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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3598 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 1:11 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: carson13 (Nov 29, 2008 2:06 am) |
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I put a new batterry in it a few months ago. Starter is new and charging system is fine. As the oudoor temp drops the engine noticealby cranks slower. At about 0 deg F or colder I have to use a booster pack to start it. Even then sometimes it floods because it cranks so slow. This morning I did the booster pack thing and got the car started. When I walked to the front of the car one of the belts was squeeling. This is when I noticed my power steering pulley barely turning. It was like the ps pump was frozen. My question is how can a ps pump freeze??? Ps fluid does not freeze!! I don't care how cold it is. I can see how the pulley not turning would cause my hard starting especially in the cold but what would cause it to do that. I had this problem last winter too but didn't realize it was the ps pump slowing everything down. I have never had any problems with my power steering whatsoever. It doesn't leak, there's no water in the resevoir, and it steers fine. Has anyone else heard of this kind of problem and what the solution might be? |
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| Slavuta I have something similar to what you're desribing but I have a Auto Trans with 100k. My check engine light has been on for a few months and the computer says it's the timing censor. Just a few days ago my car has began having a weird idle where it drops below normal and sometimes jumps and eventually turns off if the car isn't put into drive. If I stop at a traffic light it cuts off but cranks back. Is this the timing censor ? | |
My temperature gauge moves up to slowly when i start driving. It will only go up quarter of the way, where as normally it stays between the cold and hot. I am guessing it is my thermostat. If it is could i replace it myself. I have a 2001 mazda protege 1.6 litre manual transmission. Also before replacing it where can i find it?
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Replying to: wearbear (Dec 14, 2008 8:27 am) If your engine temperature drops too low, the thermostat should close again to raise the temperature to operating level. Here's a description of how it works; Thermostat Function Your thermostat is in a housing at the end of the LOWER radiator hose, where it enters the cylinder head. When installing, the "jiggle pin" on the thermostat points toward the top, and the sealing ring on the gasket faces the cylinder head. The part is about $18 and the book says it takes a mechanic about 1 hour. You'll have to drain your coolant beforehand and probably take off some parts of the air cleaner for access. Good luck! |
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| I just joined up, and am very interested in all the interesting posts. Just got my second Protege, a 2000 auto with 68k on it. Seems to run well, but on a trip over the weekend, my passengers feet began to freeze. When we traded places, I found that there was a lot of cold air coming into the passengers side from under the dash, and very little warm air. This is not good in a Wisconsin winter. Does anyone know what might be going on? Didi gremlins remove a piece of my dash? I also noticed the glove box is equally cold, Any ideas would be much appreciated. | |
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Replying to: spetz (Jan 02, 2009 9:38 am) Have you tried setting the controls to "feet only" and maximum heat? If no or low heat is coming through on the passenger side and the driver's side is fine there could be some blockage or a closed flap on the passenger side.
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Replying to: autonomous (Jan 02, 2009 12:46 pm) |
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I need some advice in regards to an issue I'm having with my 2003 Protege 5. It started a month ago when my car started having problems accelerating. I would hit the gas but the car would just crawl. If I pumped the pedal, it would eventually accelerate. Once the car was moving, I had no more problems. The check engine light came on and I took it to a mechanic. The reading from the computer was a random misfire, and further inspection of the vehicle revealed that my coil pack boots deteriorated and allowed excessive moisture in which shorted the spark plug wires. My engine would not accelerate because the plugs were misfiring. They put new plugs, plug wires, and boots in. Engine light off, car ran fine This past week I started having this problem again. And today it got much worse. The car hangs on accelerating...in both forward and reverse. The engine, in both drive, idle and even more so when breaking, starts rumbling and I hear the sound of something slipping very faintly. The transmission (which was what I thought it originally was) shifts gears just fine. Again, once the car is moving it stays in motion. No stalling, no rumbling. But it is getting harder and harder to accelerate. And when I try my engine sputters and sounds like its going to stall. The engine light came on and when I pressed the gas to try and get it moving, the engine light flashed about 5 times and went solid again. I popped the hood once I made it home to see if I could find anything making a weird noise and found nothing (I have had this car for over 5 years and know what it sounds and feels like). When I killed the engine I heard a whooshing sound (similar to wind through a cracked window) coming from the air filter and vaccum hoses. I restarted the car, and killed it several more times and heard this noise every time. Now, I have never noticed this noise before so I don't know if this is normal or not, but I know it can be the sign of a cracked hose or something with the air in take. But I'm no mechanic. The car starts just fine and seems to run in idle ok, but once I try to drive it the problems start. Sorry this is so long but just to summarize: little to no acceleration unless I really work the pedal Car runs perfectly fine once it gets going rumbling in the engine ad very rough vibrations once I slow down and go back to idle or just have my foot on the brake while in any gear whooshing sound when I kill the engine for several seconds transmission shifts just fine. No grinding or clanking noises when shifting. new spark plugs, wires, and coil pack booots installed a month ago car has 97,500 miles (approx) If anyone could give me some ideas of what might be wrong it would be appreciated. Im "cartarded" and am really trying to learn more about cars, maintenance, and how to diagnose problems. Thanks!
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