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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3600 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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I've got one shop telling me that I need this, quote from the estimate : "Replace clutch disk: Includes R&I Transaxle To R&R Flywheel, Add Clutch disk To R&R Pilot Bearing, Add Clutch Disk Clutch Disk Clutch Slave Cylinder" this total is $783... I'm in Northern VA.. pretty high labor costs Another place's estimate adds up to $700 but they say I need a master cylinder not a slave, they also say I need a front seal. A third shop says I need a new clutch assembly, drive train (includes replacing pressure plate, Di Pilot and Throw Out Bearing). Also a new flywheel. And they say I don't necessarily need a new slave or master cylinder, but have given me estimates on those as well, for a grand total of a whopping $1330. I can't tell from this what I really need, and I can't tell which shop I shold work with, all I know is that there's no way I can afford the third if I do all the work. Any advice or suggestions about what I should do????
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Replying to: lakeannedave (Jul 18, 2008 9:20 am) clutch disk pressure plate throw out bearing pilot bearing clutch slave (depending on mileage, or signs of leaking, filthy fluid, etc) clutch master (as above) And yes, the transmission/transaxle has to come out. HOWEVER, replacing the flylwheel is rather dubious because they haven't inspected it yet. Unless it is badly, and I mean BADLY cracked from heat, it can be resurfaced (a good idea) if ...IF....there is any roughness to it. If you don't resurface a flywheel that is scored or rough, the clutch will chatter, which is most annoying. $700 sounds fair enough to me if they do everything I mentioned. A clutch job is not something you want to do again in 20,000 miles. So replace EVERYTHING that requires the transmission to be removed. A clutch slave or clutch master is no biggie, that can be done when it is needed. And again, I think replacing the flywheel as a preventative measure is extreme and should not be done unless it is really messed up. Visiting Host |
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i cant figure out how to get my speedometer and odometer to work. how do i get them working again?
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Replying to: aboyer82 (Jul 19, 2008 8:38 am) |
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Hey All, Just bought my first Mazda -- '02 Protege LX (2.0), AT and such. However, I noticed as I was driving it back down to Los Angeles today that once I get to about 55-60 mph, I start to hear a very noticeable rattling sound from what sounds like the bottom right of the front passenger area, almost behind and a little below the glove compartment. I'm assuming it's probably the strut mounts or the stabilizer links, but is there anything obvious a new zoom-zoomer like me might be missing? Thanks, Rob |
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| Just bought a 2000 Protege ES 1.8L with 5 speed manual, 84K miles. The car runs well but the idle speed seems low (maybe 500 rpm), and the car idles roughly and seems to want to cut out, but never has so far. Previous owner said his mechanic told him it needs idle adjustment. The car was had been in a minor front end accident about a year prior and has a new radiator. There is an intake assembly running from the air filter housing out to the actual air intake on top of the radiator. This was apparently never put back right after the accident, and the tubing doesn't connect well to the filter housing, so that the actual air intake is probably taking place at the base of the housing. I could fix this easily enough, but there also seems to be an opening on the bottom of the tubing, so that either way I'm not really going to be taking in air from the assembly over the radiator. My questions: 1) Should I adjust the idle, or should I try to fix the intake first? 2) What should the intake setup look like? Is there really supposed to be a hole at the bottom of the tubing right as it connects to the air filter housing, or is there supposed to be another hose or something there? If anyone has a car like this and can take a photo of what the intake is supposed to look like, I'd appreciate it. Thanks. | |
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Replying to: paramount13 (Jul 21, 2008 9:22 pm) I highly recommend not messing with the throttle body adjustments. If it is dirty or clogged, clean it. If all the hoses and tubes are in good shape, check the IAC valve under the throttle body.
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Replying to: maltb (Jul 22, 2008 9:39 am) Thanks
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Replying to: paramount13 (Jul 23, 2008 7:45 pm) |
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96 Mazda Protege LX 1.5L with 104,000 miles, (past) due for timing belt replacement.  Initially told parts needed were: timing belt tensioner cam seals crank seal valve cover gasket timing idlers water pump Estimate totaled $370 for parts (from Advance, not Mazda parts), $200 labor - this all by a friend, independent unemployed mechanic working on his own. I was then advised that if anything "went wrong", etc., this could create a bad situation (for me) as there would be no liability/responsibility for anything that might happen.  After contemplation, I decided best way to go would be where I could get a warranty on work (parts and labor), so got a shop estimate of $630 with same parts. Mazda dealer quoted $900, but after hearing previous estimates, convinced me to bring car in for them to check and they would work with me, convincing me they could get cost down to at least mid-$700s or probably even lower. Another shop quoted $260 labor plus cost of genuine Mazda parts which should make total around $700 +/-.  Took car into dealer, they tell me I don't need tensioner (would save about $65 for Mazda part per online research), added additional belts bringing total for parts/labor to $770 and intake "boot" (can't find this online - is it same as valve?) for 85.78/no additional labor, now back up to original $900 quote (actually $932.78 with taxes).  I do feel warranty is important as I cannot afford to put out more money for re-repair and have no other means of transportation. Do you know if Mazda parts carry their same warranty if service not done by a Mazda dealer/mechanic? I have owned Mazdas for several years now, but this is highest mileage and most major work at one time that I have ever had done on one, so I guess that is what is causing me the most stress, but would really appreciate your opinion.  I can't get a definitive answer on what they are charging for labor (as they tell me it varies from $95/hour, but less than that for this type work), but it seems that is the major cost difference, appearing to be (from quote of $260 of other shop) to what appears to be closer to $500 with Mazda, and they tell me they have worked to get the price down and are basically "cutting me a deal"?? Am I getting a good or reasonable deal for the work listed?  Two more things they found that will need replacing soon are a thermostat gasket (quoted $225) and distributor cap which is leaking minimal oil now (quoted $150). I was also told by them that my car is in extremely good condition for age/miles.  Do these prices sound reasonable too? Thank you so very much for your opinion/advice!!! 
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