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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

3738 messages,  Last post on Apr 23, 2013 at 10:59 AM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda Protege, Sedan

Messages Page 289 of 375

#2877 of 3738 Re: Engine issues [kelbel] by hboyd

Apr 01, 2006 (12:30 pm)

Replying to: kelbel (Mar 29, 2006 3:54 pm)
More than likely, it's the dreaded "stuck open" EGR code and issue plaging our Proteges. Get the DTC code read ASAP. Here is a Mazda M-tip that may be applicable:
 
ROUGH IDLE - DTC P0300, EGR VALVE STICKING OPEN
Applicable Models
2001 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
2002 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
2003 - Protege VIN Range: 000000 - ZZZZZZ;
Symptoms
020 ENGINE HARD START
030 ROUGH IDLE
050 ENG. STALLS DRVING-WILL RESTART
620 DOES NOT TURN OFF/WARNING LIGHT
MTOL - 4166 Dealer Repair Information
Symptoms and Conditions
Some customers may experience an intermittent or constant rough idle
with MIL illumination and DTC P0300 and/or P0401 being stored in memory.
 
This condition may be the result of rust accumulation on the EGR valve shaft causing the valve stick open. A shield has been added to the valve's body to prevent reoccurrence of this condition.
 
Repair Procedure
When you encounter a vehicle with this concern inspect the EGR valve for this condition and if necessary replace the valve with the improved part.
 
EGR VALVE Part No. FSY1-20-300-9U
Gasket Part No. JE27-20-305A
 
-- FYI: the EGR valve can also be cleaned thoroughly with carbon cleaner and reinstalled. If vehicle is under warranty, get dealership to perform this check and necessary replacement. Could also be dirty/sticking IAC solenoid assembly. I had both cleaned on my 2001 2.0 ES and solved a rough idling/near stall condition. Give me more details.

#2878 of 3738 Re: 1999 Protege - fixes for EGR codes [kbinatl] by hboyd

Apr 02, 2006 (10:57 am)

Replying to: kbinatl (Mar 27, 2006 11:00 am)
P0402 = EGR Flow excessive detected
 
Chances are more than anything that it may be a bad seal between the EGR assembly and intake manifold. Probably a bad metal gasket or mechanic failed to adequately tighten unit/re-install gasket. This is critical to get a proper seal. These are the first things to check as per workshop manual. Was the EGR spring valve fully inspected for proper mechanical operation and lubed? Was EGR solenoid electrical resistance checked? Don't replace any parts until deemed failed or impractical to repair!

#2879 of 3738 Re: 1999 Protege ES whistling noise from the engine [rboetsma] by civiletti

Apr 03, 2006 (11:45 am)

Replying to: rboetsma (Mar 31, 2006 8:04 am)
It could be the serpentine belt or one of the components driven by it. Rig up a stethoscope [rubber tube, perhaps] and see if you can localize the sound. Be careful, though!

#2880 of 3738 Re: Overdrive Off Gone [cheeshead6] by gemeni71

Apr 14, 2006 (3:17 pm)

Replying to: cheeshead6 (Oct 23, 2005 7:08 pm)
I have the same problem with my 2003 lx, the light was working fine and now it's gone. Taking it in to see? Any solution to yours.

#2881 of 3738 One rough idle issue can be solved! by hboyd

Apr 14, 2006 (7:30 pm)

For anybody with a rough/rolling idle issue, inspect and clean your IAC (Idle Air Control) valve solenoid assembly. You only have to remove two, tamper-resistant T-25 screws on top of the IAC valve solenoid. The bypass valve plunger gets a lot of carbon build-up and sticks to the body. I carefully cleaned mine with some Deep Creep and did a SeaFoam intake treatment. Smoothed out the idle very well. May not solve all idle issues, but worked on my 2.0L w/68K. [I also changed plugs to OEM NGK V-Power and inspected/cleaned EGR.] I wouldn't waste my money on expensive, unnecessary, often over-pushed Mazda dealer services if you're off warranty.

#2882 of 3738 Re: mazda trouble [chatrat] by porstech

Apr 15, 2006 (2:06 pm)

Replying to: chatrat (Aug 22, 2000 5:55 am)
sounds like your lower control arm bushings are broken or you have a broken motor mount

#2884 of 3738 EGR P0400 error by ja25ca

Apr 15, 2006 (5:50 pm)

I'm pretty sure this is the problem the check engine light is on and this is the code. How hard is it to replace the EGR valve on a 97 mazda protege. I'd like to know if there are any tricks or special tools to get the existing off and put the new one on correctly. Should I get the gasket as well? It looks like two bolts and it should slip right off, but on the mount between the plug for the electrical and the housing that fits into the engine there appear to be 4 screws. Do these need to come off to get the EGR out?
 
I'm a non-mechanic, but am handy. About how long should it take me worst case.
 
Thanks,

#2885 of 3738 Re: EGR P0400 error [ja25ca] by jrdwyer

Apr 16, 2006 (8:46 pm)

Replying to: ja25ca (Apr 15, 2006 5:50 pm)
This is pretty easy to do. I replaced mine on my '95 Protege as the new part was only around $75. The old one was clogged up with carbon deposits. I used some swivel attachments for my ratchet and sockets to get the nuts off. I don't remember buying a seperate gasket, but it has been several years. The replacement part for my '95 1.5L was Borg Warner EGR1122.
 
I suppose you could carefully clean the old one out and put it back in if the replacement part is really expensive.
 
You are also supposed to clean out any ports when doing an EGR job. This is actually hard to do given the location of the EGR valve behind the intake manifold. I did the best I could with a small rag, an old toothbrush, and some solvent.
 
You can also get some auto shops to clean out the EGR valve and the port with a chemical cleaner. Ideally, this should be done every 30K-50K miles before the carbon buildup is heavy and tough to remove.
 
194K miles and still running great!

#2886 of 3738 Re: ATX Repair Journey Completed!! [laurentyves] by sambo4

Apr 17, 2006 (2:09 pm)

Replying to: laurentyves (Mar 28, 2006 10:48 am)
I had a similiar problem with my Protege..."O/D Off" light
followed by the transmission shifting abruptly into 2nd gear. This would happen every 5 minutes or so, especially with a cold engine, strangely enough. When warm, it would do it every 15 min. or so. I let this go on for 2 weeks before taking it into a transmission shop. The manager said he would do a scan, and within 15 min. told me I needed a new tranny. I took it somewhere else for a 2nd opinion, and this time requested a printout with the scan ( it was free either way, so.) Anyways, turned out to be a Throttle-Position Sensor, which caused about $ 200.00 including labour to fix. No problems since.
By the way, I've got a 2000 Protege with 480,000km. Runs like new!

Messages Page 289 of 375

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