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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3582 messages, Last post on Nov 08, 2009 at 4:11 PM
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| I have a 2000 protege and is i was driving the car started overheating. now i stopped and waited for the engine to cool down the i added some water to the small tank because it was empty. i started driving and the car eventually cooled down to normal. the next morning i added some more water but i found what appears to be oil in the tank. can anyone tell me what this means? will i still be able to drive my car? what do i have to do to fix the car and is it costly? | |
I copied this from another post. I have the exact same symptoms. I would greatly appreciate any help. Have a '95 Protege ... just wouldn't start one day. Fuel pump runs when you jump the diagnostic port, EFI and circuit opening/fuel pump relays work and Ohm out correctly. Started hoping it was the timing belt but looks good and turns the camshaft fine. Have compression and spark (although suspiciously weak looking spark ... have new wires, coil, cap and rotor and plugs). Only thing I found which puzzles me is that at the connector port under the seat to the pump, I only get about 6.5 volts with the key on. It should be full battery voltage. I'm not getting any initial prime pulse or fuel pump noise while cranking .. only during the diagnostic jump. I'm about ready to try to start it while jumped just to see if it will start at all. Could this be the PCM module? I'm about to do a fuel pressure test but this has me questioning the fuel pump operation.
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Just want to post a solution to a common Protege Problem. Car: 98 Protege ES, 1.8L, Manual Trans Symptoms: Rough idle - when disconnect clutch, the engine goes below normal idle. Check Engine light is on. OBD-II code P0240. Light may turn off for some time. Problem: Main air intake is leaking between air filter and intake manifold. Solution: Replace the plastic pipe OR Use medical gauze to wrap the pipe in between ribs to close air leaks. And on top of that wrap tightly with flexible duct tape. The light should go off after 3 full cycles (car fully cools off - warms up) How it works: The code P0240 Suggests that it is one of these: 1. your catalyst is not working (O2 sensors before and after the cat read the same). 2. Main vacuum leak 3. Something terrible in the engine with the valves. I had new OEM O2 sensor up front installed earlies same year for fuel economy issue (BTW-it worked!) so I didn't think that was an issue. I drove alot and didn't see catalyst overheat. I checked all vacuum hoses for leaks and found cracks in the intake. I decided to fix that and magically it fixed rough idling and check engine. Enjoy! |
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i am replacing my muffler everything up to my catalylic converter has been removed i have done minor repairs on my car but i am hard up for money so i am going to be doing this myself i have the new muffler and i am going to get the piping for it what i am looking for is information on how to put it all together it is a sohc and it is split piping sorry if i am not using the correct mechanics language i am new to this i just dont want to do it myself without any advice and have it fall off or not work correctly but i am open to any suggestions im trying to get this done as soon as possible because i am moving to california and i have to have it in tip top shape to not only pass emissions but to also be able to hold my own against the never ending traffic in la
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Replying to: carson13 (Nov 29, 2008 2:06 am) |
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I put a new batterry in it a few months ago. Starter is new and charging system is fine. As the oudoor temp drops the engine noticealby cranks slower. At about 0 deg F or colder I have to use a booster pack to start it. Even then sometimes it floods because it cranks so slow. This morning I did the booster pack thing and got the car started. When I walked to the front of the car one of the belts was squeeling. This is when I noticed my power steering pulley barely turning. It was like the ps pump was frozen. My question is how can a ps pump freeze??? Ps fluid does not freeze!! I don't care how cold it is. I can see how the pulley not turning would cause my hard starting especially in the cold but what would cause it to do that. I had this problem last winter too but didn't realize it was the ps pump slowing everything down. I have never had any problems with my power steering whatsoever. It doesn't leak, there's no water in the resevoir, and it steers fine. Has anyone else heard of this kind of problem and what the solution might be? |
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| Slavuta I have something similar to what you're desribing but I have a Auto Trans with 100k. My check engine light has been on for a few months and the computer says it's the timing censor. Just a few days ago my car has began having a weird idle where it drops below normal and sometimes jumps and eventually turns off if the car isn't put into drive. If I stop at a traffic light it cuts off but cranks back. Is this the timing censor ? | |
My temperature gauge moves up to slowly when i start driving. It will only go up quarter of the way, where as normally it stays between the cold and hot. I am guessing it is my thermostat. If it is could i replace it myself. I have a 2001 mazda protege 1.6 litre manual transmission. Also before replacing it where can i find it?
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Replying to: wearbear (Dec 14, 2008 8:27 am) If your engine temperature drops too low, the thermostat should close again to raise the temperature to operating level. Here's a description of how it works; Thermostat Function Your thermostat is in a housing at the end of the LOWER radiator hose, where it enters the cylinder head. When installing, the "jiggle pin" on the thermostat points toward the top, and the sealing ring on the gasket faces the cylinder head. The part is about $18 and the book says it takes a mechanic about 1 hour. You'll have to drain your coolant beforehand and probably take off some parts of the air cleaner for access. Good luck! |
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