Last post on Sep 19, 2013 at 3:03 AM
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Mazda Protege, Sedan
#2635 of 3742 Mazda protege SE 1992 won't start
Jul 19, 2005 (4:48 pm)
I have a 1992 Mazda Protege SE that I bought 1 month ago, two days ago when I started my car down the road it was pulling back as if it wanted to stop untill I changed from D to 2nd( it is an automatic) it stopped.
But when I parked it at my destination and decided I wanted park it well, it would not start. I left it there till after 2 hours came back and tried to start the engine again and it was working, next day same thing. Now this morning I start it, took it off and then started again now it won't start and since this morning it has not started at all.
Would that be only the engine or maby not enough oil,even though a few days ago a gas attendant checked for me and the oil was at a good level.
The only lights that came on when I start is on the Right side all the usually lights comes on, like: BELTS,BRAKE,BATTERY, OIL ; the Left side has a picture that says CHECK
This is my first car that my husband bought for me and I do not know much about under hood but I'm ready to learn everything, so that in the future I know what too look for.
#2636 of 3742 Learning about your Protege
Jul 20, 2005 (12:52 am)
This is my first car ... and I do not know much about under hood but I'm ready to learn everything, so that in the future I know what too look for.
Well in that case you have a great tool, the online service manual for the Protege at http://protege5.ugly.net/
When the car was purchased did your husband have it checked by a mechanic you trust? You may want to do this in order to ensure everything is in working order before you get any more surprises.
#2638 of 3742 Re: Difficulty of repair: water pump 1995 Protege? [gew95001]
Jul 21, 2005 (6:48 am)
It turns out that it was not the water pump at all. There were actually two problems. First, the upper radiator hose had been replaced by somebody for the previous owner and they had not pushed it all the way on - it was leaking coolant. Easily fixed. That did not explain the ringing or whirring sounds though.
I discovered what these were the hard way. As I was driving down the highway I suddenly heard a belt squealing. I pulled off to the breakdown lane and the engine quit, but not before some smoke had issued from under the hood. The lower belt (for the AC) was almost off, and had been the source of the squealing. The auto shop told me that the AC compressor had seized, and that it would be a $1050 repair. I told them not to do it. Without the belt the car will run fine, but I don't have power steering, and in the '95 Protege that means you'd better have some good upper body strength to turn the wheel at low speeds.
I've done a little research comparing the auto body shop's quote to costs of parts and found that there were big differences. They told me that a replacement compressor (without the clutch, for which they would charge me separately) would be $595. They did not specify if that was new or remanufactured. They did say (after I told them not to do the repair) that the only other option was a used compressor off an old Protege, which they were not sure they could find. A remanufactured compressor (with the clutch) costs $248 (for a factory model) or $395 (for one made by another company). That's a big difference from the $595, especially when you take into account the clutch.
I'm going to try to find out how reasonable their quote is (it just doesn't sound right) before I do anything.
#2639 of 3742 New A/C Unit
Jul 22, 2005 (10:47 am)
I had a new A/C compressor and cluth installed in 2002 for $516.95, which included tax, recharge, and all fees. The compressor/clutch was $360.00 from Mazda. They told me that they could not get a new clutch by itself, hence I got the new compressor with new clutch. I had the work done at a reputable tire/brake/cooling shop. Labor came to $111.95. Works fine. Hope this helps.
'95 Protege LX, 5 spd., 185K miles
#2640 of 3742 Loss of power.
Jul 26, 2005 (6:58 am)
Check plugs and plug wires first. New plug wires should have an impedance of only 2 k-ohms. Mine were reading around 6kohms when I replaced them at around 60k miles, and I didn't notice any loss of power.
Check plug gaps (check your manual...I don't recall the proper gap range), and the connections between them and your wires.
Check your air filter. A dirty filter will noticeable drop your power.
After that, I'd take it to a shop. Faults in the fuel system, emission controls, exhaust and other systems could cause loss of power. A good shop manual will offer a trouble-shooting table that you can reference by symptom.
