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Mazda Protege Maintenance and Repair

3738 messages,  Last post on Apr 23, 2013 at 10:59 AM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda Protege, Sedan

Messages Page 256 of 374

#2550 of 3738 Used car: Pulls to the left [jcnadon] by autonomous

Jun 10, 2005 (4:54 am)

Replying to: jcnadon (Jun 09, 2005 3:22 pm)
recently purchased a used 2001 Mazda Protege ES....on the highway with elevated speeds the car pulls hard to the left...it is very hard to keep the car straight.
 
Sounds like a wheel alignment may be needed. Also, check the state of the tires and look to see if they all match (same size).
 
When you bought the car did you get it inspected at an independent garage? If not, it may still be a good idea for your peace of mind.

#2551 of 3738 Re: 1995 Protege, Automatic, BUCKING IN FIRST GEA [joe390] by lifeisrich1

Jun 11, 2005 (3:08 pm)

Replying to: joe390 (Jun 07, 2005 8:06 am)
Take a peek at your motor mounts. I had some "bucking-like" symptoms on my 91 Maz Prot LX in first gear - found bad motor mount on front (bet engine and radiator) and on top right. Ended up replacing all four of them and the Protege is now a little sweetheart.

#2553 of 3738 Re: Extreme pull to the left [jcnadon] by lifeisrich1

Jun 11, 2005 (3:35 pm)

Replying to: jcnadon (Jun 09, 2005 3:22 pm)
Sometimes in a tire a belt can start to separate internally and it is hard to see but can cause a pull. Swap the two tires on the same axel and if the pull follows the tire to the other side, replace that tire. Good luck!

#2554 of 3738 Re: Replacement Muffler [jrdwyer] by lifeisrich1

Jun 11, 2005 (5:15 pm)

Replying to: jrdwyer (May 03, 2005 7:54 pm)
You may have solved your May 3 post by now, but for the future, muffler holes can be repaired with fiberglass resin and matting. Epoxy would work as well but with fiberglass it is easier to cover a very large area. Clean the muffler surface a round the holes, paint on resin with two or three inches extra around the hole, lay on two or three precut pieces of mat and paint on a little extra resin until the mat is soaked through. I've used this repair a number of times - the fiberglass does not rust and just lasts forever. This repair is less successful if the muffler is close to the engine because of heat. When the muffler is toward the rear of the tail pipe, it works well. Good luck!
Rich

#2555 of 3738 Re: Extreme pull to the left [jcnadon] by lifeisrich1 by capriracer

Jun 12, 2005 (4:36 am)

FYI - As a general rule separated tires don't pull, they vibrate. However a tire can be the source of a pull and frequently the wear pattern is the true cause.
 
Hope this helps.

#2556 of 3738 Re: Replacement Muffler [lifeisrich1] by jrdwyer

Jun 12, 2005 (10:13 am)

Replying to: lifeisrich1 (Jun 11, 2005 5:15 pm)
Thanks for the idea. I have used fiberglass matt and resin in the past for fiberglass boats, but never thought of using it on metal. I suppose this only works for small holes or a backer plate is necessary. That was our experience with boats.
 
The muffler flange was too rusted out for repairs. A bad design, in my opinion. The new Bosal muffler I installed was easy to do and works well and should last longer due to a better flange.
Joe

#2557 of 3738 PCM maybe? by urcrknmeup

Jun 12, 2005 (10:21 am)

Have a '91 Protege ... just wouldn't start one day. Fuel pump runs when you jump the diagnostic port, EFI and circuit opening/fuel pump relays work and Ohm out correctly. Started hoping it was the timing belt but looks good and turns the camshaft fine. Have compression and spark (although suspiciously weak looking spark ... have new wires, coil, cap and rotor and plugs). Only thing I found which puzzles me is that at the connector port under the seat to the pump, I only get about 6.5 volts with the key on. It should be full battery voltage. I'm not getting any initial prime pulse or fuel pump noise while cranking .. only during the diagnostic jump. I'm about ready to try to start it while jumped just to see if it will start at all. Could this be the PCM module? I'm about to do a fuel pressure test but this has me questioning the fuel pump operation.

#2558 of 3738 Re: Squealing Belts Solution/Cause [grwillia] by rdl2001

Jun 12, 2005 (10:49 am)

Replying to: grwillia (Jun 05, 2005 7:10 pm)
As best that I can recall the problem began only AFTER I had changed the water pump (was changing timing belt so I figured good time to replace water pump). Used a rebuilt part and squealing did not start until a few weeks (months?) later. I assumed it was the alternator bearing because the alternator pulley felt hot after running it (from cold) for a few minutes. I therefor changed the alternator with a rebuilt unit. It didn't stop the squeal and I actually had the bearings changed on the rebuilt alternator- the rebuild shop thought I was crazy. Anyhow, it continued to make noise/break belts. There was also a buildup of fine rubber powder at the alternator which I attributed to the slippage when it squealed.
        
Recently I checked pulley alignment with a steel ruler-there is enough space on the outer edge of the inner crankshaft pulley to position the ruler on two points at its edge. It indicated the the waterpump pulley was about1/16 inch off-center (towards the engine block). Similarly, the alternator-crankshaft pulley alignment checked out OK. I used steel 1/4 inch (ID) washers on the inside surface- it is easiest to "glue" them in place with a little silicone RTV. I also changed the bolts to slightly longer ones (6 mm stainless steel from Lowes- I just love stainless) but be careful that they don't foul on the water pump housing. I also added spring lock washers on the outside surface.
 
Did it work? It seems to. The alternator pulley doesn't get hot after only a few minutes-there isn't a recollection of the fine rubber powder-and the has been no squeal. Only time will tell for sure.
 
Only additional suggestion would be to make a real shim. As it stands the waterpump pulley is not mating with the water pump shaft mating surface. Rather, it is elevated the thickness of the washers. I think it would be better to make l large shim with a center hole and three mounting holes- you could use the pulley itself as a template. I was thinking of using either copper or aluminum sheet but the Lowes didn't have any. I'm sure I've seen such material in an ACE hardware but there aren't any near where I live.
 
Hope that this has been helpful.
 
RDL

#2559 of 3738 Re: Extreme pull to the left [jcnadon] by rdl2001

Jun 12, 2005 (11:06 am)

Replying to: jcnadon (Jun 09, 2005 3:22 pm)
I would also check the brakes. Visually inspect the front pads then have some one press on brake pedal while you are looking Would also bleed front lines. You say it only happens at high speed- I would chech at lower speeds, e.g., on deserted road at 25-2-30 mph, really hit the brakes (like a panic stop). I would be surprised if it doesn't pull like it does at higher speed.
 
RDL

Messages Page 256 of 374

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