Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 3:03 AM
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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#2857 of 3742 '01 ATX Problem diagnosed! Yippee!
Mar 06, 2006 (8:48 pm)
Okay. I had my ATX TCM scanned by a local independant trans shop. The Snap-On Redbox OBDII reader found one DTC: P0745 -- Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction or related circuit. [Don't rely on those cheap AutoZone generic DTC scanners!]
Mechanic cleared code and car drove normally for about 2 weeks. Dreaded O/D light flashed again and car shifted roughly -- thanks Mazda for the crappy transmission! Mechanic confirmed that it was the same code upon rescan.
ATX mechanic and a couple Mazda Techs stated that the solenoid is relatively "easy" to replace and a common failed part (typically Shift 'E' and pressure control) on our ATXs. Part costs about $75 through a great online source. Not a great sign at only 67K and mostly freeway miles.
Anyone ever dropped the pan before and changed one of these bad boys? Clue me in.
#2858 of 3742 98 Protege attempts suicide
Mar 09, 2006 (6:56 am)
I have a 98 Protege, and lately have been having a strange problem. When driving at highway speed, my engine just DIES. Completely stalls. The lights stay on, (no check engine or oil light come on as with another poster's problem) but I am unable to restart the car for several minutes. If I try to start before waiting a couple of minutes, the engine turns over but does not start.
Does anyone have any suggestions about where I should start to look for a problem? Because this is so strange, it is difficult to diagnose. Any suggestions/help would be greatly appreciated, Thank you!
#2859 of 3742 Re: Grinding noise on brake. [mazdafun]
Mar 14, 2006 (6:31 pm)
#2860 of 3742 1998 Mazda Protege Touring Edition brake problem
Mar 14, 2006 (6:46 pm)
My car has 4 wheel disk brakes, I am having a problem removing the pads from the calipers because their is a friction fit pin securing the pads to the calipers.
Can any one tell me how to remove these pins.
You can see a picture of these pins at:
#2861 of 3742 Re: 1998 Mazda Protege Touring Edition brake problem [protege98]
Mar 15, 2006 (4:16 am)
Remove the retaining clips, tap the pins out far enough with a small punch to grasp the heads with pliers, and pull them out. Note the orientation of the anti-rattle springs. Clean the pins off with a wire wheel or sandpaper, and lubricate them with a light film of silicone brake lube before reassembly.
#2862 of 3742 ATX Repair Journey Completed!!
Mar 17, 2006 (8:30 am)
ATX IS FIXED!! (See my previous posts) Dropped the trans pan and there were ALL the solenoids staring at me and easily serviceable without dropping the valve body. One 10mm bolt secures the EPC solenoid onto the solenoid assembly of the valve body. It is sealed in the valvebody with a small o-ring (comes with solenoid).
I OHM'd the solenoid directly on the vehicle and it read DEAD OPEN between both terminal A & B; the ATX case wiring harness terminals (D & I) already confirmed this reading.
Remove 10mm bolt and wiring harness. Then carefully pull out solenoid horizontally; you will get some resistance from the o-ring seal... just pull smartly and be carefull of sharp parts...!
Install the new solenoid by lubricating the o-ring with new ATX fluid and follow the above-stated directions in reverse. Push in solenoid gently and it should "snap in" place on the valvebody. I tested the new solenoid and it did indeed pass with a reading of 4.4 OHMS (normal = 2.4-7.2).
Since the fluid looked deteriorated (cloudy, dirty reddish), I changed the filter too. Really easy! Pull down old filter and put a new o-ring (or reuse old one) on the integrated pipe. Lube the o-ring with fluid. Gently push back up into assembly and reattach TFT sensor. Cleaned pan and magnet (pretty dirty after only one year). Reattached pan with black RTV (pain in the butt) and torqued bolts gently. Don't overtighten otherwise RTV is sqeezed out!
Fill up with new ATX fluid (Dextron III) at the dipstick orifice with EXACTLY the same amount of fluid drained during the service -- I got about 4 qts. Start up engine and check for leaks and fluid level. Carefully change gears -- WITH ALL BRAKES ON -- to get fluid in all channels and check fluid again and again. No more O/D light flashing and ATX shifts perfectly! Will see if it holds up during road testing! Happy repairing people!
#2863 of 3742 2000 Mazda Protege Stalling Problem - Help!
Mar 18, 2006 (2:35 pm)
Our 2000 Mazda Protege has developed a stalling problem. When in heavy stop & go traffic for a while, the car dies and won't restart until it sits for 10 or 15 minutes. Car tries to start when you turn the key and it turns over, but won't start until the time passes. Have had it to shop, and the Cam sensor gets a faulty reading put the shop doesn't think thatis the problem. They think it may be the fuel filter which is built into the gas tank, & will cost $85 just to pull the gas tank to check the filter. Anybody have had this problem? Any sugggestions or solutions would be appreciated.
#2864 of 3742 Sudden Acceleration Problem
Mar 18, 2006 (3:17 pm)
I've just bought a 2002 Protege LX. The car seems perfectly fine EXCEPT when I'm in my driveway (slight upward incline). I put the car in Drive and gently touch the accelerator to move the car into the garage - the engine races to about 2000 rpm even with my foot on the brake. I can only stop the engine revving by putting the car into neutral or turning the key to off.
Any help appreciated. Thanks.
#2865 of 3742 Re: California Smog Test Failure [carltech]
Mar 19, 2006 (10:23 am)
Did you ever find a solution to your Protege failing the CA smog test? I just tested mine yesterday (1996 model) and it failed. Mechanic said he would try to reset the memory on the computer. Final diagnosis is it that there is a computer problem that needs to be fixed by the dealer. Any thoughts or insights?
#2866 of 3742 Re: 2000 Mazda Protege Stalling Problem - Help! [shhzoe]
Mar 20, 2006 (6:20 am)
I have had the same problem. It seems to have been trouble with the electronics departing from the key. Have your mechanic check out the wiring diagrams. There should be three wires departing from the key and one input. One of the wires leads to the defrost, wipers; the second leads to the signal lights and the dash indicators (where my problem was, where yours probably will be), and the third for the stereo system. The second wire will also lead to the engine. The second wire (blue/white on my 98) is probably faulty. SO! What we did was install a by-pass from the input to the second wire's breaker, and everything has been fine since then. Have your mecanic check if the second wire is corroded. It may be something very inexpensive. If your car is having the same problem as mine (and so may be fixed the same way), youll have these "symptoms":
-car stalls, when try to restart, turns over but does not catch
-cannot restart for a period of time (mine was only 5-10 minutes)
-signal lights do not work, dash indicators do not work
-stereo works fine, dash lights work fine
From what I understood in your post, it seems like the same thing. Have mecanic check electrical diagrams surrounding key. Dont check out the gas filter until youve tried this. Way cheaper and probably the problem. Good luck!