Last post on Apr 23, 2013 at 10:59 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege
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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#3431 of 3738 Low Oil Pressure
Jan 16, 2009 (1:33 am)
I baught a 2001 Mazda Protege last april. I love this car. It's great. I have run into some problems with it tho. My oil pressure continously blinks and I've recently had to stop driving it. My car idles fine. But if i try to drive it anytime i get over 2500 Rpm it's starting knocking and clanging. I don't know much about this car it's the frist mazda i've owned. My grandfather is an old fashion mechanic. He can work on any chevy or ford you throw at him. But when it comes to my car he is clueless. I told him about my low oil pressure and he said that it sounded like my oil pump was weak. I've looked everywhere for and oil pump for my car. Nobody has one. Most people say they've never heard of it and then others say they have. I'm very confused. Does my car have an oil pump? If not how do i fix it? The nearest mazda dealership is in missouri. I can't afford to have it towed. What could cause this problem? Where can i find the parts to get it fixed?
#3432 of 3738 Re: Low Oil Pressure [mgmazda]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jan 16, 2009 (4:32 pm)
You don't have to go to Missouri but you do have to go to a shop that can fix Japanese cars. What needs to happen first is that someone has to use either a computer or an oil pressure gauge to find out the REAL oil pressure reading.
Once that is known, then one can work on possible solutions. You're just guessing here. You may end up doing lots of work for nothing.
Here, read up on this, I think you'll find it helpful!
Diagnosing Low Oil Pressure--Symptoms and Causes
#3434 of 3738 Re: Great site! [autonomous]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jan 20, 2009 (4:51 pm)
It's a good site for educational info, but you can often find more nitty gritty details from owners here at Edmunds, and sometimes step by step repair info as well.
#3435 of 3738 Re: Protoge horn goes off by itself [tdc1]
Jan 28, 2009 (12:37 pm)
Your instructions (2765)on horn repair for a 92 Mazda were right on. Tried it today and used styrafoam instead of regular foam and it seems to work fine now. Problem was at low temps the horn blew continuously. We will see how the styrafoam works out over time.
#3436 of 3738 Re: Protoge horn goes off by itself [dfang]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jan 28, 2009 (1:51 pm)
That was TDC1 who helped you there, not me!
#3437 of 3738 2000 Mazda Protege LX repair costs
Feb 03, 2009 (6:43 pm)
I am thinking about buying a used 2000 Mazda Protege LX with 112K miles on it. How much do repair costs on this model run in general?
I have heard that Mazdas are expensive to fix compared to other cars. Is this true for the Protege?
#3438 of 3738 Re: 2000 Mazda Protege LX repair costs [lhy]
Feb 04, 2009 (10:45 am)
I have not found the repair costs expensive for my 2002 Protege5 and parts are generally available. The other good news is that car has been reliable.
#3439 of 3738 map light (dome light forward)
Feb 07, 2009 (5:12 pm)
I had to repair my map light recently, the overhead one which is combined with moonroof controls. (2003 Protege ES sedan)
Notes about the job:
* The map light plastic assembly is held in place by 2 metal prongs on this model auto. These prongs are located at either end of the assembly, baton-wise. That is to say that if the assembly were a boat, the 2 shorter, pointier ends which would hold the boat's motor are the positions where the retaining force is. Waste less time knowing this; don't end up like me and puzzle over it for 9 months!
* Once you have the assembly free, you probably want to unsecure the wiring. This can be done by hand by pushing *very hard* on the raised pressable portion of the wiring uniter clip, and simultaneously pulling the clip apart. (Twice for 2 clips)
* If your "map light" switch has become inoperative, it might be due to an ejected tiny tiny screw near the switch itself. Try hard to recover the screw inside the assembly. If you can't find it, do what I did and take apart small electronics for a few years so that you can easily find a matching screw. Once you have located these screws, you only need to do the hard work of screwing the spring switch back into place; then your lamp should be switchable again!
* Any problems with moonroof switches are unknown. That's up to you.
#3440 of 3738 Fog light lamp 2003 ES
Feb 07, 2009 (5:46 pm)
MODEL = 2003 Protege ES sedan
Fog Light Lamp replace job:
Wow, this took twice as long as expected, with the "assembly is reverse of disassembly" really biting into my day.
To start with, go to Auto Parts and pick up one of the "H3" bulbs. Wal Mart had 'em in my area.
On this model Protege, the fog light hard plastic assembly has a 10mm bolt holding it in place. The bolt is on the underside of the auto, directly under the fog light itself. Be careful *NOT* to reach for the recessed 10mm bolt in a similar location with plastic around it; this is for expert personnel who wish to tune the "aim" of the fog light. The one you want should come with a washer and be a bit coppery.
Once you have the bolt removed and set aside, it's just a matter of pushiing and pulling and perhaps unwedging the assembly with flat screwdrivers, before you get the assembly pulled out about 2 or 4 inches where you can see the backside. (note that the right and left fog lights are set up with differing wiring, so one side's fog light might pull out 2 or 3 inches more than the other side)
Once you can see the backside, there are 2 Phillips screws which need to come off. It's a really tight area, so you'll be helping yourself out a whole lot it you get a short ratchet drive Phillips head or a short short screwdriver.
With those 2 screws gone and set aside, you can just about pull the bulb out. (At least you can see it now). First you need to unspring the retainer spring. Find the end which is hiding under some plastic which has an opening to the side. You will then move the spring through the open area and unspring it.
Replacing the bulb is quite easy at this point. Remember:
* Your replacement will also be a halogen bulb. Never handle the glass with your fingers. Wipe down the bulb with a clean cloth if you do. Grab the new bulb by the metal base only.
* Your newer bulb has a wire and slotted thing coming from it. Remove the identical slotted thing associated with the old bulb by looking inside the half shrink-wrapped wire, and PULL the wire. Inserting the new bulb's wire lead works in reverse.
Once you have the newer bulb in, you need to re-spring the stell clip. This is pretty difficult with bare hands; I recommend use of a short-head pliers to assist you in re-locking that dumb spring.
With the newer bulb in and wires connected, you may test the lamp. Success? Yay!
Now you will want to manually stuff the remaining wiring portion into the assembly and close it up. Reinsert the 2 Phillips screws and reattach the rear circular wall.
You might be almost there now. The fog light assembly hopefully is hanging in front of the auto, dangling by a few inches of wire. Before you shove it back in, look hard at the assembly. Look again. You hopefully see 2 circular firm protrusions at the right and left side of the fog light. Look inside the bumper and you'll see where these knobs will have to end up for final positioning.
Insert the fog light, trying from memory to line up those knobs on the right and left. It might take a few tries, and it takes some light pounding, but eventually you will see, at bottom, the hole for the 10mm coppery bolt and washer. Once you have the hole visible through the bumper plastic, you are there! Screw in the 10mm bolt and you are finished. Congratulations!
Now if somebody wants to write up practical ideas for the "aiming" of these things; that would be awesome.