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Sedans Mazda Protege Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair
3600 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 3:21 PM
You are in the Mazda Protege Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
I decided to do some of my own investigating into the check engine light problem I'm having with my 2003 Protege' 5 and happened to stumble upon this website .... EUREKA I think I've come to the right place. My Protege has 130,000 miles on it and about six weeks or so ago I began having an intermittent problem with the check engine light coming on - typically it would flash for maybe 5-10 seconds and occasionally it would act as if it was going die during this 5-10 seconds, then it would go to a steady on position - sometimes it would stay on for a day or two, one time for almost a week but then it would just turn off. The code read a P0300 Random Misfire but the tech  the dealership couldn't get the car to repeat the action. Anyway, this has continued to be a hit and miss problem until yesterday when the check engine light came on & wouldn't quit blinking. Towed it to the dealer who tells me that my cat converter is toast but they can't figure out why - I'm still getting the random misfire code however, in their words, my car was running great & purring like a kitten. Come to find out that in addition to mine, they had TWO other 2003 Protege's in yesterday with the SAME exact symptoms (only their cats aren't toast yet) and they aren't able to diagnose those either. Because it's pretty unusual to have THREE cars w/ the same problem come in on the same day, they'll be calling their technical advisor today to get more information - I'm PRAYING that this is a known issue & that I'm going to get some help fixing it! I appreciate any information you can give me regarding any recalls, etc on this issue. Thanking you in advance - Debbi
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Replying to: syd968 (Jan 01, 2008 1:59 pm) You may be both right. My manual has several schedules and some footnotes. In one footnote, for example the manual says: If vehicle is operated in cold districts {below -18 °C (0 °F)}, replace the timing belt at 96,000 km (60,000 miles). Also, you may want to consider changing the belt if you're driving with "unique driving conditions". According to the manual, "Unique driving conditions consist of : Repeated short-distance driving. Driving in dusty conditions. Driving with extended use of brakes. Driving in areas where salt or other corrosive materials are used. Driving on rough or muddy roads. Extended periods of idling or low-speed operation. Driving for long periods in cold temperatures or extremely humid climates."
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Replying to: autonomous (Jan 03, 2008 10:15 am)
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Replying to: syd968 (Jan 03, 2008 6:29 pm) I changed mine at about 60K miles ... which is when my water pump failed. Which reminds me that it's not only the timing belt that needs replacing. You should also ask about any other components (especially belts) that can fail in the area of the timing belt. Try calling a few independent garages and ask them what they recommend. You may find that they will recommend several services be done at the same time as the timing belt change. My understanding is that the real cost in a timing belt change is the "time"  it takes to get to it by removing / unhooking other components. In other words, while you're there changing one belt you might as well do the related services to avoid the hours it will take in the future to handle the other belts.
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Hey all. We think the Check Engine Light issue is finally resolved. What the dealership did was take the coils from another Mazda and place them into my wife's car. So far, no check engine light, no hesitation and no issues. I am hoping this is the end of that crisis. Thanks. Dave
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Replying to: davidingilbert (Jan 09, 2008 6:24 am) |
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What causes and uneven idle speed from 400 to 1500 or 2000, then back to 400-500. 99 Mazda Protege 1.6 L engine, manual shift.
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Replying to: karinier (Jan 10, 2008 2:49 pm) - Stuck EGR valve - Air or Vacum Leak Protege EGR valves tend to get clogged with carbon. If they get stuck open, it will result in very poor idle, and reduced fuel economy. If you're mechanically inclined, you can remove it, and either clean it or replace. Do a google search on "HowTo Protege EGR Cleaning". Vacum leaks will screw up idle. Check all your vacum lines. The air boot (corrugated hose between the air filter and the intake) tends to crack, allowing air in. This will screw up idle. Remove this boot and check for cracks/tears. That's a start anyway. |
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My 1995 protege, has suddenly decided it doesn't want to idle, if I pull up to a stop sign or put the brakes on it dies, It is a 5 sp. I am at my wits end, I'm thinking throttle sensor, bad gas, bad fuel pump, help, I'm totally embarrassed to drive it anywhere because of the way it acts. It is bad enough that even when I take off, it surges in 1st gear and I almost have to take off in 2nd. Can anyone give me any kind of help. Also is there anyway besides taking car to dealer to get codes read.
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Replying to: schesney (Jan 14, 2008 2:14 pm) Sure, there are lots of independent garages that can handle a Mazda protege; you don't need to go to the dealership. You can even try some auto shops which advertize free code reading. |
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