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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3600 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
I replaced the water pump on the protege and I took out the timing belt. I marked it before removing it and now I am putting back all the parts back in and it seems that my timing belt if off mark. I followed the Haynes Manual and followed the directions but its not working. Does anyone know what the correct marks are to set the timing. Please help.
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Replying to: jmacias (Jul 13, 2008 10:47 am) Mazda Protege Timing Marks |
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 12, 2008 7:27 am) |
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It's a 2001 Mazda Protege LX 2.0 OK! I've had the car almost 3 years now... My engine crapped out 3 or so months ago. The car sat for a month until I purchased a used engine from a reputable local company. One weekend a friend and I made time to swap the engines. Taking our time we used one day to remove the broken down original engine and the next putting in the purchased used one. All went fine, no problems to mention... I turned the key and it started up and ran like nothing had ever happened... At that point I was very pleased and took her out of his garage for a test spin around the block... The very 1st thing I noticed was a noise like iron wire dragging under the car on the ground. It had at that point sat outside on the street for a good month so surface rust building up on the inside of the rear drums or front rotors is very likely. It was that kind of noise... In addition to that the brakes where nonexistent. I had to bury my foot into to the pedal to stop. I've inspected most if not all brake hardware, changed all pads/shoes and bleed the brake system. The pedal seems very stiff, not spongy & definitely off the floor. It still doesn't stop well at all... I'm down to replacing the master brake cylinder. Does anyone think different?? What about the booster? Could the booster be the route of my brake problem?? OK now on to my next issue two weeks into running the car with the new used engine... I would describe it as a smooth bucking or surging when accelerating from a dead stop. Its worse when the car/engine is cold. It will do it 3-4 up to 7-8 times before smoothing out. Sometimes when warm it won't do it at all, but most the time it will. Other than that it behaves the way it should to me even giving better gas mileage over the old engine before it died. There are no warning lights of any kind... Out of gear it idles fine.. In gear, car stopped it idles fine... I've changed the transmission fluid, about to change the plugs, and maybe the fuel injector rail with injectors from my old engine I had saved “just in case”. Someone suggested to me it could be the transmission filter... Does anyone have any thoughts?? FYI: Car has 94,000 miles on it & the engine has 85,000. 
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Replying to: retro_g (Jul 14, 2008 5:27 am) |
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I've got one shop telling me that I need this, quote from the estimate : "Replace clutch disk: Includes R&I Transaxle To R&R Flywheel, Add Clutch disk To R&R Pilot Bearing, Add Clutch Disk Clutch Disk Clutch Slave Cylinder" this total is $783... I'm in Northern VA.. pretty high labor costs Another place's estimate adds up to $700 but they say I need a master cylinder not a slave, they also say I need a front seal. A third shop says I need a new clutch assembly, drive train (includes replacing pressure plate, Di Pilot and Throw Out Bearing). Also a new flywheel. And they say I don't necessarily need a new slave or master cylinder, but have given me estimates on those as well, for a grand total of a whopping $1330. I can't tell from this what I really need, and I can't tell which shop I shold work with, all I know is that there's no way I can afford the third if I do all the work. Any advice or suggestions about what I should do????
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Replying to: lakeannedave (Jul 18, 2008 9:20 am) clutch disk pressure plate throw out bearing pilot bearing clutch slave (depending on mileage, or signs of leaking, filthy fluid, etc) clutch master (as above) And yes, the transmission/transaxle has to come out. HOWEVER, replacing the flylwheel is rather dubious because they haven't inspected it yet. Unless it is badly, and I mean BADLY cracked from heat, it can be resurfaced (a good idea) if ...IF....there is any roughness to it. If you don't resurface a flywheel that is scored or rough, the clutch will chatter, which is most annoying. $700 sounds fair enough to me if they do everything I mentioned. A clutch job is not something you want to do again in 20,000 miles. So replace EVERYTHING that requires the transmission to be removed. A clutch slave or clutch master is no biggie, that can be done when it is needed. And again, I think replacing the flywheel as a preventative measure is extreme and should not be done unless it is really messed up. Visiting Host |
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i cant figure out how to get my speedometer and odometer to work. how do i get them working again?
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Replying to: aboyer82 (Jul 19, 2008 8:38 am) |
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Hey All, Just bought my first Mazda -- '02 Protege LX (2.0), AT and such. However, I noticed as I was driving it back down to Los Angeles today that once I get to about 55-60 mph, I start to hear a very noticeable rattling sound from what sounds like the bottom right of the front passenger area, almost behind and a little below the glove compartment. I'm assuming it's probably the strut mounts or the stabilizer links, but is there anything obvious a new zoom-zoomer like me might be missing? Thanks, Rob |
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