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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#2990 of 3742 Mazda rough idle with AC on
Jul 15, 2006 (1:09 pm)
I have a 1994 Protege DX (SOHC)5 Speed that idles very rough at a stop as well as bucking as gears are changed. This happens most noticeably when AC is on. Turn AC off at a light, and rough idle stops immediately. The car when first started in the morning and AC on, will not buck or rough idle until engine warms up. I can also duplicate the rough idle with AC off and steering wheel turned all the way R or L. So it appears heavy loads are doing something. The voltage at the battery remains steady under load. There are no codes showing.
Here is what I have done so far:
Wires are fairly new and look good
New distributor cap and rotor.
Cleaned throttle body
New air filter
New fuel filter
Checked for restrictions and or cracks in air hose.
Checked vacuum lines for cracks ect.
Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you
#2991 of 3742 99 Protege rattling/buzzing/vibrating problem
Jul 17, 2006 (9:34 am)
Recently my wife's 99 protege has been making a vibrating/buzzing sound that happens most notably whenever the car accelerates and hits 2500 RPM's. In the time since we first heard the noise, it has gotten progressivly worse, happening more often and louder each time we drive. Now, we hear the buzzing at 3000 RPM's as well, and its starting to buzz when idling and during 1st gear.
I've tried to research this a lot, and naturally found a helluva lot of things that it could be. I was wondering though if a clogged/dirty Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve/system could cause this buzzing, as this has given the car fits before. Something else that's weird, all this time the A/C has been on, but this morning when my wife drove to work, she turned the A/C off and the sound was dramatically quieter. Thoughts???
Im scheduled to take the car in later this week, but I was hoping that someone out there could at least give me a heads up as to what this could be, and if there would be anything I, quite inexperienced with cars, might be able to check out beforehand. Thanks a bunch in advance!!!
#2992 of 3742 Idle Problem/$$$
Jul 23, 2006 (1:38 pm)
Greetings everybody, wow-what a great forum! Looking for a little help here.
My problem(s) approximate messages 2881 & 2642 (ROUGH IDLE ISSUES): Out of nowhere my car started stalling in drive when I pulled up to a stop sign or light (in DC traffic this is a killer). Also, I noticed that the RPM would move from 500-800-1000 and back on down (I assume this is meant when folks say rolling). Then the check engine light went on. I took it into a place that I trust (I am new in Silver Spring, MD but had to do a Maryland State inspection and was charged nothing). They replaced the plugs, cables, and cleaned the fuel injector (plus the hook-up fee) in response to the P0300 multiple misfire issue.
Well, I got it back after $400 (oil included because it was time anyway). The mechanic stated that the O2 sensor (he said there were two and this was the second one) was going and on its way out—but I could change that later. I drove it out of the shop and around a bit. It did not stall. BUT it still had the rolling idle slightly…and RPM sank to 500 with a small rattle. I brought it back and stated my car had not been “tuned” to the point I want it to be. They told me to drive it around a bit. Well, the next day the engine light came on and I took it back. The service area was closed but I made the worker call the owner so that I have it documented that the light came back on.
Summary: Fixed plugs, cables and cleaned injectors in response to a P0300 error.
Car does not stall but shimmies at a stop (while in drive) and engine light is now on).
Like I have stated, I have read, with great enthusiasm, the posts on this topic thus far and am looking for advice as to how to best proceed with this repair (meaning what I should insist the mechanic look at –and not-). I don’t think I could find the IAC valve solenoid on my own (one post here sugggested and I clean it) and I am further inclined to believe that this is a good thing. We love the car and want to keep it forever. Any advice would be great.
