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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

3600 messages,  Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda Protege, Sedan

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#3339 of 3600 location and how to change plugs by lnstar44 Jul 07, 2008 (9:43 am)
anyone know first where the sparkplugs on a 01 protege es are located and any special tools i would need to change
#3340 of 3600 Re: wheel well liner [david_w_dong] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Jul 11, 2008 (5:57 am)
Replying to: david_w_dong (Jul 07, 2008 12:45 pm) I would turn it off for both longevity of the overdrive and for better performance in traffic. Replies to this message: maltb (Jul 11, 2008 8:33 am) Mr_Shiftright (Jul 12, 2008 7:27 am) maltb (Jul 14, 2008 7:28 am)
#3341 of 3600 Re: wheel well liner [Mr_Shiftright] by maltb Jul 11, 2008 (8:33 am)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 11, 2008 5:57 am) Shifty, Why leave it off? All leaving it off does is prevent the transmission from entering its highest gear (which happens to be O/D). Perhaps if e feels the price of gas is too cheap, this is a good idea. Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 12, 2008 7:27 am) maltb (Jul 14, 2008 7:28 am)
#3342 of 3600 Re: 2003 AC problems [anogan] by leswallace43 Jul 11, 2008 (2:14 pm)
Replying to: anogan (Jun 12, 2008 6:12 pm) Don't know about the "buzzing noise" but I just yesterday finished replacing the center switch on my p5 that only wrkd on step 1 and 4. Switch ( new one ordered thru dealer approx $32) was burned in center and close to starting fire. Last week I thought I'd smelled something burning. Anyway it was fairly easy to replace if yu know what to do and had the right tools. I did not! Gently pry the large plastic outline off at top, sides and bottom. Next gently pop the three center direction knobs from their sockets. Two of mine were stuck but did work out with very thin screwdriver. Unclip the 4 way flasher connection at the top to give you more room. Then there are 4 phillips screws at bottom of the frame, one on each side in back and two on the bottom. Here's where you need very short screwdriver since you can't get a standard one behind. One of those small "L'" shaped screwdrivers with phillips on one end and standard on the other works perfect. The ac/heater module will then come loose so you can get inside to unscrew the red plastic cover and get to the plastic nut on the back of the switch. I didn't have the right tools so it took me about 4 hours in 96 degree heat with sweaty glasses to get it all back but now it works great and I did save the 82 dollar per hour labor cost. Hope this helps.
#3343 of 3600 shudder on take off by donwilson2 Jul 11, 2008 (3:51 pm)
I have an 02 Mazda Protege ES with the sport mode auto transmission with 106K miles on it. For the most part, the car has been running great. But recently the car would sometimes shudder for a second when I'm pulling away from a traffic light or stop sign then runs smoothly while cruising. I'm suspecting that it might be a minor transmission problem because I'm overdue for a transmission service(the fluid is brown). I'm going to take it to the dealership to get a transmission flush to hopefully cure the problem. Has anyone had simillar problems with shuddering on take off with their Mazda Protege? Please let me know.
#3344 of 3600 Re: wheel well liner [maltb] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Jul 12, 2008 (7:27 am)
Replying to: maltb (Jul 11, 2008 8:33 am) Overdrive is not efficient at too low a speed---if anything, driving in OD at 25 mph puts a lot of strain on the engine and the transmission. It's no accident that many new cars have temperature sensors that don't even LET you into overdrive until the engine and transmission are warmed up.   What you get with driving at low speeds in OD is "lugging" of the engine, which is the most stressful of all conditions for an engine.   Aside from all that, if you stomp on the gas while in OD at 25-35 mph, you just fall flat until the car downshifts.   I don't think you are saving any gas by driving in OD at very low speeds. You might actually be wasting it because you need more throttle to get anywhere. Replies to this message: maltb (Jul 14, 2008 7:28 am)
#3345 of 3600 Need timing belt marks for 2000 Protege by jmacias Jul 13, 2008 (10:47 am)
I replaced the water pump on the protege and I took out the timing belt. I marked it before removing it and now I am putting back all the parts back in and it seems that my timing belt if off mark. I followed the Haynes Manual and followed the directions but its not working. Does anyone know what the correct marks are to set the timing. Please help. Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 14, 2008 5:57 am)
#3346 of 3600 Re: Need timing belt marks for 2000 Protege [jmacias] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Jul 14, 2008 (5:57 am)
Replying to: jmacias (Jul 13, 2008 10:47 am) Here you go:   Mazda Protege Timing Marks
#3347 of 3600 Re: wheel well liner [Mr_Shiftright] by maltb Jul 14, 2008 (7:28 am)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 12, 2008 7:27 am) The car will not shift into OD at 25-35mph (regardless of OD switch position) unless the load drops down around zero. Protege transmissions have been electronically controlled since the early 90s.
#3348 of 3600 2001 Progete LX surging... by retro_g Jul 14, 2008 (5:27 am)
It's a 2001 Mazda Protege LX 2.0   OK! I've had the car almost 3 years now... My engine crapped out 3 or so months ago. The car sat for a month until I purchased a used engine from a reputable local company. One weekend a friend and I made time to swap the engines. Taking our time we used one day to remove the broken down original engine and the next putting in the purchased used one. All went fine, no problems to mention... I turned the key and it started up and ran like nothing had ever happened... At that point I was very pleased and took her out of his garage for a test spin around the block...   The very 1st thing I noticed was a noise like iron wire dragging under the car on the ground. It had at that point sat outside on the street for a good month so surface rust building up on the inside of the rear drums or front rotors is very likely. It was that kind of noise... In addition to that the brakes where nonexistent. I had to bury my foot into to the pedal to stop. I've inspected most if not all brake hardware, changed all pads/shoes and bleed the brake system. The pedal seems very stiff, not spongy & definitely off the floor. It still doesn't stop well at all... I'm down to replacing the master brake cylinder. Does anyone think different?? What about the booster? Could the booster be the route of my brake problem??   OK now on to my next issue two weeks into running the car with the new used engine... I would describe it as a smooth bucking or surging when accelerating from a dead stop. Its worse when the car/engine is cold. It will do it 3-4 up to 7-8 times before smoothing out. Sometimes when warm it won't do it at all, but most the time it will. Other than that it behaves the way it should to me even giving better gas mileage over the old engine before it died. There are no warning lights of any kind... Out of gear it idles fine.. In gear, car stopped it idles fine... I've changed the transmission fluid, about to change the plugs, and maybe the fuel injector rail with injectors from my old engine I had saved “just in case”. Someone suggested to me it could be the transmission filter... Does anyone have any thoughts??   FYI: Car has 94,000 miles on it & the engine has 85,000.   Replies to this message: maltb (Jul 15, 2008 10:08 am)

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