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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3584 messages, Last post on Nov 10, 2009 at 9:50 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
| I just joined up, and am very interested in all the interesting posts. Just got my second Protege, a 2000 auto with 68k on it. Seems to run well, but on a trip over the weekend, my passengers feet began to freeze. When we traded places, I found that there was a lot of cold air coming into the passengers side from under the dash, and very little warm air. This is not good in a Wisconsin winter. Does anyone know what might be going on? Didi gremlins remove a piece of my dash? I also noticed the glove box is equally cold, Any ideas would be much appreciated. | |
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Replying to: spetz (Jan 02, 2009 9:38 am) Have you tried setting the controls to "feet only" and maximum heat? If no or low heat is coming through on the passenger side and the driver's side is fine there could be some blockage or a closed flap on the passenger side.
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Replying to: autonomous (Jan 02, 2009 12:46 pm) |
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I need some advice in regards to an issue I'm having with my 2003 Protege 5. It started a month ago when my car started having problems accelerating. I would hit the gas but the car would just crawl. If I pumped the pedal, it would eventually accelerate. Once the car was moving, I had no more problems. The check engine light came on and I took it to a mechanic. The reading from the computer was a random misfire, and further inspection of the vehicle revealed that my coil pack boots deteriorated and allowed excessive moisture in which shorted the spark plug wires. My engine would not accelerate because the plugs were misfiring. They put new plugs, plug wires, and boots in. Engine light off, car ran fine This past week I started having this problem again. And today it got much worse. The car hangs on accelerating...in both forward and reverse. The engine, in both drive, idle and even more so when breaking, starts rumbling and I hear the sound of something slipping very faintly. The transmission (which was what I thought it originally was) shifts gears just fine. Again, once the car is moving it stays in motion. No stalling, no rumbling. But it is getting harder and harder to accelerate. And when I try my engine sputters and sounds like its going to stall. The engine light came on and when I pressed the gas to try and get it moving, the engine light flashed about 5 times and went solid again. I popped the hood once I made it home to see if I could find anything making a weird noise and found nothing (I have had this car for over 5 years and know what it sounds and feels like). When I killed the engine I heard a whooshing sound (similar to wind through a cracked window) coming from the air filter and vaccum hoses. I restarted the car, and killed it several more times and heard this noise every time. Now, I have never noticed this noise before so I don't know if this is normal or not, but I know it can be the sign of a cracked hose or something with the air in take. But I'm no mechanic. The car starts just fine and seems to run in idle ok, but once I try to drive it the problems start. Sorry this is so long but just to summarize: little to no acceleration unless I really work the pedal Car runs perfectly fine once it gets going rumbling in the engine ad very rough vibrations once I slow down and go back to idle or just have my foot on the brake while in any gear whooshing sound when I kill the engine for several seconds transmission shifts just fine. No grinding or clanking noises when shifting. new spark plugs, wires, and coil pack booots installed a month ago car has 97,500 miles (approx) If anyone could give me some ideas of what might be wrong it would be appreciated. Im "cartarded" and am really trying to learn more about cars, maintenance, and how to diagnose problems. Thanks!
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Replying to: NJStylee (Jan 04, 2009 4:16 pm) All the stuff you are talking about is good stuff to do. We had all that and more done. At the end the car was really sucking gas - do you have the problem - and running rough. If yours is doing the same have the fuel injectors checked as this was the final solution to our problem. One bum injector and possibley three more. Mechanics also asked if we had been using cheap gas as that will gum up an injector. Have you been using cheap gas? Five months later and the car is running like a young hot rod after the repair. Good luck and let me know.
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I read in this forum about another situation where a Mazda was running hot but there wasn't a post where it was mentioned exactly what had caused the problem or how to fully resolve it, so I am asking for help in that regard. PROBLEM: The guage on my car will go to H (all the way up) UNLESS I am running my heater all the way on 4. The mechanic says I have no radiator issues, fan issues, or gasket issues. He says "the thermometer might be sticking". Does that sound right? If it was "sticking", wouldn't it stay "stuck" instead of moving up only when the car is moving? I am worried that I am somehow damaging my car by continuing to drive it while that needle is on H. QUESTIONS: If anyone else has this problem and have continued to drive on H, has it damaged your car? If it actually "stuck" how can I get it fixed so it works properly? The mechanic didn't offer any options there. Thank you, CH
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Replying to: cindyhale (Jan 09, 2009 6:31 am) Curious. Didn't the mechanic suggest a new thermostat? You may want to take it to another garage for a second opinion. |
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Replying to: spetz (Jan 02, 2009 9:38 am)
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Replying to: cindyhale (Jan 09, 2009 6:31 am) You're right to be concerned about driving when the temperature is H. Don't do it! Have the thermostat replaced, it should not be expensive. A new thermostat is <$20, some coolant will need to be replaced, and <1 hour labor. |
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Replying to: downtube (Jan 11, 2009 1:37 am)
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