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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3600 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: syd968 (Jan 01, 2008 1:59 pm) You may be both right. My manual has several schedules and some footnotes. In one footnote, for example the manual says: If vehicle is operated in cold districts {below -18 °C (0 °F)}, replace the timing belt at 96,000 km (60,000 miles). Also, you may want to consider changing the belt if you're driving with "unique driving conditions". According to the manual, "Unique driving conditions consist of : Repeated short-distance driving. Driving in dusty conditions. Driving with extended use of brakes. Driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are used. Driving on rough or muddy roads. Extended periods of idling or low-speed operation. Driving for long periods in cold temperatures or extremely humid climates."
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Replying to: autonomous (Jan 03, 2008 10:15 am)
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Replying to: syd968 (Jan 03, 2008 6:29 pm) I changed mine at about 60K miles ... which is when my water pump failed. Which reminds me that it's not only the timing belt that needs replacing. You should also ask about any other components (especially belts) that can fail in the area of the timing belt. Try calling a few independent garages and ask them what they recommend. You may find that they will recommend several services be done at the same time as the timing belt change. My understanding is that the real cost in a timing belt change is the "time"  it takes to get to it by removing / unhooking other components. In other words, while you're there changing one belt you might as well do the related services to avoid the hours it will take in the future to handle the other belts.
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Hey all. We think the Check Engine Light issue is finally resolved. What the dealership did was take the coils from another Mazda and place them into my wife's car. So far, no check engine light, no hesitation and no issues. I am hoping this is the end of that crisis. Thanks. Dave
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Replying to: davidingilbert (Jan 09, 2008 6:24 am) |
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What causes and uneven idle speed from 400 to 1500 or 2000, then back to 400-500. 99 Mazda Protege 1.6 L engine, manual shift.
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Replying to: karinier (Jan 10, 2008 2:49 pm) - Stuck EGR valve - Air or Vacum Leak Protege EGR valves tend to get clogged with carbon. If they get stuck open, it will result in very poor idle, and reduced fuel economy. If you're mechanically inclined, you can remove it, and either clean it or replace. Do a google search on "HowTo Protege EGR Cleaning". Vacum leaks will screw up idle. Check all your vacum lines. The air boot (corrugated hose between the air filter and the intake) tends to crack, allowing air in. This will screw up idle. Remove this boot and check for cracks/tears. That's a start anyway. |
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My 1995 protege, has suddenly decided it doesn't want to idle, if I pull up to a stop sign or put the brakes on it dies, It is a 5 sp. I am at my wits end, I'm thinking throttle sensor, bad gas, bad fuel pump, help, I'm totally embarrassed to drive it anywhere because of the way it acts. It is bad enough that even when I take off, it surges in 1st gear and I almost have to take off in 2nd. Can anyone give me any kind of help. Also is there anyway besides taking car to dealer to get codes read.
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Replying to: schesney (Jan 14, 2008 2:14 pm) Sure, there are lots of independent garages that can handle a Mazda protege; you don't need to go to the dealership. You can even try some auto shops which advertize free code reading. |
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i own a well maintained 2000 mazda protege dx 1.6L manual transmission, recently the check engine light has come on, its not always on but eventually does come on every time i drive it. when the check engine light comes on the car fails to accelerate smoothly, it seems to either decelerate or be accelerating at full throttle there is no middle ground. this problem often subsides only to return a few minutes later. This is the only vehicle i own, so can someone please help me?
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