroof controls. (2003 Protege ES sedan) Notes about the job: * The map light plastic assembly is held in place by 2 metal prongs on this model auto. These prongs are located at either end of the assembly, baton-wise. That is to say that if the assembly were a boat, the 2 shorter, pointier ends which would hold the boat's motor are the positions where the retaining force is. Waste less time knowing this; don't end up like me and puzzle over it for 9 months! * Once you have the assembly free, you probably want to unsecure the wiring. This can be done by hand by pushing *very hard* on the raised pressable portion of the wiring uniter clip, and simultaneously pulling the clip apart. (Twice for 2 clips) * If your "map light" switch has become inoperative, it might be due to an ejected tiny tiny screw near the switch itself. Try hard to recover the screw inside the assembly. If you can't find it, do what I did and take apart small electronics for a few years so that you can easily find a matching screw. Once you have located these screws, you only need to do the hard work of screwing the spring switch back into place; then your lamp should be switchable again! * Any problems with moonroof switches are unknown. That's up to you. |
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MODEL = 2003 Protege ES sedan Fog Light Lamp replace job: Wow, this took twice as long as expected, with the "assembly is reverse of disassembly" really biting into my day. To start with, go to Auto Parts and pick up one of the "H3" bulbs. Wal Mart had 'em in my area. On this model Protege, the fog light hard plastic assembly has a 10mm bolt holding it in place. The bolt is on the underside of the auto, directly under the fog light itself. Be careful *NOT* to reach for the recessed 10mm bolt in a similar location with plastic around it; this is for expert personnel who wish to tune the "aim" of the fog light. The one you want should come with a washer and be a bit coppery. Once you have the bolt removed and set aside, it's just a matter of pushiing and pulling and perhaps unwedging the assembly with flat screwdrivers, before you get the assembly pulled out about 2 or 4 inches where you can see the backside. (note that the right and left fog lights are set up with differing wiring, so one side's fog light might pull out 2 or 3 inches more than the other side) Once you can see the backside, there are 2 Phillips screws which need to come off. It's a really tight area, so you'll be helping yourself out a whole lot it you get a short ratchet drive Phillips head or a short short screwdriver. With those 2 screws gone and set aside, you can just about pull the bulb out. (At least you can see it now). First you need to unspring the retainer spring. Find the end which is hiding under some plastic which has an opening to the side. You will then move the spring through the open area and unspring it. Replacing the bulb is quite easy at this point. Remember: * Your replacement will also be a halogen bulb. Never handle the glass with your fingers. Wipe down the bulb with a clean cloth if you do. Grab the new bulb by the metal base only. * Your newer bulb has a wire and slotted thing coming from it. Remove the identical slotted thing associated with the old bulb by looking inside the half shrink-wrapped wire, and PULL the wire. Inserting the new bulb's wire lead works in reverse. Once you have the newer bulb in, you need to re-spring the stell clip. This is pretty difficult with bare hands; I recommend use of a short-head pliers to assist you in re-locking that dumb spring. With the newer bulb in and wires connected, you may test the lamp. Success? Yay! Now you will want to manually stuff the remaining wiring portion into the assembly and close it up. Reinsert the 2 Phillips screws and reattach the rear circular wall. You might be almost there now. The fog light assembly hopefully is hanging in front of the auto, dangling by a few inches of wire. Before you shove it back in, look hard at the assembly. Look again. You hopefully see 2 circular firm protrusions at the right and left side of the fog light. Look inside the bumper and you'll see where these knobs will have to end up for final positioning. Insert the fog light, trying from memory to line up those knobs on the right and left. It might take a few tries, and it takes some light pounding, but eventually you will see, at bottom, the hole for the 10mm coppery bolt and washer. Once you have the hole visible through the bumper plastic, you are there! Screw in the 10mm bolt and you are finished. Congratulations!  Now if somebody wants to write up practical ideas for the "aiming" of these things; that would be awesome. |
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Replying to: spetz (Jan 02, 2009 9:38 am) TSB: 07-001/01 1999-00 Protege - COLD AIR LEAKS AT BLOWER AND COOLING UNIT FOAM SEALS Info is available here: http://www.protegefaq.net/tsb/ |
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Replying to: lhy (Feb 03, 2009 5:43 pm) EGR Valve clogs up, resulting in rough idle and poor economy. If you're handy you can clean it yourself, or replace it. Part is around $100. Air intake leaks, resulting in rough idle and poor economy. The accordian-like hose from the air cleaner to the intake manifold often cracks over time. Part is about $35, fairly easy repair. Clunk in rear suspension in cold weather. Anti-swaybar bushings and/or endlinks are the culprit. If you don't mind the sound it's generally not a problem. The internals on the Protege motors are bombproof. There's no reason maintenance would be higher than any other car. Most Mazda fanatics stay away from the dealers for maintenance. |
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Replying to: merf888 (Nov 18, 2008 2:34 am) I found the correct wiring in a 02 mazda miata book lol and mines a 00 protege lol I found and traced that wire in the diagram and also found it went to the computer. There is a problem I hate with the car tho is the fuse relay box under the hood is a matrix pattern of circuts u cant physically see/ take apart fully to check for dammage and where is there a diagram for that in the books lol stupid mazda! anyways.. I know my pump is bad cause I was getting no movement out of it with full voltage. I rebuilt it and ran it in my sink lol and it turns on now but I plan on getting a new one cause the flow is to weak only 20 psi on my gauge. but my prob is the book sais it should fire the relay to activate but it wont unless I ground it my self while in run position like you say cause I tried it before reading this. I knew I wasnt stupid! Does the computer make the ground complete? I have continuity from the relay plug (going to pcm) to ground but not enough to make the buzzer sound it just shows random numbers like barely any ground i guess. Its like the computer is holding ground open a bit untill it decides to provide full ground? Its funny tho when I turn the key from start to run after attempting start it will turn the fuel pump on for a few seconds then off lol. Again thanx for any help my gf is pissed and probably thinks im an idiot mainly cause I talk of opening a shop lol I just told her I dont have the books and mazda shops wont talk to me cause they want me to bring in the car! Thanx for you help!.... Robert
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Replying to: kjam143 (Jun 29, 2006 8:05 pm) 
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Replying to: omarr (Feb 16, 2009 11:59 am) |
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I own a 2001 Mazda Protege, 2.0 LX. 120K. Over the past year, my car has been intermittently sputtering on ignition and occasionally while driving. To fix it I would rev the engine a couple times or turn the car off than on again. The check engine light would come on, but would turn off after a couple days. The local garage couldn't find anything wrong. Fast forward to last week, and while driving my car on the highway it started to sputter, and I lost all acceleration. The engine sounded as if it was struggling to keep up ( Going 65-70 mph). I pulled over to the side of the road, turned the car off and on a couple times, and it started working again. This has happened 3 or four times in the past week. Today, I checked and replaced the air filter (Dirtier than it should have been) and checked the MAF sensor (clean). I tuned the ignition and it ran fine, then started to sputter again. I gunned the engine and it once again fixed the problem. I've noticed a drop in MPG as well since this has started happening. It's getting worse by the day. Would anyone know what is causing this? I been researching the problem, but it seems no one has a definitive answer as to if this is caused by the EGR valve, catalytic converter, etc. Thanks for the help, -A
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Replying to: magicmonkeymea (Feb 16, 2009 4:42 pm) |
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