#2994 of 3742 Re: Idle Problem/$$$ [rpcvmatt]
Jul 24, 2006 (1:56 pm)
My posting last month in the Protege5 Problems and Solutions forum may be useful to you:
I recently had my 02 P5 in the shop for similar symptoms. When I described the situation to the service rep (check engine light appears; rough while idling at a stop) he said: "It's probably your EGR valve, we replace lots of them as they get fouled by dirty gasoline." The technician ran a diagnostic and reported a P300 code (random cylinder misfire detected); a new EGR was installed (curiously the EGR malfunction codes are in the P400 range). Since then the P5 has been working properly. I have also heard that it is wise to get a throttle body cleaning every couple of years to clean out the gunk.
Best of luck and keep us updated.
#2995 of 3742 Re: Idle Problem/$$$ [autonomous]
Jul 24, 2006 (2:53 pm)
Thanks for the response---UPDATE:
Got the car back today. Mechanic said he cleaned the AGR valve and it was a little rusty--but OK. He said it was working.
My wife drove it for 15 minutes and it still shimmered. he did not charge us anything for it. He asked for 1 more day.
The first time I took it in he said 1 of my O2 sensors had strange readings. We'll see. I wish I know a trustworthy garage in this new town (Silver Spring, MD) that we just moved to. I am steps away from taking it to the dealor.
Thanks again for your comment.
#2996 of 3742 I'd take it to the dealer NOW.
Jul 26, 2006 (4:53 am)
By the time this independent shop gets through taking whacks at your problem, and you wind up going to the dealer anyway, you probably will have paid twice to fix your problem.
I think dealerships get unfairly berated sometimes (and no, I don't work for one). Who would know more about a Protege -- some shop that sees one a year, each with a different problem, or a dealer's shop that sees several a day? And if you check labor rates, the dealerships and shops are all about the same these days. Plus a dealer is more likely to know -- or have better access to -- TSBs related to your car, and they'll probably have a better warranty on new parts -- plus you'll get real Mazda parts, not NAPA equivalents.
Nowadays there are other reasons too. My 2005 Mazda3 always goes to the dealership, even for oil changes, because the dealership gave me free oil changes for the first 36,000 miles. Even after that, it's still a good deal to take it to the dealer -- an oil change is only $24.95, and they provide a free loaner car if I don't want to wait around. Also I got free tires for life, as long as I do my maintenance at the dealership. I'm coming up on 25K miles and my first set of tires that I don't have to pay $700 for!
#2997 of 3742 Re: I'd take it to the dealer NOW. [mdaffron]
Jul 26, 2006 (5:14 am)
my cousin who used to be part of a Mazda Miata in a Detroit club who stated just about the same thing. I think you are absolutely right and I am going to take it to the dealer if it is not OK after tonight.
The shop is going to install a new EGR valve at the cost of the part ( I saw the receipt and what they paid for it) w/no labor charge since I had already paid for a tune-up. If it still does not work, after a replacement EGR valve, plugs, cables, fuel injector cleaning, I was also told by a Mazda mechanic to disconnect the battery cables (not a simply reset from the dash) because there may be electronic demons in the computer. I will loose my radio presets but should otherwise be fine (this was the FIRST thing I should have done). Note: I have not done this yet so people reading should NOT take this as a solution.
Thanks again for your advice. This site is great. Thanks to the moderators.
#2998 of 3742 Re: I'd take it to the dealer NOW. [rpcvmatt]
Jul 26, 2006 (1:05 pm)
I'm thinking the stumbling may be the result of a messed up throttle body, or lack of proper fuel pressure to the injector rail.
Did anyone diagnose your problem, or are they just throwing parts and services at it?
#2999 of 3742 Stalls at idle when the lights are on.
Jul 26, 2006 (1:12 pm)
Just bought a 96 Protege w/ 5 speed this past weekend. I changed the oil, filter, air filter, PCV, Plugs and wires and then had a clutch installed. The CEL was on so my mechanic checked for a problem and could not find one, so turned off the light. As the sun was setting, I turned the lights on and she drove fine until I stopped at a light. The car stalled, I restarted her then proceeded on. The next light same thing. Then at each light I would turn off the lights and she idled fine. Could it be a battery going bad? Any suggestions would be helpful.