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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3597 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 11:58 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: brian374 (Oct 21, 2008 3:49 am) But hopefully you had good luck and no engine damage and so you need to look for the source of your overheating problem. Overheating is caused by a complex range of possible issues and has to be approached methodically, going from the simple to the complicated, and from the most likely to the least likely. The reason you have no heat is that you have low or no coolant in the system. But to the diagnosis: 1. A leak somewhere -- this can be tested doing a 'pressure test' on the cooling system with a pump 2. Stuck thermostat -- remove, test and inspect 3. inoperative electric cooling fans -- test and observe 4. clogged radiator -- this can be "flow-tested" by a radiator shop 5. air in cooling system -- when new coolant was added, system was not properly purged of air with bleed screws or using approved filling methods 6. bad head gasket or cracked cylinder head -- tested with pressure testing pump, and look for coolant on spark plugs or air bubbles in radiator. good luck with it! Hope it's one of the simple ones. Visiting Host
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Oct 21, 2008 8:06 am)
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Replying to: brian374 (Oct 21, 2008 10:10 am)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Oct 21, 2008 10:22 am)
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Replying to: brian374 (Oct 21, 2008 10:29 am) From what you say I'm thinking the cooling fans cut out perhaps. If you had a chronic overheat you'd never have made it home. When at freeway speed, you don't need the fans as much, if at all, to cool the car down. So the general rule (with exceptions) is: low speed overheat/traffic---cooling fans or other air circulation issue high speed overheat-- coolant circulation issue very fast overheat within 5-10 minutes of driving --- head gasket/blocked or stuck thermostat
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Oct 21, 2008 11:27 am) |
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I have a 2000 Mazda Protege. When I tried to start it yesterday morning, the engine was turning over, but it just wouldn't start. Any ideas? Thanks |
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| I have a 2000 protege and is i was driving the car started overheating. now i stopped and waited for the engine to cool down the i added some water to the small tank because it was empty. i started driving and the car eventually cooled down to normal. the next morning i added some more water but i found what appears to be oil in the tank. can anyone tell me what this means? will i still be able to drive my car? what do i have to do to fix the car and is it costly? | |
I copied this from another post. I have the exact same symptoms. I would greatly appreciate any help. Have a '95 Protege ... just wouldn't start one day. Fuel pump runs when you jump the diagnostic port, EFI and circuit opening/fuel pump relays work and Ohm out correctly. Started hoping it was the timing belt but looks good and turns the camshaft fine. Have compression and spark (although suspiciously weak looking spark ... have new wires, coil, cap and rotor and plugs). Only thing I found which puzzles me is that at the connector port under the seat to the pump, I only get about 6.5 volts with the key on. It should be full battery voltage. I'm not getting any initial prime pulse or fuel pump noise while cranking .. only during the diagnostic jump. I'm about ready to try to start it while jumped just to see if it will start at all. Could this be the PCM module? I'm about to do a fuel pressure test but this has me questioning the fuel pump operation.
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Just want to post a solution to a common Protege Problem. Car: 98 Protege ES, 1.8L, Manual Trans Symptoms: Rough idle - when disconnect clutch, the engine goes below normal idle. Check Engine light is on. OBD-II code P0240. Light may turn off for some time. Problem: Main air intake is leaking between air filter and intake manifold. Solution: Replace the plastic pipe OR Use medical gauze to wrap the pipe in between ribs to close air leaks. And on top of that wrap tightly with flexible duct tape. The light should go off after 3 full cycles (car fully cools off - warms up) How it works: The code P0240 Suggests that it is one of these: 1. your catalyst is not working (O2 sensors before and after the cat read the same). 2. Main vacuum leak 3. Something terrible in the engine with the valves. I had new OEM O2 sensor up front installed earlies same year for fuel economy issue (BTW-it worked!) so I didn't think that was an issue. I drove alot and didn't see catalyst overheat. I checked all vacuum hoses for leaks and found cracks in the intake. I decided to fix that and magically it fixed rough idling and check engine. Enjoy! |
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