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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#3348 of 3738 2001 Progete LX surging...
Jul 14, 2008 (6:27 am)
It's a 2001 Mazda Protege LX 2.0
OK! I've had the car almost 3 years now... My engine crapped out 3 or so months ago. The car sat for a month until I purchased a used engine from a reputable local company. One weekend a friend and I made time to swap the engines. Taking our time we used one day to remove the broken down original engine and the next putting in the purchased used one. All went fine, no problems to mention... I turned the key and it started up and ran like nothing had ever happened... At that point I was very pleased and took her out of his garage for a test spin around the block...
The very 1st thing I noticed was a noise like iron wire dragging under the car on the ground. It had at that point sat outside on the street for a good month so surface rust building up on the inside of the rear drums or front rotors is very likely. It was that kind of noise... In addition to that the brakes where nonexistent. I had to bury my foot into to the pedal to stop. I've inspected most if not all brake hardware, changed all pads/shoes and bleed the brake system. The pedal seems very stiff, not spongy & definitely off the floor. It still doesn't stop well at all... I'm down to replacing the master brake cylinder. Does anyone think different?? What about the booster? Could the booster be the route of my brake problem??
OK now on to my next issue two weeks into running the car with the new used engine... I would describe it as a smooth bucking or surging when accelerating from a dead stop. Its worse when the car/engine is cold. It will do it 3-4 up to 7-8 times before smoothing out. Sometimes when warm it won't do it at all, but most the time it will. Other than that it behaves the way it should to me even giving better gas mileage over the old engine before it died. There are no warning lights of any kind... Out of gear it idles fine.. In gear, car stopped it idles fine... I've changed the transmission fluid, about to change the plugs, and maybe the fuel injector rail with injectors from my old engine I had saved “just in case”. Someone suggested to me it could be the transmission filter... Does anyone have any thoughts??
FYI: Car has 94,000 miles on it & the engine has 85,000.
#3349 of 3738 Re: 2001 Progete LX surging... [retro_g]
Jul 15, 2008 (11:08 am)
Make sure you reconnected the large vacuum line to the brake booster or that there are no cracks/leaks. It sounds like to could be the source of both issues.
#3350 of 3738 2000 Protege needs new clutch
Jul 18, 2008 (10:20 am)
I've got one shop telling me that I need this, quote from the estimate :
"Replace clutch disk: Includes R&I Transaxle
To R&R Flywheel, Add Clutch disk
To R&R Pilot Bearing, Add Clutch Disk
Clutch Slave Cylinder"
this total is $783... I'm in Northern VA.. pretty high labor costs
Another place's estimate adds up to $700 but they say I need a master cylinder not a slave, they also say I need a front seal.
A third shop says I need a new clutch assembly, drive train (includes replacing pressure plate, Di Pilot and Throw Out Bearing). Also a new flywheel. And they say I don't necessarily need a new slave or master cylinder, but have given me estimates on those as well, for a grand total of a whopping $1330.
I can't tell from this what I really need, and I can't tell which shop I shold work with, all I know is that there's no way I can afford the third if I do all the work. Any advice or suggestions about what I should do????
#3351 of 3738 Re: 2000 Protege needs new clutch [lakeannedave]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jul 18, 2008 (6:15 pm)
I'm a big fan of replacing all the clutch parts, such as:
throw out bearing
clutch slave (depending on mileage, or signs of leaking, filthy fluid, etc)
clutch master (as above)
And yes, the transmission/transaxle has to come out.
HOWEVER, replacing the flylwheel is rather dubious because they haven't inspected it yet. Unless it is badly, and I mean BADLY cracked from heat, it can be resurfaced (a good idea) if ...IF....there is any roughness to it. If you don't resurface a flywheel that is scored or rough, the clutch will chatter, which is most annoying.
$700 sounds fair enough to me if they do everything I mentioned.
A clutch job is not something you want to do again in 20,000 miles. So replace EVERYTHING that requires the transmission to be removed. A clutch slave or clutch master is no biggie, that can be done when it is needed.
And again, I think replacing the flywheel as a preventative measure is extreme and should not be done unless it is really messed up.
#3352 of 3738 speedometer and odometer dont work protege "94
Jul 19, 2008 (9:38 am)
i cant figure out how to get my speedometer and odometer to work. how do i get them working again?
#3353 of 3738 Re: speedometer and odometer dont work protege "94 [aboyer82]
Jul 19, 2008 (6:32 pm)
I had a similar problem. Just all of a sudden, the speedometer would not work and the CEL flashed. I put it in the garage for 5 years. With the rise in gas prices, I brought it out of mothballs and decided to address the issue. It was the speedometer cable that runs from the transmission thru the firewall to the dash (not hard). It is a booger to get at from both ends. Buy a new cable from the dealer. You will have to disassemble the front dash. This is tricky. Be careful of the connections behind the instuments (i.e., lights, displays and all). Easy from the tranny to the dash. Pull the instrument panels slightly forward (not much give at all) and be careful not to disconnect them. Unscrew the current cable and insert the other end of the new cable in the speedometer. Using your fingers (as your eyes) ensure that everything is reconnected (did I mention very snug here). Reinsert the instrument panel and reinstall everything. Not difficult, but a BOOGER to get to. Works like a champ. Good luck!
#3354 of 3738 Rattling near front left wheel
Jul 20, 2008 (12:33 pm)
Just bought my first Mazda -- '02 Protege LX (2.0), AT and such. However, I noticed as I was driving it back down to Los Angeles today that once I get to about 55-60 mph, I start to hear a very noticeable rattling sound from what sounds like the bottom right of the front passenger area, almost behind and a little below the glove compartment. I'm assuming it's probably the strut mounts or the stabilizer links, but is there anything obvious a new zoom-zoomer like me might be missing?
#3355 of 3738 2000 Protege ES idle and intake issues
Jul 21, 2008 (10:22 pm)
Just bought a 2000 Protege ES 1.8L with 5 speed manual, 84K miles. The car runs well but the idle speed seems low (maybe 500 rpm), and the car idles roughly and seems to want to cut out, but never has so far. Previous owner said his mechanic told him it needs idle adjustment. The car was had been in a minor front end accident about a year prior and has a new radiator. There is an intake assembly running from the air filter housing out to the actual air intake on top of the radiator. This was apparently never put back right after the accident, and the tubing doesn't connect well to the filter housing, so that the actual air intake is probably taking place at the base of the housing. I could fix this easily enough, but there also seems to be an opening on the bottom of the tubing, so that either way I'm not really going to be taking in air from the assembly over the radiator. My questions: 1) Should I adjust the idle, or should I try to fix the intake first? 2) What should the intake setup look like? Is there really supposed to be a hole at the bottom of the tubing right as it connects to the air filter housing, or is there supposed to be another hose or something there? If anyone has a car like this and can take a photo of what the intake is supposed to look like, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.
#3356 of 3738 Re: 2000 Protege ES idle and intake issues [paramount13]
Jul 22, 2008 (10:39 am)
Sounds like it's missing the resonance chamber which I doubt would cause the idle to run low.
I highly recommend not messing with the throttle body adjustments. If it is dirty or clogged, clean it. If all the hoses and tubes are in good shape, check the IAC valve under the throttle body.
#3357 of 3738 Re: 2000 Protege ES idle and intake issues [maltb]
Jul 23, 2008 (8:45 pm)
I misspoke. Actually, it idles around 700 rpm, but roughly. It runs beautifully when not at idle. What is involved in cleaning a throttle body or an IAC valve? If I have someone do it, how much will it cost?