Jul 26, 2005 (7:07 am)
I'd take it to a shop. Those lights come on for a few seconds every time you start your car. They stay on if the engine doesn't run and the ignition is in the "on" or "run" position.
It could be as simple as a dead battery, or it could not. That's the first thing I'd check (and have the charging system checked at the same time). Old batteries, even if they seem to provide enough voltage when checked with a multimeter, often can't provide enough current, which can lead to loss of power, then non-starts. Between discharges, they recover a little, so that may explain why you were able to start once after letting it rest a couple of hours. Hopefully, that's all it is, as it would be a simple and inexpensive solution.
See if someone can scan your car's computer for any error codes. Some auto parts stores offer code reading as a free service. A shop may charge you for 0.5-1 hour of labor to do the same thing. Any logged codes may give the mechanic a place to start looking, but they also need to know any symptoms you can report.
#2642 of 3742 Rough Idle / Running
Jul 26, 2005 (8:42 am)
Hello All. I have a 1995 Protoge with 150K. Its a fantastic car and I've had it for a year. I've put just over 10k on it and have loved every minute. However, at this point, its running / idleing very rough. Did it suddenly the other day. Very hot here in Indiana. I've read through all the forums dealing with the 1.5L DOHC. Its seems that this could be the EGR valve, the O2 sensors or the MAF/MAS. Could someone help me narrow this down? Are there specific / suttle differences between the failure of the 3 different items above?
Put new plugs / wires / cap / rotor on the car about 5K ago. Rechecked that. Looks great.
The car will start and idle somewhat rought, only slightly rough at idle. If you drive it REALLY, REALLY easy, it won't jump and jerk too much, however, anything more than very slight throttle and it feels like wet plug wires! Its REALLY bad. Not as bad when you first start, much worse after the engine is warmed up.
Also, I can get it rolling and at a certain speed / throttle it will surge.
I reset the computer (disconnected battery cable) then reconnected thinking Check Engine light would come back on. It did not.
The car has never used any oil or smoked so I'm betting against the EGR valve.
Anybody have any experience with this? Also, if the Check Engine light comes back on, how do I read the codes without an analyzer?
#2643 of 3742 Re: Rough Idle / Running [gbowles]
Jul 27, 2005 (1:57 pm)
I'll second the hot weather. I'm down in Evansville, IN.
As far as trouble codes with the check engine light, you will need a code reader for the '95 as it is OBD2. Auto Zone stores will do this for free. They will also print out the possible causes for the code light and try to sell you a part that may or may not fix the problem. It is one place to start the troubleshooting. Another option is ALLDATA on the internet. For $15 you get everything Mazda has reported to its dealers concerning TSB's and the fixes for them. Also, the Haynes manual is pretty good for some of the repair procedures for this car. You can either buy it for $15 of find it at many libraries. And you have probably seen the link to the Protege5 shop manual.
As far as you specific idle problems, I can't say for sure. On my '95, I replaced the O2 sensors at around 100K. This was in response to a check engine light. I replaced my EGR valve at around 150K. This was in response to pinging upon acceleration. Just recently I replaced the neutral switch that was bad and caused a low/eratic idle and the check engine light to come on. I have not had a surging problem. I currently have a bit of a shudder problem in higher gears at lower end RPM's caused by my clutch finally wearing out. Is your car a manual or auto? ALLDATA shows many more issues with the auto than the 5 spd.
Manuals will specify the tolerances for many of these sensors so you can check them with a multi-meter before spending any money replacing them. The secondary O2 sensor is particularly expensive. Also, the EGR valve gets caked with carbon deposits over time and it's easier to replace with a new one than clean it out.
#2644 of 3742 I'll second that EGR comment.
Jul 28, 2005 (12:38 pm)
Cleaning it out can be a pain as little its of carbon still fling around and jam it after a cleaning. I've had to bring my car back 3 times for bits of carbon jamming the EGR valve after the cleaning.
A new one would've only cost about $100 more. In retrospect, I think I would've replaced it. Even though they didn't charge for the subsequent cleanings, and drove me back and forth to work, it was still a hassle.