Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 3:03 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege
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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#2763 of 3742 Re: Protoge horn goes off by itself [mothershelper]
Oct 27, 2005 (4:36 am)
I've had exactly the same problem. and it's begun just lately, with cold. See this, from Car Talk:
Dear Tom and Ray:
The temperature in my Minnesota town at 3 a.m. last night was minus 20 ... which was still not as cold as the letter of rejection I recently received from Harvard's Graduate School of Education. But I digress. At 3 a.m., I, along with others on my block, awoke to the blowing horn on my girlfriend's 1991 Mazda Protege. This is the third instance when the car's horn sounded at an odd hour of the night, and it doesn't stop until the car is warmed up and has been running for 20 minutes. After breaking my pen in a mad attempt to pry random fuses from the fuse box, I discovered that the horn fuse also powers the brake lights. So, removing the fuse is not a good option. What's the deal? -- Dave
Tom: I think it's your girlfriend's father, Dave. He's out there leaning on the horn.
Ray: There are two possibilities, and they both have to do with cold weather. Things shrink when they get cold, Dave. It's possible that during the coldest part of the coldest nights, your horn relay is closing on its own and making the horn blow.
Tom: The horn relay normally gets closed when you push the center pad on your steering wheel -- the relay then activates the horn under normal circumstances. But when relays get old, they can close by themselves. The relay is located under the dashboard, to the left of the steering wheel. So, the next time this happens, reach under there and start pulling out relays until the noise stops. Or, if you'd prefer, you can go buy a new horn relay for about $10 and pop it in there in advance.
Ray: If a new horn relay doesn't fix the problem, then it's probably the horn pad that's shrinking in the cold and completing the circuit. The horn pad on your steering wheel is separated from the contact ring by four little springs. Those springs might have worn out over the years, or it might just be so cold that the plastic horn pad itself is shrinking enough to make the contacts touch.
Tom: You can pop off that horn pad with a screwdriver, and you can probably find replacement parts at a junkyard. Just don't leave the car unattended, though, Dave. They might mistake it for "incoming."
#2764 of 3742 Re: Protoge horn goes off by itself [tdc1]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Oct 27, 2005 (8:04 am)
If this is an air-bag equipped car, I don't think prying off the horn pad with a screwdriver is a very good idea.
#2765 of 3742 Re: Protoge horn goes off by itself [Mr_Shiftright]
Oct 27, 2005 (6:45 pm)
Good point. That year Protege doesn't have an airbag in the steering wheel, though. At least my 1992 doesn't. And it turns out that, at least on the '92, the horn pad isn't pried off, but comes off easily by removing three screws from down underneath.
Also, for anyone who needs to do this repair, there are no springs to go bad, but instead a buffer of what looks to be 1/4" foam that simply collapses a bit over time. It's easy to repair; I did it today. It cost me less than a dollar to repair (assuming it is repaired!), and took maybe an hour.
a) Remove the three screws from behind (underneath) the horn pad housing.
b) Pull off the horn pad (triangular-shaped center with logo on it).
c) With the housing then exposed, you'll then see a triangular copper sheet. Remove the smaller screws that hold it in place. Carefully.
d) Lift out gently, just a couple of inches,. DO NOT try to remove it all the way yet.
e) You'll see a wire running from the copper plate to a connection in the base of the metal housing. Pull the pressure clip at the base end of the wire off its connection (take care to leave the connection to the copper plate intact).
At that point the plate and what it's joined to can be removed. You'll see that you have a sandwich made of the thin copper plate that sits directly under the horn pad, a sheet of foam about 1/4" think, and the thicker copper plate underneath that, everything held together with two little plastic rivets.
IF you can locate 1/4" foam, the repair is as simple as can be. The foam is not easy to find at crafts stores and the like. You may have to go to an electronics store and beg for leftover packaging material.
f) Pop out the plastic rivets that hold the sandwich together ( I did this by pushing with a plastic spoon, so as not to break the rivets).
g) Very gently remove the thin copper plate from the foam. They're attached to each other with spray adhesive that's meant to give way; but still... be careful.
h) Use the old foam buffer as a template/stencil for drawing outline of the same same holes in the new foam.
i) Cut out the holes in the new foam, and make sure they match the ones in the old foam. The electrical wire will need its hole, too.
j) Put the sandwich back together, rivets last. It's worth the little extra expense to use spray adhesive for the three parts; don't spray it on thick, and let it dry a couple of minutes before sandwiching everything together (too soon and they're stuck for life; you just need a tacky surface to preclude slipping, not a solid bond).
k) Reattach the electrical wire to the base with its clip.
#2766 of 3742 Re: Squealing Belts Solution/Cause [miket1]
Oct 28, 2005 (8:45 am)
How about the air conditioning compressor?
#2767 of 3742 Re: Overdrive Off Gone [cheeshead6]
Oct 28, 2005 (12:09 pm)
I had the same problem with my '02 protege. I bought it in July and then noticed the button didn't work. It didn't seem like a big deal, as the car was always in overdrive. However, the car was still under the manufacturer's warranty, so I took it in to be fixed. The dealership said that the overdrive switch was broken, so they replaced it. Light works fine now and I can turn the OD on and off. So, it is more of a glitch than a transmission problem.
Oct 28, 2005 (1:52 pm)
djan, i've been having the same problem with my 2000 Protege LX, 83K miles... for the last month or two, when a brake to a sudden stop, i stall or sputter to a near stall...
i "feel" like my gas mileage has been poorer in recent months as well, but i have no measurement of that being the case and i don't know if it's a related symptom.
#2769 of 3742 My 93 protege wont start when its warm
Oct 30, 2005 (4:26 pm)
When my car is cold it will start just fine, but when it warms up and i shut it off it wont start back up until it cools down. The engine will turn over, but it wont start up. It seems to flood. I replaced the fuel relay sensor. I tested the Electronic Fuel Injection, and it works fine. help please!!!
#2770 of 3742 Re: My 93 protege wont start when its warm [trock2]
Nov 01, 2005 (4:31 pm)
How exactly did you test the electronic fuel injection?
#2771 of 3742 Re: autonomous [nyccarguy]
Nov 05, 2005 (9:31 pm)
I have a similar problem, noise when in R or D, not in P or N.
Did you get any diagnosys from the dealer ?
Nov 06, 2005 (7:38 am)
You might check your coolant temperature sensor. If it has failed and thinks the engine is cold at all times then it would inject way too much fuel for warm starts (which would cause flooding).