Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 3:03 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege
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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#2776 of 3742 Loud and sputtering
Nov 11, 2005 (8:18 am)
I have a 2000 Protege LX w/ 170,000 miles on it... I've been very happy w/ the car, except when I lost the rear main at 65,000 but I had extended warrenty so it wasn't all that bad... However... about a year ago it blew a plug... The hubby (not a mechanic) tapped and drilled a sleeve into it and it worked.
About a month ago... I stopped at a stop sign, and when I went to take off... it sounded loud.. like muffler loud. It's not loud in nuetral, reverse, or when the clutch is in. You can rev the motor and it's just as quiet as any new car out there. It's only loud when you are in a driving forward gear. The hubby checked the muffler and all that stuff twice.. no holes or anythin.
A week later... The car started spitting and sputtering... idleing hard, hard. Did a tune up on it... it run beautiful (but loud) for a week. then it started spitting again... brought it to Auto Zone.. (those guys are GREAT!) tested the car... got message that the o2 sensor and gas flowage thing... changed one of the o2 sensors.. drove nice (but loud) for another week. Spitting again....?
Other than...bring it to a mazda dealer(lost my job) any suggestions?
#2777 of 3742 Re: PCM maybe? [urcrknmeup]
Nov 12, 2005 (3:54 pm)
I wish I had some information for you. I have the same problem with a 92 protoge. Fuel pump does not run when the key is turned on. If i jump it it runs fine. Now I am also not getting a spark. I replaced the igniter, no luck. Returned the igniter and bought a distributor, fuel pump still would not run , car fired, stalled and again no spark. Returned the distributor. I also can get the pump to run through the diag. port under the hood. Pump also runs after cranking and key is turned off. Read in code book that if one of the sensors is shorted it can shut down the ecm without blowing a fuse or setting a code. I am hoping since your post was in june that you found the problem. This is driving me nuts. Please respond either way. Thank you.
#2778 of 3742 93 protoge driving me to drink
Nov 12, 2005 (4:46 pm)
Ok, heres the scoop. I have a 93 protoge. Recently it would not start. I did not hear the fuel pump run when the key was on. Checked the pump it runs fine. Also jumped it from the diagnostic connector under the hood. Also not getting spark. replaced plugs and igniter and nothing returned igniter and bought a distributor, still no fuel pump, engine cranked started and stalled no spark again. returned distributor. Fuel pump runs for a split second after cranking and key is turned off. Read that if one of the sensors is shorted it can shut down the ecm and not blow a fuse or set a code. That is my next plan of attack is to check every sensor. I have read these symptoms on other posts, but have not found a reply. If you have anything please post or email me directly Mgcmnoptonline.net Thank you
#2779 of 3742 Re: Blown Head Gasket? Or somethign else... [adder]
Nov 15, 2005 (5:22 am)
I am starting to have the same problem with my car, What did you find out
All help would be greatly appreciated
#2780 of 3742 Re: Blown Head Gasket? Or somethign else... [paulg1]
Nov 15, 2005 (5:33 pm)
I haven't found the problem yet, but will post when I do.
#2781 of 3742 Re: Squealing Belts Solution/Cause [civiletti]
Nov 21, 2005 (5:28 pm)
An air conditioning compressor might be my next focus, but am dreading the expense. Any idea of the cost for this? Can it be tested before fixing/replacing? Or could I bypass the compressor pulley and just run my power steering with a shorter belt? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
#2782 of 3742 1992 front brakes
Nov 27, 2005 (9:01 am)
on the front disk brakes there are two metal collars with expandable rubber boots on each end that the bolt go through which hold the caliper on. the top one, on each side of the car, can easily be slid in and out so that i can relube it. however the bottom one on both sides of the car do not move more than just a little bit in and out. what is the secret to get the lower collars to move. have already soaked then in PB blaster.
#2783 of 3742 Re: 1992 front brakes [rblass]
Nov 28, 2005 (4:09 am)
If this is the setup:
there's probably corrosion in the bores of the calipers pinching the rubber bushings inward on the slide pins. Remove the calipers, work the bushings out, clean out any corrosion in the bores, coat the bores with silicone grease, then reassemble. Should be good to go.
#2784 of 3742 Re: Squealing Belts Solution/Cause [miket1]
Nov 29, 2005 (11:42 am)
I'm not looking at the pro engine now, but if eliminating the a/c compressor does not eliminate the tensioning mechanism of the belt, a shorter one circumventing the a/c should work. As far as a test, you might try removing the belt and turning the a/c pulley by hand to gauge resistance or spinning it with a motor [drill?] to detect any improper noise.
#2785 of 3742 '91 dies after few miles, starts after 5 minutes, then OK
Nov 29, 2005 (4:40 pm)
When my '91 Protege LX has sat a day or so, it will just die after going three or four miles. It will not start although the engine turns over as normal and dash lights are normal. I've pushed and pulled every wire I think around the engine.
Wait five minutes and it starts and then runs fine. And I can stop and start it without problem. Only when it sits for a day or so will I have the same problem.
Today it died. To experiment a little, I squirted some starter fluid into the air cleaner and it ran for a few seconds and stopped. I did that three times. Then after 5 minutes or so it ran fine. This means it is a fuel problem?
A helpful mechanic said with something like this he did not know how to figure it out. He said perhaps it could be the igniter or main relay. He said just start replacing things.
The distributer costs three or four hundred with maybe another hundred to install. I don't want to incur that expense it unless it is bad.
Can anyone help with this? Thanks in advance,
Huntington Beach, CA