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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3600 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 11, 2008 5:57 am) Why leave it off? All leaving it off does is prevent the transmission from entering its highest gear (which happens to be O/D). Perhaps if e feels the price of gas is too cheap, this is a good idea.
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Replying to: anogan (Jun 12, 2008 6:12 pm) |
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| I have an 02 Mazda Protege ES with the sport mode auto transmission with 106K miles on it. For the most part, the car has been running great. But recently the car would sometimes shudder for a second when I'm pulling away from a traffic light or stop sign then runs smoothly while cruising. I'm suspecting that it might be a minor transmission problem because I'm overdue for a transmission service(the fluid is brown). I'm going to take it to the dealership to get a transmission flush to hopefully cure the problem. Has anyone had simillar problems with shuddering on take off with their Mazda Protege? Please let me know. | |
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Replying to: maltb (Jul 11, 2008 8:33 am) What you get with driving at low speeds in OD is "lugging" of the engine, which is the most stressful of all conditions for an engine. Aside from all that, if you stomp on the gas while in OD at 25-35 mph, you just fall flat until the car downshifts. I don't think you are saving any gas by driving in OD at very low speeds. You might actually be wasting it because you need more throttle to get anywhere.
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I replaced the water pump on the protege and I took out the timing belt. I marked it before removing it and now I am putting back all the parts back in and it seems that my timing belt if off mark. I followed the Haynes Manual and followed the directions but its not working. Does anyone know what the correct marks are to set the timing. Please help.
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Replying to: jmacias (Jul 13, 2008 10:47 am) Mazda Protege Timing Marks |
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 12, 2008 7:27 am) |
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It's a 2001 Mazda Protege LX 2.0 OK! I've had the car almost 3 years now... My engine crapped out 3 or so months ago. The car sat for a month until I purchased a used engine from a reputable local company. One weekend a friend and I made time to swap the engines. Taking our time we used one day to remove the broken down original engine and the next putting in the purchased used one. All went fine, no problems to mention... I turned the key and it started up and ran like nothing had ever happened... At that point I was very pleased and took her out of his garage for a test spin around the block... The very 1st thing I noticed was a noise like iron wire dragging under the car on the ground. It had at that point sat outside on the street for a good month so surface rust building up on the inside of the rear drums or front rotors is very likely. It was that kind of noise... In addition to that the brakes where nonexistent. I had to bury my foot into to the pedal to stop. I've inspected most if not all brake hardware, changed all pads/shoes and bleed the brake system. The pedal seems very stiff, not spongy & definitely off the floor. It still doesn't stop well at all... I'm down to replacing the master brake cylinder. Does anyone think different?? What about the booster? Could the booster be the route of my brake problem?? OK now on to my next issue two weeks into running the car with the new used engine... I would describe it as a smooth bucking or surging when accelerating from a dead stop. Its worse when the car/engine is cold. It will do it 3-4 up to 7-8 times before smoothing out. Sometimes when warm it won't do it at all, but most the time it will. Other than that it behaves the way it should to me even giving better gas mileage over the old engine before it died. There are no warning lights of any kind... Out of gear it idles fine.. In gear, car stopped it idles fine... I've changed the transmission fluid, about to change the plugs, and maybe the fuel injector rail with injectors from my old engine I had saved “just in case”. Someone suggested to me it could be the transmission filter... Does anyone have any thoughts?? FYI: Car has 94,000 miles on it & the engine has 85,000. 
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Replying to: retro_g (Jul 14, 2008 5:27 am) |
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I've got one shop telling me that I need this, quote from the estimate : "Replace clutch disk: Includes R&I Transaxle To R&R Flywheel, Add Clutch disk To R&R Pilot Bearing, Add Clutch Disk Clutch Disk Clutch Slave Cylinder" this total is $783... I'm in Northern VA.. pretty high labor costs Another place's estimate adds up to $700 but they say I need a master cylinder not a slave, they also say I need a front seal. A third shop says I need a new clutch assembly, drive train (includes replacing pressure plate, Di Pilot and Throw Out Bearing). Also a new flywheel. And they say I don't necessarily need a new slave or master cylinder, but have given me estimates on those as well, for a grand total of a whopping $1330. I can't tell from this what I really need, and I can't tell which shop I shold work with, all I know is that there's no way I can afford the third if I do all the work. Any advice or suggestions about what I should do????
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