Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 3:03 AM
You are in the Mazda Protege
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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#2639 of 3742 New A/C Unit
Jul 22, 2005 (10:47 am)
I had a new A/C compressor and cluth installed in 2002 for $516.95, which included tax, recharge, and all fees. The compressor/clutch was $360.00 from Mazda. They told me that they could not get a new clutch by itself, hence I got the new compressor with new clutch. I had the work done at a reputable tire/brake/cooling shop. Labor came to $111.95. Works fine. Hope this helps.
'95 Protege LX, 5 spd., 185K miles
#2640 of 3742 Loss of power.
Jul 26, 2005 (6:58 am)
Check plugs and plug wires first. New plug wires should have an impedance of only 2 k-ohms. Mine were reading around 6kohms when I replaced them at around 60k miles, and I didn't notice any loss of power.
Check plug gaps (check your manual...I don't recall the proper gap range), and the connections between them and your wires.
Check your air filter. A dirty filter will noticeable drop your power.
After that, I'd take it to a shop. Faults in the fuel system, emission controls, exhaust and other systems could cause loss of power. A good shop manual will offer a trouble-shooting table that you can reference by symptom.
Jul 26, 2005 (7:07 am)
I'd take it to a shop. Those lights come on for a few seconds every time you start your car. They stay on if the engine doesn't run and the ignition is in the "on" or "run" position.
It could be as simple as a dead battery, or it could not. That's the first thing I'd check (and have the charging system checked at the same time). Old batteries, even if they seem to provide enough voltage when checked with a multimeter, often can't provide enough current, which can lead to loss of power, then non-starts. Between discharges, they recover a little, so that may explain why you were able to start once after letting it rest a couple of hours. Hopefully, that's all it is, as it would be a simple and inexpensive solution.
See if someone can scan your car's computer for any error codes. Some auto parts stores offer code reading as a free service. A shop may charge you for 0.5-1 hour of labor to do the same thing. Any logged codes may give the mechanic a place to start looking, but they also need to know any symptoms you can report.
#2642 of 3742 Rough Idle / Running
Jul 26, 2005 (8:42 am)
Hello All. I have a 1995 Protoge with 150K. Its a fantastic car and I've had it for a year. I've put just over 10k on it and have loved every minute. However, at this point, its running / idleing very rough. Did it suddenly the other day. Very hot here in Indiana. I've read through all the forums dealing with the 1.5L DOHC. Its seems that this could be the EGR valve, the O2 sensors or the MAF/MAS. Could someone help me narrow this down? Are there specific / suttle differences between the failure of the 3 different items above?
Put new plugs / wires / cap / rotor on the car about 5K ago. Rechecked that. Looks great.
The car will start and idle somewhat rought, only slightly rough at idle. If you drive it REALLY, REALLY easy, it won't jump and jerk too much, however, anything more than very slight throttle and it feels like wet plug wires! Its REALLY bad. Not as bad when you first start, much worse after the engine is warmed up.
Also, I can get it rolling and at a certain speed / throttle it will surge.
I reset the computer (disconnected battery cable) then reconnected thinking Check Engine light would come back on. It did not.
The car has never used any oil or smoked so I'm betting against the EGR valve.
Anybody have any experience with this? Also, if the Check Engine light comes back on, how do I read the codes without an analyzer?
#2643 of 3742 Re: Rough Idle / Running [gbowles]
Jul 27, 2005 (1:57 pm)
I'll second the hot weather. I'm down in Evansville, IN.
As far as trouble codes with the check engine light, you will need a code reader for the '95 as it is OBD2. Auto Zone stores will do this for free. They will also print out the possible causes for the code light and try to sell you a part that may or may not fix the problem. It is one place to start the troubleshooting. Another option is ALLDATA on the internet. For $15 you get everything Mazda has reported to its dealers concerning TSB's and the fixes for them. Also, the Haynes manual is pretty good for some of the repair procedures for this car. You can either buy it for $15 of find it at many libraries. And you have probably seen the link to the Protege5 shop manual.
As far as you specific idle problems, I can't say for sure. On my '95, I replaced the O2 sensors at around 100K. This was in response to a check engine light. I replaced my EGR valve at around 150K. This was in response to pinging upon acceleration. Just recently I replaced the neutral switch that was bad and caused a low/eratic idle and the check engine light to come on. I have not had a surging problem. I currently have a bit of a shudder problem in higher gears at lower end RPM's caused by my clutch finally wearing out. Is your car a manual or auto? ALLDATA shows many more issues with the auto than the 5 spd.
Manuals will specify the tolerances for many of these sensors so you can check them with a multi-meter before spending any money replacing them. The secondary O2 sensor is particularly expensive. Also, the EGR valve gets caked with carbon deposits over time and it's easier to replace with a new one than clean it out.
#2644 of 3742 I'll second that EGR comment.
Jul 28, 2005 (12:38 pm)
Cleaning it out can be a pain as little its of carbon still fling around and jam it after a cleaning. I've had to bring my car back 3 times for bits of carbon jamming the EGR valve after the cleaning.
A new one would've only cost about $100 more. In retrospect, I think I would've replaced it. Even though they didn't charge for the subsequent cleanings, and drove me back and forth to work, it was still a hassle.
#2645 of 3742 Re: Mazda protege SE 1992 won't start [mycar70]
Aug 01, 2005 (4:59 pm)
I am having the exact same problem with my 94 protege dx. Have youe figured this out yet?
#2646 of 3742 Lurching Protege
Aug 01, 2005 (6:28 pm)
1995 Mazda Protege. Standard transmission. When getting going in the morning the car lurches violently forward and backward in first gear. I immediately shift to second gear and not nearly as bad if nothing at all. Once I get going the lurching stops. After about 5 minutes of driving, no more lurching at all. This is fun for my two year old in the back seat but I know better! Any advice?
#2647 of 3742 00 protege helppppppppp
Aug 01, 2005 (8:03 pm)
i put in 10w-40 oil tonight and now my car shakes and goes put put put and the check engine light is on. what is wrong and am i going to have to drain it and stuff?? ahhhh i dont know what to do. young kids like me shouldnt have cars ha
#2648 of 3742 Re: Lurching Protege [jonl1]
Aug 02, 2005 (3:50 am)
How many miles are on the car? Could it be clutch time?